The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
To be honest a list of things you did and checked would help a lot. Reading your post my first thoughts were, did he check the battery, Is he low on oil or coolant, Is it getting gas?

Let us know so we can give you specific answers instead of a blanket list of stuff that could maybe be wrong.
 
So far I have changed the coil pack with a supposedly good working used 1 changed spark plugs
Plug wires
Put my ecu in friends laser and his car fired right up
Checked fuel pressure but dunno if the tester works because the pressure needle didn't even move from where it was

And another thing ever since it won't start something been draining my battery....
 
So you have no fuel pressure, that would cause the to not start. Look into that. Don't start just throwing parts on it, you can test everything.
 
So you have no fuel pressure, that would cause the to not start. Look into that. Don't start just throwing parts on it, you can test everything.

So should I get a new fuel filter and I'm gonna check the fuel pump and see if it's stock if so I'm gonna replace with a walboro
 
have a friend hold the return line off the FPR into a 2 liter or something while you crank the car. if your pump is working and your fuel filter is letting gas through, you should be getting gas at that line.

The coolant temperature sensor is also used when starting.

I suggest this.

See if you're getting fuel at the rail. Then pull your plugs and make sure you're getting spark. if you are getting spark and fuel, do a boost leak test and see if you have a massive boost leak someplace.

If all those test out fine, start looking at sensors. I would start with the coolant temp sensor.
2g housing
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

1g housing
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
had this similar problem when I did my battery relocation. ended up being that braided strap on top of the intake manifold.

but here are some ideas
hit the starter with something hard.
pain in the ass but make sure that tiny black wire is connected to starter and the power wire are clean.

EDIT: small BLK/YLW wire goes to starter solenoid?
 
ground wires like to magically come off on these cars. Annoying and scary but funny when you find out.
 
have a friend hold the return line off the FPR into a 2 liter or something while you crank the car. if your pump is working and your fuel filter is letting gas through, you should be getting gas at that line.

The coolant temperature sensor is also used when starting.

I suggest this.

See if you're getting fuel at the rail. Then pull your plugs and make sure you're getting spark. if you are getting spark and fuel, do a boost leak test and see if you have a massive boost leak someplace.

If all those test out fine, start looking at sensors. I would start with the coolant temp sensor.
2g housing
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

1g housing
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


alright sweet thank you ill try that tomorrow and lets you guys know what happens

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

i found these wires just hanging close to the by the temp sensor wires but idk what these wires go to???
 
Last edited:
Alright... I've read just about all the no start issues, threads, and posts here...

I have replaced the following:

ECU
CAS(went from greentop 90's to green top 91 see below)
ECT(engine coolant temp)

Some other relay another member suggested I try located behind the intake, I am not sure what the name or its use is... Its a silver box, rectangular and mounted on the firewall

Spark Plugs(went with ng's gapped at .28)
Spark Plug wires(went with bosch replaced ngk wires which had less than 1k miles on them)

Coil Pack




Issue:

Still tries to turn over, but don't get spark or fuel

Could the CAS or ECU I got be bad? Not sure if the eprom ECU I took out was bad, replaced it with a non-eprom 95 although this shouldn't be the issue....

I am afraid that I have the CAS wiring wrong as I replaced the 90's CAS which had built in wiring with another and sourced a TPS pigtail after 2 weeks of searching local junkyards to find one to work with this CAS....
Could someone cover the wiring colors/code from a TPS pigtail into my engine Harness? I tried to find this information but if you could get it for me/link to where i could find it you would be My hero!! Also I have check all fuses in the ignition system... But if anyone has fuse numbers for me to check/which relay's I can test those with my DVOM....


Still to test:

Fuel Pump
Reset timing

>>>> Ideas?


This was my Daily Driver, but with it down I'm sharing a car so I desperately need my Talon up and running...


Advice/Help appreciated...

Also located in Colorado... If any users are available for some hands-on assistance for an Army vet would be greatly appreciated!

Note: I will update thread with pictures... I have to run to bestbuy to get a new usb cord for my digital camera.... Sorry I can't include any at the moment to better explain/show the pigtail wiring issue and the unkown relay....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Alright First photo is of three unknown plugs... could someone identify? Located behind the battery


2nd photo: picture of unknown relay I swapped out...


3rd photo... CAS wiring

Wiring harness from car :
1 blue red strip
1 blue yellow strip
1 yellow red strip
1 black(ground i'm sure)
From tps pigtail(plugged into cas)
1 black (goes to black I bet!)
Red w/ white stripe
Green w/ white stripe
Brown w/ grey>white strip



Maybe I have this wiring wrong?

Also no smells from either ECU
1 ecu = when connected does not throw CEL when trying to crank car... leads me to believe this is a bad ECU
Other ECU throws CEL

Update: Replaced ECT, Still no start.... Gone through and probed relays and fuses with test light.... considering pulling each one and checking individually(with DVOM of course, most eye checks can be faulty)
 
Alright First photo is of three unknown plugs... could someone identify? Located behind the battery

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/428485-what-these-3-connectors-doing-wire-tuck.html


2nd photo: picture of unknown relay I swapped out...

That is the injector resistor pack.


3rd photo... CAS wiring

Wiring harness from car :
1 blue red strip
1 blue yellow strip
1 yellow red strip
1 black(ground i'm sure)
From tps pigtail(plugged into cas)
1 black (goes to black I bet!)
Red w/ white stripe
Green w/ white stripe
Brown w/ grey>white strip



Maybe I have this wiring wrong?[/QUOTE]

RRE Instructions

I know the colors won't match up, but you can match up position. For reference, the black wire should be the one on top (not closest to the fuel rail).
 
Check spark at the coilpack and at the plug, those random wires need to be identified for sure, check fuel pump, look at all fuses, pull codes if there are any. I park one of my DSM's over weekend once and went to start it and It just turned and and turned. I checked coil and was only getting power on half of it so i figured hey easy enough.... when i put in the new on the same thing happened! That made me mad LOL so i worked my way back and found that it was the CAS (cam angle senser), once I put the new one in she fired right up. I had people say my ecu was shot and other things but i ignored that and grabbed my multimeter and got to work. Note CAS are not cheap due to the fact chrysler doesnt remanufacture them, they go for about $200 on ebay and even more elsewhere. Ipicked mine up from a galant in a scrap yard for $50 and it's worked since.
 
How do i check if the coil pack is getting spark i took out the spark plug in cylinder #4 and plugged it into the spark plug wire touched a screwdriver to the valve cover and the spark plug and didnt see any spark when my bro cranked it over...
 
Where is your connector did it break off, pm me if you need one i believe i have one.

idk what those wires go to why would the connector just fall? off i havent messed with the motor until it stopped running so idk why that plug would of just fell off after 2 days of sitting
 
take your coil off and test the resistance in each of the towers. Also test ## power banks. I don't have technical measurements for you off hand but If you have a Haynes manual for your car it will tell you what it supposed to be at. Here check out this video it will help. How to Check an Ignition Coil Pack the easy way - YouTube

if your not getting anything in coil towers 1 and 4 either the powerbank is gone or the cam angle position senser is bad.
 
I was just trouble shooting my ECT sensor. I think they are green/white and brown as pictured. Probably the problem. ECU is thinking its starting a 300* engine when its cold.

Actually take that picture from a different angle thats throwing me off. that looks like its coming from the left of the trans (far pass side).

take your coil off and test the resistance in each of the towers. Also test ## power banks.

if your not getting anything in coil towers 1 and 4 either the powerbank is gone or the cam angle position senser is bad.

I doubt the power bank failed. I also doubt the coil, but it is more possible than the power transistor. You can test the coil on the car, just unplug its connector, and the wires. the resistance b/t 1+4, and 2+3 should each be around 12k-14k ohms
(mine were around 12.8, and 13.25 each)
 
alright sweet thanks guys im gonna check test my coil packs tomorrow and if they turn out fine i might pick up a CAS from the junk yard and see if that helps then ill get back to you guys!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top