Double Check the battery. Why go drop 100 dollar bill on a battery, if it is still charging....? If you still, just want to change it out and be on the safe side down the road. Either A. a stock 86 Group or B. RED TOP/YELLOW TOP OPTIMA.

Difference in the two. Red Top = for regular use and some acc. upgrades. Yellow Top = Deep cycle + Charging, + a better overall with a lot of ACC. UPGRADES.

Personally I wouldn't waste money on an optima. If u want a bad ass battery with the best warranty around, get a diehard platinum or the new agm gold series diehard. They are about 10-15 bux more than an optima, have more cca, more reserve power, better design, better reviews and a longer warranty. 8.5 year total warranty, first 4 years are full replacement. Don't remember the warranty for the new agm golds. And no, I'm not a sears sales person, I just put platinums in everything I buy and have no complaints about them. I had 1 optima, and will never make that mistake again.

Just my 2c. Also, u might want to do an amp draw test to see if anything is draining on the battery.

Throw the thing on a charger overnight and let it fully charge..

Next time, if you're gonna let it sit two weeks, disconnect the negative cable.

Then, if it's dead after that length of time, then it's time for a new battery ... and I just run the simple Wally World 26-5R batteries which are just a little over 50 bucks with exchange ... lasts 4 years, plenty of CC and made by Oxide.

You should rule the battery as bad first. Take it to an auto-zone and they can test it for you for free. I was 99% sure mine was dead and it tested dead (it was also like 5 years old...) I'm not sure about a false positive on a dead battery tested by them (falsely tests bad)

Anyway, I had sound systems in all of my cars and I would always swear by optima yellow/bluetop deep cycle batteries. Honestly you dont need those. I didnt really either. Onle 1400W RMS to all speakers (mostly to the sub...) And I never killed a duralst gold. they are around $100 instead of 170-220 for the optima, and come with a 3-5 year warranty depending on where you get it from plus I think 4 more years of prorated warranty (so about 7-9 years total warranty).

If you battery is bad, go with duralasts best line, and dont look back.

DSM1G90 said:

Throw the thing on a charger overnight and let it fully charge..

Next time, if you're gonna let it sit two weeks, disconnect the negative cable.

Then, if it's dead after that length of time, then it's time for a new battery ... and I just run the simple Wally World 26-5R batteries which are just a little over 50 bucks with exchange ... lasts 4 years, plenty of CC and made by Oxide.

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^^^^ this sounds like a good option too.

I agree with GSLENK. Duralast's have never let me down. No personal experience with DieHard but have read good things about them.

As mentioned, have your current battery tested first.

I personally have a Duralast battery. The thing is invincible. All accesories on at the same time, with A/C and no volt drops! A little dirty but it does the job well.

Bosch is another good one I have tried. If you can find one, get it!

Optimaa!! stay away from the kragen oreilly's superstarts! i had a really bad experience with them.

brianksm said:

Optimaa!! stay away from the kragen oreilly's superstarts! i had a really bad experience with them.

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Any reason to buy a $200 battery with a headache of a warranty system thats maxed at 3 years? Instead of a $100 battery with a minumum of 3 years free replacement, and up to 5 more years pro rated?

The only optimas I bought were at costco because I could guarantee instant swap warranty service. (costco customer service ftw...) if it wasnt for costco, I NEVER would have bought one.

I then realized that after only buying optimas for my other cars because of a "demanding" sound system (1000+WRMS, 3000+peak Watts) That a Duralast performed just as well. starts strong everytime. doesnt leave me stranded. I can leave my interior lights on all night, blast the stereo for a while....