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First turbo DSM, need assistance/advice

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PFC_CiarlilloM

10+ Year Contributor
234
0
May 22, 2011
Euclid, Ohio
Hey Everyone,

So, I recently picked up a 1996 Eclipse GSX (139,998k) for $1600. My Talon ESi was just giving me one headache after another and after sinking atleast $2500 in it to find the frame to be going (damn Ohio weather LOL) I had to give my baby up <tears> Anyways, I was too excited that I had the funds together that I didnt really give the GSX the greatest look over and I went ahead and bought it.

http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/9...0321161714.jpg
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/2...0321162059.jpg
(Both pictures are in previous owners drive)

The way home it seemed really sluggish, it didn't seem to have any get up at all, and seemed to have a delay when I put the pedal down and when it would actually go. Also I noticed that the oil pressure was sky high (roughly at the white warning line all the way at the top of the gauge)

*Sluggish might be because of the throttle cable/cruise control cable, it wasn't sitting in the bracket correctly {cable to the right}* Will adjust according and see or it be because the TPS *P.O. gave me the new sensor, I replaced it, but didn't adjust it <didnt know until after>*

I came to find out that I blew the valve cover gasket. I am assuming I did atleast because it seemed like fresh oil was all over my bay when I got home.

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6...0328183053.jpg
*Next day, cant really cant tell from this pic, but oil is covering a lot*

I then replaced my Valve Cover Gasket with a Felpro gasket.
(New oil cap as well)

After doing the Valve Cover, I replaced the TPS <havent adjusted it correctly yet>, did an oil change <Royal Purple 10w-30+K&N filter>

*When changing the oil filter, I noticed that oil was caked all over the oil pan, oil filter, and misc lines, etc [Attached a few pictures]* The oil in the pan was also pretty nasty, definitely neglected

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6...0406191040.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6...0406191050.jpg

I bought an Oil Pan gasket and was planning on changing that, but upon cleaning the oil off, the gasket seemed to be fine so for the time being I have been putting my time in other places but will change it if the oil returns around the areas.

After changing the oil/filter, I prepped the engine bay <covered necessary parts/sensors/etc> and power/pressure washed the whole bay/car down to get rid of any oil/etc. Then followed by meticulously cleaning it down with Purple Power/Water mix.

http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2...0413180653.jpg

I have since then removed the rubber Air Intake <P.O. was missing the filter box & filter>, Radiator hoses (upper/lower) <found T-Stat housing to have milky substance in it *Oil was blacker than black during change, but there was sludge build up in coolant reservior* [Will do a rad flush and check to see if the milky color comes back again *I hope not, dont feel like doing a head gasket just yet*

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/50/...0413183801.jpg

After removing the factory rubber Air Intake, I found a hose/vacuum line broken and I am unsure where this is supposed to be *Attached picture* Also I noticed two wire harnesses unpluged near the oil filter. I am pretty sure one is for the fog lights *dont have them/pretty sure it was involved in an accident* but the other has me completely stumped *Attached picture*

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2...0413180737.jpg
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/533...0413180832.jpg

So now progressed has slowed down, I am waiting for my ChromeIntakes Air Intake+ K&N Air Filter, NGK BPR6ES Spark plugs, NGK (ME64) Wires, new silicone upper/lower Radiator hoses, RRE Larsons hose kit (4mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm hose to replace all the vacuum hoses, the coolant over flow hose, boost control hoses and blow off valve hoses), and Red Line Shock Proof Heavy for the Transfer Case and Rear Differential.

Side Note; Can someone tell me what this harness is supposed to be plugged into? Its near the Fuse Box to the left of the Gas/Brake pedals


http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4...0413181123.jpg
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6...0413181136.jpg

So now I need your guy's advice/recommendations on where to go from here. This is my DD so I was thinking something along the lines of doing the Stage One power adders and get the most out of my stock block (140k) before rebuilding. The previous owner made mention that the car was involved in an accident (can definitely tell in the front near the hood latch area) and that his brother had engine either rebuilt or had another one dropped in. Either way he had no proof so I am just taking it as the stock has the 140k original miles.

I still have to do BLT and compression tests.

Thanks,
Mike

Edit; Images are posted in order at the bottom.
 

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This motor looks like it could use some maintenance and cleaning jeez. I would do the compression test first before you start worrying about other things.
 
You need some SERIOUS maintenance! Clean that thing up, then move on to the bolt-on's and extras! Good "maintenance" prolongs overall health of your car.
 
@97gsxerrr - I took care of the cleaning part with the pressure washer and Purple Power/water mix. It looks a lot better now, and I'll be able to tell whats leaking once I finally get the parts in. I'll take care of the compression test today as well. I can't drive her at the current moment so this will affect my readings correct?

@96' Eclipse GS - I don't think I have ever seen another type of car that has been neglected nearly as much as DSM's. The condition I bought my ESi and now this GSX are horrible... I'm definitely all about doing things the right way, and know how important maintenance is. I just cant wait to bring this car back to what it should be and start making power (Ofcourse after every ounce of maintenance is done and pending compression)

@EclipsedFLA - I haven't actually inspected the CV axle boots, kind of slipped my mind at the moment. I'll take a look into that... Reminds me that the P.O. didn't give me the lug nut key so I'll have fun finding the right one.

@purplerocket69 - I hope it's not the headgasket. I'd like to drive the car more than once before I have to replace that... then again it's a DSM soo.... but after the compression test, radiator flush (milky color in T-Stat housing), and driving it around to see if leaks and what area's, I should hopefully be able to tell if it is the headgasket or not.

@Bling_23 - Thanks! I'll definitely look into that. My oil gauge shoots sky high. Before I started removing/cleaning up the engine bay, I reversed it down the drive way and the gauge was already at the warning line.. Any common issues that cause high oil pressure?
 
Nope you'll either have compression or you won't. Check your oil color to see if you're getting coolant in there. Also watch your temp and see if it's above normal.
 
Bro you're good just do your maintainance and flush out the ntire cooling system and go from there...the oil part is more than likely a bad cam or crank seal replace those along with the timing and balance belts, drive belts, waterpump and such. Rubber absorbs oil and if its anywear near as bad as described then it would definitely explain the oil's presence in the t-stat housung. Clean the engine do a compression test and then go from there, also verify and check the condition of the fuel system by checking and replacing the fuel filter

Good luck and definitely a nice find
 
So progress has been pretty slow, but I have gotten a lot done lately.

First things first, I took care of the compression test (Got a few odd numbers)
Compression Test Results:
Cylinder 4: 191, 178, 180
Cylinder 3: 178, 180, 180
Cylinder 2: 170, 180, 179
Cylinder 1: 169, 175, 181

but everything checks out pretty solid to me atleast <THANK GOD>

After completing the compression test, I moved onto building a boost leak tester and I'm in the process of taking care of all the boost leaks right now.


I thought I had a throttle body leak, so I took the whole throttle assembly out. I basically just cleaned the throttle body <pretty nasty> and then just replaced the gasket with the oem metal gasket and thin amount of Grey RTV. I couldn't find a hardware store open at the time that had the O-Rings/seals so I decided I'd take a gamble and pray mine are/were still okay. Here comes my big mistake <I think>The whole reason I took the throttle assembly out in the first place was because I thought it had a leak, and I noticed some bubbles coming up from a screw <which ended up being the BISS > Not knowing what it was I figured I'd try to tighten it up to see if it stopped the leak <which ofcourse didnt>

Anyways, after turning the PSI down on the compressor, I noticed the leak was actually coming from right up under the Throttle Body <I can see a handful of vacuum hoses> I am assuming the sound just echoed up making it seem like it was from the TB. Does anyone know the sizes of the hoses down there off hand?

At this point, I plan on replacing every vacuum hose I come by to be on the safe side. I just received RRE's Larson Silicone Hose kit in the mail and replaced a lot, but there is still a good amount of hose/lines I can see after using everything the kit gave me. If anyone can point me to a list of vacuum hose sizes, or just tell me that would be great. I know that it's mostly 4/6/8/10mm but I'd like to know what uses, or where the 4mm, 6mm, etc goes. I know it'll vary between builds, emissions delete, and what not, but I am just looking for a base.

Also for the rest of the vacuum lines left would I be able to replace them with rubber vacuum hose from Advanced or would it be better/worth it to do everything in silicone instead?

I have added a few pictures of the vacuum lines I replaced just to make sure that they are all the right sizes (I want and try to do things the right way the first time)

The main reason I added the pictures was because on the Larson Silicone Hose kit page[http://www.atlcomputing.com/aaron/eclipse/hoses/] It said he used 4mm for the TB and FPR. When I looked at the diameter of the OEM TB/FPR vacuum lines they were a little bigger than 4mm supplied and the 6mm was just a tad too big. I put the 4mm on but just wanted to make sure that it's okay to run the 4mm silicone hose.

After I take care of the boost leaks/vacuum lines, I have to adjust the TPS <Looking up how to adjust it is where I found out the whole BISS mistake> I am still a little confused on how to adjust the TPS. It might be because I have never read the directions while looking in the engine bay.

Anyways, since I ACCIDENTALLY tightened the BISS would it be safe <in this order> to just re-do the fixed SAS, adjust the BISS, and then set the new TPS?

Before I tightened the BISS, the car idled really high. Roughly 1500 then went down to 1300 I think. That is with a bad TPS <According to the P.O>

That should be it for now. Everything else that's wrong I can handle but I just wanted to play it safe and ask about these couple issues.

WHY ARE ALL THESE CARS NEGLECTED?!
 

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