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Cyclone mani + major boost leak + FPS solenoid and misc stuff

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No worries Glenn. Sounds like they got you on some good stuff. LOL

I'm going to look for a FPR solenoid to use instead of the one that I currently have. Although my system seems to work when testing it from under the hood, it might not be behaving properly between shifts or frequent transitions between vacuum and boost.

This thread has been very helpful. :thumb:
 
First I have to say. That dyno chart is nutts! Torque and HP intersect at 500 with more torque than horsepower untill that point. That car must be a blast to drive.
Anyways, Here's a picture I found on another forum while i was searching for information on the Cyclone intake set up. Dont want any trouble, just putting it out there to help others out.
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Glenn, let us know how your set up works out for you. I'm starting to think that I may need to find a .63 a/r housing for my HX35. :hellyeah:
 
^^^Thanks for the pic. :) It sounds like Glenn switched his around to operate in the way pictured and got his performance back. This leaves little doubt for me that this is the correct way and that I've been running mine incorrectly all this time. :ohdamn:

I wonder if the valves were failing to close back up after opening for the first time (until motor is shut down)? I should know hopefully late next week.
 
romeen keep us posted, i do imagine they were closing, what i think wasn't happening is they werne't openinge EVER (mine weren't anyway) when i had the vac lines backwards that is.. now the car is a whole new beast again. The sametop end i had previousely and a much morelinear, smoother and torqueier powerband that pulls hard right off the bottom (no lugging aoiund at under 3k RPMlike i wasuseto before on my setup)

I'm very happy and that pic is how mine is now setup

I had to do a LOT of driving today and kept the laotop on and logging almost 90% of the time and one thing i noticed is that even with the new HGE FMIC (compared tomy lkast one anyway) I was getting heat soak at the TB elbow of about 100*F after a 20 minute spirited interstate and side road journey, so i think i'[m putting the methanol injection back on either pre-turbo or immediately postturbo., I mean it's there, wired in and i deifnitely don't need the antli-lag i was using that put put for now (just don't gain anything with this setup it spolsso fast to start with) SO i wanna spray some HEET in there and see if i can get intake temps down t about 50* F on a 90* ambient day like today :D (got the toys might as well hook em up :D )
 
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I'll be adding the methanol injection pre-turbo here in a few minutes as well as starting in on a few other projects i've had brewin in my mind for a year or more (re-routing the WG and adding a custom aluminum muffler)

The more i drive with the dual runners actuating properly the happier i am to have installed this manifold. I would have to say that anyone running a regular 1g/2g manifold that says the cyclone is a waste of time clearly hasn't been in one operating correctly or been for a ride with one installed at all... When it wasn't operating right,i'll agree i was dissapointed in the top end but swore it was something i sjust needed to figuire out (and it was LOL)

There's really no easy way to describe the benefits to make some one really understand what can be gained from this thing.. My 58mm HX-40 compressor on hx35 turbine in a .63 a/r housing already spooled fast and made good low end but the gains are almost unreal, and this is AFTER i dialed the cams in for all top end power. Anywhere around 3700 RPM and less afewmonths back was about useless in traffic for passing or doing more than a cruise, now i have enough pull there to avoid downshifts, the turbo starts spooling so much earlier thatyou'd have a hard tiome believing the thing is as large as it is..

I'm not so sure how effective it would be on a smaller turbo like a 16g since they spool so fast anyway, nor do i think it would be of any benefit to some one running a GT4202 sized turbo, but for all of us guys in the mid range with anything from a 50 trim toi'd say something about like a GT35/37 could greatly benefit from a properly fuinctioning cyclone manifold.. that is of course UNLESS you're one opf the guys that's got the purdy sheetmetal intakemanifolds (hmmmm..... dual runner SMIM :) )
 
I think I know the answer to this but just wanting to confirm. My Summit RPM switch is NOT a window type switch. It's activated above the set rpm and then deactivates when it drops back down below the set point.

I've noticed that Link users are using a separate deactivation point. Is this just because of how Link works? I don't think a window type of switch is needed, is it?
 
Romeen, yes your window switch will work just fine, they are just using the parameters that link uses/provides.

One thing i'm noticing is that now that i'm getting it tuned in i'm having an issue in the very top end.. eiter i've lost a little power up in the 7k to 8500k range or the torque increase in the lower areas (4000 to 6500 or so) is so much higher that it makes the topend feel weeker.

I cna't figure it out LOL I've also got a randome spark blow out that happens once in third gear (sometimes once in 2nd) when i'm at 30psi on stock ignition :(

I've played with timing, AFR"s and everythign else and can't solve the issue (maybe it's just the weather LOL who knows)

Anyway, thoughts, suggestions, or whatever, just thought i'd note the difference here
 
I installed a proper FPR solenoid. I also swapped out the Dodge Dakota vacuum canister for a larger one pulled off of another Mitsubishi. It looks kind of similar to the factory white one used with the Cyclone. One very noticeable difference now is how fast the valves open and close. When activated, they practically snap open and then close just as abruptly. On my previous setup (incorrect solenoid) it would open and close much slower, especially when closing. Haven't driven it yet but will later today.

Dodge Dakota vs Mitsubishi Canister
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Glad you're making progress.. without a reseviour at all mine shut and opensinstantly as well (since there's not chamber or stored vacum to disperse) only the vacum in the lines an actuator need to be expelled or re-filled so it happens very fast.

I"m definitely not done with the dual runner manifold and will keep progressing with it, my next movesare to either make a sheet metal plenum with morevolume or make an entirely new manifold that has the benefits of a normalk SMIM but has a secondary set of long and smalkl diameter runners that are used in the same way (i'm looking for more top end than either this or the 1g turbo manifold can deliver right now :D )
 
Anywhere around 3700 RPM and less afewmonths back was about useless in traffic for passing or doing more than a cruise, now i have enough pull there to avoid downshifts, the turbo starts spooling so much earlier thatyou'd have a hard tiome believing the thing is as large as it is..

I'm not so sure how effective it would be on a smaller turbo like a 16g since they spool so fast anyway, nor do i think it would be of any benefit to some one running a GT4202 sized turbo, but for all of us guys in the mid range with anything from a 50 trim toi'd say something about like a GT35/37 could greatly benefit from a properly fuinctioning cyclone manifold..
Well I'm hoping you are wrong about the big turbo possibly being an issue because I will be using this with my 300sx BorgWarner88-75 turbo(S363) as I can see where it would benefit all over the place as I also have a true twin scroll turbine and dual wastegate mani setup which should also be a plus. We will see and all this info is very very helpful thanks!:thumb: Also I had pmd you Glenn. Also seems like keltalon is having great success with the big turb and cyclone mani on his DSM so thats encouraging.
 
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