Lolz^ i bet justin is doing this

Sorry Jus, not being lazy I've looked thru all that and still am not sure. Which is the only reason I asked you. Here's the pic's to help with figuring it out it looks to be 14mmx1.5 to me. I checked on the hex thing and doesn't seem to be anything.

Remove the hex fitting from the top of the turbo. Boom. 12mm x 1.5.

What you're seeing is an adapter to go from 12mm x 1.5 to 3/8" inverted-flare line.

Ok got it bro sorry for the confusion, just wanna make sure I do things right. I know what was throwing me off, when I first looked at it I swear it looked welded on but it's off now and new fitting is on. Thx again for clearing it up bro

Think I found the answer to the Holset oil drain problems. Justin would you think this will work with our cars?

Flexible Turbo Oil Drain

I contacted these guy to ask them the I.D. of the drain hole. They told me its the same size as the drain hole on the HX40. They told me they run them on all their Holset turbos and never had a issue. Hope this helps.

Right-on. Use that and connect it to a 1G or 2G drain at the pan with a piece of silicone hose. It appears to be a good solution- I just wish it were a little shorter as the overall length appears to be close to what our entire oil drain is.

At least it's metal, and metal can't kink....unless you're a complete failure as a mechanic.

I'm pretty sure you could cut it to length.

You could, but only the very end of the line will accept a hose being slid over and clamped. The rest of the line is corrugated, so it would be quite difficult to slide hose over and even more difficult getting it to seal.

Quick question. I have a hx35 that refuses to keep its snap ring on the compressor cover. I get the ring seated, mount the turbo on the car go for a drive boost it once, go to boost again and I can hear the compressor wheel rubbing on the cover. I've done this twice now and I'm sure a new compressor wheel is in my future, along with a rebalance. Im beginning to be very annoyed. Please help!

Never had such a problem- obviously you're not getting it fully seated around the entire radius or something. Make sure the snap ring as well as the groove it goes into are clean and free of corrosion....and that's it.

I guess a wet sand on both pieces wouldn't be a bad idea?

I don't think you need to be quite that anal; maybe as long as there's no rough rusty scale on the snap ring and the groove in the cover is free from oxidized aluminum. Nothing a drill with a wire wheel can't handle.

genegoesfast said:

Quick question. I have a hx35 that refuses to keep its snap ring on the compressor cover. I get the ring seated, mount the turbo on the car go for a drive boost it once, go to boost again and I can hear the compressor wheel rubbing on the cover. I've done this twice now and I'm sure a new compressor wheel is in my future, along with a rebalance. Im beginning to be very annoyed. Please help!

Click to expand...

I might be that you are not pushing the compressor cover on hard enough, and that it has not seated. It is hard to get it past the compressor cover seal, at times.

This thread was just resolved, and he had the same problem you do.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/413045-snap-ring-pops-out-turbo-after-rebuild.html

I hope this helps. Good luck!

As said above you just aren't getting it seated good enough. Mine is bent to hell and is only seat on about 1/2 of the ring and it holds it on fine with no boost leaks...not ideal but just giving you some reference

Justin do you know of a place to order a new snap ring btw? Or a used one? The dodge dealer doesn't list it at all and I went to a cummins store and they didn't have one either

91-gsx said:

It is hard to get it past the compressor cover seal, at times.

Click to expand...

Less than 1% of Holsets I've rebuilt actually have an o-ring behind the compressor cover. Most are just flange on flange, and getting the snap ring to seat is generally retarded-simple.

JusMX141 said:

Less than 1% of Holsets I've rebuilt actually have an o-ring behind the compressor cover. Most are just flange on flange, and getting the snap ring to seat is generally retarded-simple.

Click to expand...

I did not know that. Do you put a dab of RTV on the flanges, or are they machined perfectly enough to not leak?

Thanks Justin!

What do you think of my first port job?

Anything else I can do to it?

Clean it up with a finer bit, then sand it with a sanding drum and it will look like this:

It's smoothe to the touch..Well pretty much..Nothing sharp when you feel it..

Umm,Yeah I will sand it down to be smoother looking like that..

But as far as my first time.Did I port it enough? I also took a few bits off so the wg opens over 90 degrees.

That was a complete waste of time- the actuator will only open the flapper about 3/8".

Looks fine otherwise.

Well it took 5 min.It already opened about 89 degrees.I just trimmed a tad off so it went farther.

Waste of time,nah.It was fun.

Thank you sir.

91-gsx said:

I did not know that. Do you put a dab of RTV on the flanges, or are they machined perfectly enough to not leak?

Thanks Justin!

Click to expand...

This^ I'm interested if I can run without the o ring?

Absolutely. Just make sure the cover is where it needs to be before you seal it with RTV because once the sealant dries you're not clocking the cover anymore.

I just got this turbo from a friend as payment for helping him rebuild his 1G. Really cool deal but big problem(s): All he knows about the turbo is that's it's a GT28R, and he ran it on his CRX without any type of filter or screen so needless to say the compressor wheel looks like its been used for target practice with a pellet gun. I did my best to measure the wheel so I know what kind of replacement to get but was hoping you could check out the pics before I order anything for it.


I don't know if the pics will come through - sending this from my phone but thanks for having a look.

Check the back of the wheel, there should be a Garrett part number. If there's not, contact a Garrett distributor with the part number on the turbo's CHRA tag.

If there's no number on the wheel or the tag, you'll have to give them the specs....and count on sending this to a shop that can balance this unit on a VSR once you swap the wheels if it's indeed a ball bearing turbo.