The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Need new alternator, anyone tried a Beck-Arnley?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PurpleHazel

10+ Year Contributor
118
2
May 21, 2011
St. Louis-ish, Illinois
#5 in four months installed today.
:banghead:

90 amp lifetime remans are what its been chewing up and spitting out. I want to stick with bolt on. The new one from Mitsubishi is $450 at the local dealer. $169 is the price for the one it keeps eating. Beck Arnley offers one that's a little easier on the budget at about $230. Anyone had luck with one?

I'm open to suggestions here. :cry:
 
I get MITSU rebuilts from our local ALT shop for $119.00.

Head out to a yard, do your own pulls and get a bunch for cheap.

I bet 75% of them are still good.

If you're going through ALTs that bad, better get a new battery, for that is what kills ALTS in a heartbeat is bad batteries,
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you check the link I gave you before? $309 for a brand new Mitsu alt from STM is a lot better than $450 from your dealer.
 
Did you check the link I gave you before? $309 for a brand new Mitsu alt from STM is a lot better than $450 from your dealer.

I got caught up in two threads at the same time somehow. Sorry! I did just go look, and yes, better! Bookmarked it. Much thanks. :D

Still open to any other suggestions too. The battery is new, 750 cca, new cables and terminals. Had a friend who is much more knowledgeable when it comes to these things check it over with a multimeter as well, after the first replacement failed.
 
is heat killing it? something leaking on it? Thats nuts you've gone thru that many.

Nothing leaking. I've searched & researched all over the place and heat is the only thing left I guess, and that the remans just can't hold up in these cars sometimes. Everything in that area is stock.

I honestly just don't know and I'm finally throwing my hands up at this point. Between purchasing the original reman and the two towing bills I could have just gone to Mitsu in the first place. :banghead:
 
Just go get a Saturn one and be done with it. I've been through both oem and Saturn ones. Saturn when protected from heat (make a cheap heatshield) and not overtighened will last for what seems like forever. Plus I have 14.4+ volts at idle.
 
agree on the heat - do you have the factory heat shield on the exhaust manifold?
Just noticed you are from the STL area - I lived in O'Fallon, IL for 12 years. I still talk to the guys on gatewaydsm.org. Hope to bring my 92 back up that way in May.

Paul
 
agree on the heat - do you have the factory heat shield on the exhaust manifold?
Just noticed you are from the STL area - I lived in O'Fallon, IL for 12 years. I still talk to the guys on gatewaydsm.org. Hope to bring my 92 back up that way in May.

Paul

Factory shield in place. :sosad:

I live between Ofallon and Collinsville. I used to sell parts in O'fallon.
 
Where you from? Ofallon is where my GF lives right now. I live out in marine. About 15 miles away from ofallon.
OP: You have a huge amp/sub by any chance? I guarantee 1: you have a massive amp and 2: you dont have any capacitors to help with surges from the subs. This can and will burn up your alternator fast. Google how to setup a powerful sound system. You need atleast a 1 farad cap in there so it doesnt plow through your battery and put the current demand straight on the alternator. Cant believe no ones asked this yet...
Also, do you have the battery in the trunk? Regardless you may need to run a new alternator wire and make sure your grounds are extra solid. Take the chassis to engine grounds off and polish/sand both sides of the connector. Resistance, in excess, will impede current and cause even more heat which causes more resistance. Its cyclical, you see?
 
I am not sure I agree on the sub/amp thing. You would have to have some SERIOUS stereo to kill an alternator. I would look for a bad ground or open wire.
 
A capaciter doesn't help as much as people think as it really is just another thing for the alternator to keep charged.
 
how tight are you making the belt? This is the only thing that would kill more than one alternator.
 
Capacitors are used to supplement the battery as a shock absorber if you will. Yes they do need to be charged back up but which one do you think charges faster, the battery or the cap? IF the sub isnt pounded at max wattage constantly, the capacitor will do its job perfectly. I know a little about electronics, not being arrogant. But thats why theyre used. Its just another form of stored energy
 
To the OP: A used alt from a Saturn (already mentioned above) is basically as cheap as you can get from a junkyard and basically bolt on. And there are so many to choose from, just pick one, have it tested at autozone or advanced and call it a day. reference: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/272646-saturn-alternator-swap.html

Capacitors are used to supplement the battery as a shock absorber if you will. Yes they do need to be charged back up but which one do you think charges faster, the battery or the cap? IF the sub isnt pounded at max wattage constantly, the capacitor will do its job perfectly. I know a little about electronics, not being arrogant. But thats why theyre used. Its just another form of stored energy

Audio Caps are used to mask symptoms of an overworked system. Instead of a cap, buy a quality dry cell battery first. Then do the big three upgrade with 0g (or smaller if not that hardcore yet:p). If those two don't fix the original need for cap then seek a high output alt. More efficient amp(s) would also be better overall for the system.
 
Oreily's sells reman'ed Mistubishi alternators. Not just some random made in Taiwan junk. But you have to get the reman'ed alternator, not a new one.
 
Interesting: do you rewire the car with heavier and larger gauge wire due to the higher amp Saturn Alternator, or take the chance of car fires using the smaller gauge stock wire made for the lower amperage output stock alternator when using this high amp output Saturn alternator?

It's like having a 220v 30 amp breaker outlet to run the stove. Then, you change the stock stove to a stove attached that draws 40 amps using the same voltage. That larger stove is gonna soak more amps to run. You leave the smaller gauge wire in and that wire is going to get quite warm and starts to break down-copper isn't good with heat and will eventually break down...and you got an electrical fire, if the breaker doesn't pop first.

You change the breaker to 50a and the wire from a 10gauge to a 6 gauge so you won't burn the house down.
 
Are you unplugging the battery before attaching the positive cable on the alt ? I killed one Saturn like that.

Also the Saturn's single fan is better than both internal fans.
 
Interesting: do you rewire the car with heavier and larger gauge wire due to the higher amp Saturn Alternator, or take the chance of car fires using the smaller gauge stock wire made for the lower amperage output stock alternator when using this high amp output Saturn alternator?

It's like having a 220v 30 amp breaker outlet to run the stove. Then, you change the stock stove to a stove attached that draws 40 amps using the same voltage. That larger stove is gonna soak more amps to run. You leave the smaller gauge wire in and that wire is going to get quite warm and starts to break down-copper isn't good with heat and will eventually break down...and you got an electrical fire, if the breaker doesn't pop first.

You change the breaker to 50a and the wire from a 10gauge to a 6 gauge so you won't burn the house down.

The car doesnt use any more amps because there is more capacity. Its more like keeping the old stove and putting in the 50A breaker. When the system is working correctly the battery takes the big hits and the alt. keeps it charged. I think the Saturn alt. just does better at low rpm. With that said, no harm in replacing the wire from the alt. to the megafuse/battery with a larger gauge, especially if you have giant audio system.
 
My vote is heat or oil leaking onto the alternator. You also don't say how they die. When they test them, are the diodes dieing or is the armatuer or stator burning up? Are the bearings going out? Does it make a loud knocking sound? When the alt is off the car, does it spin freely after it quits? What kind of amp draw do you get upon startup? Get an amp meter that clamps around the alternator charge wire and see what it puts out at full load. Clean every terminal that involves the battery and alternator, including all body and engine grounds. Make sure the plug going into the back of the alternator is snug on the terminals. Vibration that causes loose terminals to contact and disconnect rapidly can also fry the regulator/rectifier.

If i think of anything else ill add it later.
 
No aftermarket sound system, no leaks on the alternator.

The OE alternator went out in a typical fashion, at 131,000+ miles. Goofy dash lights on & off one day, then gauges wonky, etc. the next day when I was on the road and it got bad including power loss trying to accelerate, pulled over and towed it to a friends shop.

Reman alternator #1 had a nasty poof of electric stink the first time we started the car. It went away immediately, seemed to run fine, putting out 13.5 - 13.8. This alternator lasted all of 10 miles down the road and I believe it was a lemon out of the box. Even so, towed back to shop where one of the guys went over everything with a multimeter just to make sure the car wasnt blowing them up. The battery was new, as well as terminals. This alternator was down to 8v or so when I bench tested it at work after removing it.

Reman alternator #2 lasted almost three months. Started up one morning, brakes, coolant, etc. lights on before I reached the e.d of the driveway so I stopped there. Reman alternator #2 sounded horrible after removal on the bench tester, bearing/pulley grinding.

Reman alternator #3 lasted about six weeks. No problems on the dash or running, but when I started it yesterday you could hear it whirring away as if trying to charge a dead battery, but the battery was charged. Whirring stopped after a few minutes, but I was driving it over to the shop again anyway. 12.2v this time on the car. I'll bench test it at work tomorrow.

Reman alternator #4 is holding strong for 24 hours so far.

Again, no leaks of any sort on the alternator(s), clean as a whistle every one. No aftermarket electronics,etc. Belt is new.

This morning the low coolant light came on and the coolant is NOT low. Battery is 100% charged, 13.5 v. Alternator at 13.86v, 36amp at idle. No other lights on.

Tried to bench test the one that came off Saturday and it trips the circuit breaker on the bench tester.

Would someone please just stab me in the eye now. :mad:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounds like a belt tension issue to me. These are hard to gauge where is "too tight" when the belt only travels a short distance. If you have access to a shop manual it might be worth a look.
 
Gave up and took it to a shop. Reman #4 puked in the bay the first time they started it. It didn't even have 20 miles on it. Delivered reman #5 yesterday. I picked this place because they have two guys there who are some of the best in the area when it comes to electrical & diagnostics. They are going over it with a fine toothed comb. A very expensive fine toothed comb. :| However worth it at this point. I need to rule out everything else before I shell out $300+ for a new one or one from Mitsu.

They are hoping to have an answer today. :pray:
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top