I'm finishing up an exhaust replacement which includes new O2 housing, rebuilt 14b, FP manifold, etc.

I got all new hardware as well. The trouble is, I can't for the life of me get one of the mani to turbo bolts aligned and started. It's one of the short bolts closest to the radiator on the driver's side.
There isn't enough clearance for me to get the bolt straight up and down to start threading it. I can't get an open end or a crow's foot on it either because nothing fits these bolts except a 12mm closed end, but again there's not enough clearance, so it doesn't matter. It's a black ARP bolt btw.

So because the manifold makes for such a tight squeeze, I was thinking of taking a dremel to it and grinding some surface area away. I need a few millimeters to get the bolt aligned and the 12mm in the space.

So my question is: how thick is the Forced Performence manifold and what're the chances I'll make a hole?

I would just call FP normally, but it's Sunday and I need this thing up and running, because I need to drive it to my new apartment soon.

Any pics i got one but the problem your having is the arp bolt.

Makes me feel better about not getting ARP bolts instead of mitsu oem (2 o2 housing bolts for the short ones, 2 regular for the long)

I can easily get a open end on the hex head oems to tighten, and then the box end to torque it using the 2 wrench method to close to the others (others obv use a torque wrench)

You may wanna hit up home depot or something for a temporary bolt to get you going. I've run home depot bolts on turbos for up to 3 weeks, and no signs of bolt failure, that and some anti seize, they unbolted smoothly without snapping. I wouldn't grind that area as there are reasonable solutions (OEM bolts) and simple/ temporary options out there (HDepot bolts).

I saw this thread and I was personally thinking about grinding the 4 raised spots on each runner right in front of the manifold/block stud/nut areas. they make for a few more steps in installing/uninstalling.

I can snap a picture later this evening. I originally bought four OEM long mani to turbo bolts, but that was before I realized the FP mani needs two shorts and two longs. So I went and bought the two short ARP bolts. But now the ARPs are a problem.
I hate to now go spend $10 on a single new OEM o2 housing bolt. If I had known all this prior to starting, I would've just gotten two o2 housing bolts in the first place. Grrr, chalk it to a lesson I guess. It doesn't seem like other ppl have these hardware problems though.

And luckily, we're probably only moving a few blocks away, so I can push it if I have to . I may just do the HDepot thing for the meantime.

The Hdepot thing will def get you reliably moving for a while. It shouldnt take more than a month to make up your mind on what you want to do and have that option shilled to you hint hint.

I would personally go for oem o2 bolts. Its gonna cost like $20, you probably can pay no taxes/shipping if you shop around. If you time is worth at least $10 an hour, its probably gonna take you at least 2 hours to remove, grind, clean, replace, check, and repeat as necessary to fit. that and you may risk snapping manifold/head studs with constant removal. You also risk grinding too much material. You also risk resale value, I dont think anyone would pay as much for a grounded modded FP mani when the original performs just fine.

You bought a cast Ex manifold for a reason, (of course performance...) but its DURABLE, that durability comes from all that material on there...

Bottom line, Id buy HD bolts for like $2 now, and grab the 2 oem o2 bolts, and take it as a lesson learned. I was honestly gonna go APRs too, but I was scared off when I started looking at stainless and decided, F-it, oem did fine for 20 years (except for the stud, the other came off easy) Im sure oem will do fine for another 20+ years.

Im running the fp mani with 2 arp exhaust bolts and im not having any problems.

You have to start all 4 bolts before tightening them down, or it will go crooked on you.

Kreez said:

It doesn't seem like other ppl have these hardware problems though.

Click to expand...

That's cause OEM works just fine.

All right, I threw on a Hdepot bolt for now. I torque'd the four turbo/mani bolts to 40 ft/lbs and spent the rest of the evening getting it all buttoned up. Started up and idled just fine. Like you guys recommended, I plan on ordering the OEM o2 bolts from extremepsi as soon as I get a chance. Thank you guys for the help. OEM is the way to go, lesson learned
I have another issue though.

For some reason my brake fluid is low. I noticed it a few months ago (car's been sitting since Nov) but didn't pay much attention. It was at the proper level when I started working on the car months ago. I can't find any puddles either. The e-brake was up the whole time and now when I disengage the e-brake, the little "your parking brake is on" light won't go out. And naturally, the brakes do not function properly given the low fluid.

Can anyone explain how this all relates? Other then adding brake fluid and bleeding, is there anything else I should do or know?

The handbrake light is just a sticky switch just like our problematic door switches. My Spyder has the same issue but I've never gained the energy to pull it out and clean/replace it. I know it's a 2g, but I'm sure the same concept applies. As for losing brake fluid, all I can say is check around the rims, calipers, and the undercarriage for any wet spots. I can't imagine it has evaporated .

The area you are talking about! I had the same issue. I had to run to lowes(local hardware/homeware store) and get a bolt. Then cut the bolt, run the bolt back thorough the appropriate tap and then put it in. Then use a open end wrench to tight with a 1/4 turn at a time. It's a very long stacking process, but it will work.
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You're supposed to thread that bolt first. You let the turbo hang down so the bolt is all the way through the hole in the manifold, all the bolts actually. Thread that one first, then the rest, then progressively tighten them all up so you don't bind up the front right bolt. It's a pain, but there is no grinding necessary. This process works for stock and arp hardware.

Once you get the bolts threaded like the above poster said just take a cheap 12pt. wrench and cut part of it off as if to make an open end. Now you have an open ended 12pt. style wrench that can work with the ARP bolts while not going all the way around and causing clearance issues.

P.S. I had ARP bolts and they rusted/seized like a SOB on 2 cars I ve used them on. Got one set out without hurting anything, but that was the last car I put them on.

FFWD sells a bolt set just for the FP manifold that are OEM bolts.

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml