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2G New GSX with some issues, won't start after sitting 5 years

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tom_and_case

10+ Year Contributor
65
0
Nov 3, 2011
Monticello, New_York
Ok, so we just bought a 95 gsx with 80k on it.... BUT it has been sitting for the better part of 5years. (only paid $1300) So here is our issue: Car cranks but won't turn over. We changed plugs, wires and replaced the old battery, checked for spark but none on any cylinder. So pulled the control module off of the wife's gsx and still nothing. We know her's work because she drives the car almost daily. After this we noticed that the camshaft sensor behind the cam gears was broken.

A friend of ours did some research and informed us that the camshaft, crankshaft, fuel and coils are on the same circuit ? So since that sensor is broken I won't get spark.... sounds odd to me. Obviously that sensor will get replaced and the timing redone.... any other suggestions are welcome.
Here is a list of the cars mods just in case:
Greddy 3" Power Extreme (PE) Catback
Hi-Flow Cat
RRE RSR style downpipe
Ported 14b turbo
Ported O2 housing
Ported exhaust manifold
Greddy Upper Intercooler pipe
Greddy Type S blow off valve
Apexi Front Mount Intercooler
Injen Intake system
Greddy Profec B-Spec II Electronic Boost Controller
RRE Catch Can/Crank Case Breather
Magnacore 8.5mm ignition wires
NGK cold plugs
Apexi Super Air Fuel Converter (S-AFC)
Walbro 255HP Fuel Pump
Autometer 52mm Boost and Air/Fuel Gauges in dual pillar pod
Greddy Turbo Timer

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since it has been sitting for 5 years, did it have gas. If so the gas is bad it would have eaten all the rubber and clogged the injectors.
happened to me
 
Yea make sure he drain ALL that gas out. Also I would pull out the fuel pump assembly and clean out the fuel tank the best you can. Throw some fresh 91/93 in, put on another cas and give it another go. A good seafoam treatment after you get it running thru the fuel system would do wonders im sure as well.
 
Is there any way to change the sensor with out having to re-do the timing on the car ? As of now the timing is good and i don't really want to mess with it if i don't have to ...... timing isn't really my forte .....
 
It could be the cam ange sensor(CAS) or the MPI relay. They both cut fuel and spark. I guess the best advice would be...you know you have no spark, check flto see that your injectors are opening with a noid light which you can purchase at almost any automotive store, advance auto parts, napa ect or pull the fuel rail and check the injectors that way. If you have neither I would put money on CAS or MPI otherwise. Its in the coil pack, power/ ground to the coil pack, or the power transistor
 
It could be the cam ange sensor(CAS) or the MPI relay. They both cut fuel and spark. I guess the best advice would be...you know you have no spark, check flto see that your injectors are opening with a noid light which you can purchase at almost any automotive store, advance auto parts, napa ect or pull the fuel rail and check the injectors that way. If you have neither I would put money on CAS or MPI otherwise. Its in the coil pack, power/ ground to the coil pack, or the power transistor

He said the CAS is broken so I'd start there.

Thats a hell of a find and I'm extremely jealous.
 
No kidding, guess I missed that. If you change that you should be good to go. There easy to change and as stated before the 2gs have a fixed base timing so you cant adjust it.
 
the camshaft sensor is behind the cam gears on this car... I believe it was only 94-96 that has them there. thats why i am asking if anyone knows how to change the sensor with out having to re-do the timing on the cam .

He said the CAS is broken so I'd start there.

Thats a hell of a find and I'm extremely jealous.

it will be up for sale once i get it cleaned up and work out any issues it may have from sitting ...... ;)
 
If its a 95 the ignition timing is always correct. You dont use a timing light on 2gs. You should be able to put a new cas in and be good to go.

He's talking about mechanical timing, not ignition timing. No there is no other way. You must take the belt off. You trust a belt sitting that long anyway? Regardless of mileage? No thanks. Take a look inside your fuel tank, I think you'll be surprised.
 
Thanks for all the advice.... fuel was drained and the pump works ( but will be replaced just because it sat) I have the fuel filter ready to be installed. The reason I didn't want to redo the timing right away is because I wanted to replace the sensor and see if it would even start before I threw the money into it there if maybe I needed to use it else where... Plus it is still down the street in the guys garage. But timing it is. My only issue now is figuring out how to get it in my shop. Haha The car is lowered and I have to use ramps to get into the garage, the wife's car barely makes it and it is still at the stock ride height.
 
Been there, done that. If you want to replace that sensor, you have no choice but to remove the belt and the cam gear. There is a couple alternatives, such as a 1g CAS swap or a 97+ ecu & CAS swap, but like they said earlier, I wouldn't trust a belt that old that has been sitting and rotting away. That is just asking for a bent valve special... Unless you are looking for a good excuse to rebuild the head.

Additionally, you need to take a close look at the hall ring behind the intake cam gear. It is likely warped. Those CAS sensors don't just break for no reason. It is very likely it was hit by the hall ring somehow, or something got bound up between the ring and the sensor.
 
Just an update, I have ordered EVERYTHING to do the timing on the car. Taking the bumpers off today so I can move it to my shop and should have it done by the end of the weekend.... then to see if I got a good deal on this car or what?! Hopefully it starts up with no issues.

Additionally, you need to take a close look at the hall ring behind the intake cam gear. It is likely warped. Those CAS sensors don't just break for no reason. It is very likely it was hit by the hall ring somehow, or something got bound up between the ring and the sensor.

I will take a look while I have everything apart. Thanks again for the advice.
 
So got all the timing stuff done just waiting for a new crank gear (cog) and then we will have our moment of truth with the 95 gsx . after i got it apart i found a few minor issues nothing to bad or expensive but the one big issue is that the water pump had seized which is why it was making a "funny" sound last time the previous owner had it started, so hopefully everything is alright when i go to start her ... it all looks fine so its just a matter of wait and see..... everyone wish us luck:pray:
 
So got all the timing stuff done just waiting for a new crank gear (cog) and then we will have our moment of truth with the 95 gsx . after i got it apart i found a few minor issues nothing to bad or expensive but the one big issue is that the water pump had seized which is why it was making a "funny" sound last time the previous owner had it started, so hopefully everything is alright when i go to start her ... it all looks fine so its just a matter of wait and see..... everyone wish us luck:pray:

good luck dude hope it runs smooth! Hopefully Ill have a job by the time you are selling this:thumb:
 
I *might* suggest you drop the pan and ensure everything is fine down there. A long time ago someone paid me to get their DSM running again after it sat for 9 years. They refused to drop the pan and just had me put a new timing kit on it. It ran for a few weeks (combating bad fuel system) until he lost a balance shaft bearing. I'm not sure, but I suspect sitting for so long had something to do with it.

I recently picked up a stock motor from the junkyard and I made sure to drop the pan and inspect and lubricate all rod/main caps and crank journals. Cheap insurance to keep from destroying a motor needlessly.
 
I *might* suggest you drop the pan and ensure everything is fine down there. A long time ago someone paid me to get their DSM running again after it sat for 9 years. They refused to drop the pan and just had me put a new timing kit on it. It ran for a few weeks (combating bad fuel system) until he lost a balance shaft bearing. I'm not sure, but I suspect sitting for so long had something to do with it.

I recently picked up a stock motor from the junkyard and I made sure to drop the pan and inspect and lubricate all rod/main caps and crank journals. Cheap insurance to keep from destroying a motor needlessly.

Well since it is up and apart I will do so. thanks for the advice.

I'll try to get a few more pics of the car and when it runs I will get a video of that exhaust.


Well the good: it runs! The bad: I have bent valves on cylinders 1 and 3.
I am picking up a cylinder head tonight and hopefully tearing the rest of the car apart tomorrow.
 
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I just want to make sure I have done my research and have this correct. Now I found locally a cylinder head off a 99 GSX for $150 (couldn't pass it up) no bent valves, came with the cams/ cam gears, intake manifold and all sensors. Including the 99 CAS.
To get the 99 CAS to work in my 95 all I am doing is getting the connector, connecting the wires ( they are the same colors) and swapping my wire order.
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/208873_4073247877688_1909402050_n.jpg
 
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hmm.... I can't find a connector for the 97-99 CAS so I am going to stick with the 95 cas considering it will still bolt right up.
I pulled the cylinder head off and found that the cylinder wall on one is scored.... so now deciding whether or not to give it a shot a the machine shop or look for a new bottom end.
 
Take pictures of the cylinder wall. Some scoring is normal. Should've done a compression test before pulling the head. Even a cold one will give you an idea on the condition of the bottom end.
 
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