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1G Car Wont Stay Running

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mjboehm

15+ Year Contributor
229
3
Oct 18, 2006
Fort Myers, Florida
To start off car ran for 6hrs fine in my garage. I went out to start it getting no spark then I changed out everything(cas,coil,ptu) getting spark, fuel and compression. Car will start and run ?for 5-10 seconds and dies. Then try to start the car again and just turns over. I have checked the ecu, it is fine. I checked all the wires ect, I checked the cts. Any suggestions? Btw this is a 1990 eagle talon tsi awd.
 
Honestly I had something similar happen to me when my alternator completely gave out. Make sure that and the battery all good, connection, output etc
 
Updated
After letting the car sit for a few days. It started up fine and died again. I tried staring it up again started then died again. Then the motor just turned over. I was told it might be the isc stuck open at 100% just dumping fuel in my motor. Also I was told it might be my fpr went bad. I have to double check that today when I get home. I will update after I do these test.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The ISC doesnt dump fuel. I really think its your ECU, i used to repair a bunch of these over 12 years ago for the Talon Digest list at dsm.org.
 
I tried another ecu in my car and still does the same thing. I took my ecu and double checked everything btw the capacitors where replaced a few years ago. Is there anything else that I can check or should I send my ecu out to get capacitors replaced again?
 
Don't take this the wrong way...

In my experience helping local members, they often don't actually do the tests they say they did for a couple reasons.

a. They don't know how and don't want to seem stupid by asking

b. They are "positive" in their mind that somehting isn't an issue so they don't test it and say they did. Compresison/leakdown on a new rebuild is a good example of this.

c. They are scared to know the truth. Again ,compression on a new rebuild is a good example of this.

Obviously my post is implying that if you haven't done a compresison test for real, you need to. I'm not saying that you fall into the one of the categories I listed, but if a person is not actually doing the tests they say they did, they are only hurting themselves.

Since you know the exact amount of time that you ran this car, I'm am sort of assuming this is a fresh rebuilt engine. Your problem sounds a lot like poor compression. If your compresison tested fine, it sounds a lot like a bad ECU or maybe MAf if you are using one. .
 
The compression is the car is fine(one of the first things I checked). I checked every sensor . I check the ecu with a analog voltmeter and buzzer. The car ran great for 6-7 hrs in my garage. Now it just starts for 5-20 seconds and dies and doesn't start back up. If you leave the car sit for a few hours does the same thing. This isn't a fresh rebuilt motor has a few thousands miles on it. I am going to send out my ecu to get checked out again.
 
Bad coolant temp sensor? that would make it pretty rich...

You have some sort of logger? that would help a lot...

Nothing personal but I'm with Seamus I see WAY too many people that just don't want to acknowledge that what people are telling them is the problem. I've gone as far as make people show me pics of things to only find out that they did in fact have problems that I had mentioned but they had ignored/assumed that it would cause the issues...

I'm not saying that your doing this just that if you have some way to confirm that you have in-fact addressed all the issues that people are saying may be a problem that you will get a lot more help then just saying that's not the problem...

Hell you could be getting fuel pressure building while the car is off from something like a fuel pump o-ring not seated all the way yet not have the pressure to keep running...

My point is that if you provide detail as to why you say that these thing are not people can help you address your problem properly... .
 
dont think about it as "why is it dieing?" you know that already.. its running way too rich.. you have eliminated a few things by swapping out.. and when it floods out and dies there is too much fuel in there to start.. so forget all that stuff.. the question is "why am i flooding out?" so now that we have narrowed it down to just too much fuel.. what causes that? CTS,MAF, MAP, too much fuel pressure, etc etc.. did you ever really change all 4 injectors for stock ones? you just said you cleaned them.. also is it all 4 cylinders that has fuel in them? if so then i doubt all 4 injectors went bad at same time unless you had alot of junk in tank.. BTW my car ran alright with a completely stuck open injector.. so i know its not just 1 injector/cylinder issue. wouldnt think an o2 would put that much fuel in there but you can try testing/swapping it
 
i had the same problem, my coolant temp sensor was no where to be found, i replaced it and it started right up. i think this may be your problem because a bad sensor tells your engine that its cold and to dump fuel, thus causeing flooded out motor, mix that with you pressing the gas and you got fuel everywhere! check the sensors on your coolant housing! 10$ sensor if its bad btw, part number 2-8245 on oreilys.com.

may not be the problem , but wouldnt hurt to look and check connection!
 
dont think about it as "why is it dieing?" you know that already..

Assumptions get nobody anywhere... . We don't know that at all, only person that will be able or can tell that for a 100% certainty is someone standing in front of the car... . just because it's rich after trying to start the car a bunch of times doesn't mean it's the problem... .

OP

What Have you tested to be 100% certain you have good spark?
 
How does the car die when it cuts off? does it stumble or cut off like you turned the key off? Try spraying starting fluid into the intake when it starts to cut off and see if you can keep it running longer using it. I don't recommend letting it run long though using the ether if it works. Did you ever install the stock injectors?

How long do you have to wait for it to start again after it quits wanting to start? Do you have any way of checking fuel pressure? A small possibility its too high.
 
k so fuel on top of cylinders after 10 seconds of running is an assumption? k gotcha

Anything without seeing it your self or with out more info is a assumption being a smart ass will get you no where...

If the fuel isn't being ignited properly, How would it be a Fueling problem? I'm not saying it's not the problem merely that saying it is is not going to solve the OP's problem by sitting on you Pc somewhere else saying anything is or isn't the problem for sure with out more info...

Being thorough is going to help though and that was what I was trying to be... .

For all we know the guy had the wrong setting on the MAF-t or has no way to control the Fueling for what is listed in the mods list. Hell it's got a few hours run time? it could have been a fresh build an they washed down the cylinder walls an Now has low compression... . there is a lot of info missing here that makes me wonder... . So as I said don't make assumptions it doesn't help :thumb:
 
Anything without seeing it your self or with out more info is a assumption being a smart as will get you no where...

If the fuel isn't being ignited properly, How would it be a Fueling problem? I'm not saying it's not the problem merely that saying it is is not going to solve the OP's problem by sitting on you Pc somewhere else saying anything is or isn't the problem for sure with out more info...

Being thorough is going to help though and that was what I was trying to be... .

For all we know the guy had the wrong setting on the MAF-t or has no way to control the Fueling for what is listed in the mods list. Hell it's got a few hours run time? it could have been a fresh build an they washed down the cylinder walls an Now has low compression... . there is a lot of info missing here that makes me wonder... . So as I said don't make assumptions it doesn't help :thumb:

He said the build had a few thousand miles on it
 
well i dont work on cars just once a month.. im using alot of experience behind my assumption.. and im not being rude its just if he sees fuel in there.. theres fuel in there.. also washed out cylinders is not going to make it start up and run then die like that.. another thing before you say it.. not saying you will, but just in case, im not saying you dont know anything about cars and i know it all.. but its just too obvious what the real problem is.. and if it was ignited properly there STILL wouldnt be enough fuel in there to visually see it after 10 seconds.. sometimes being thorough when you dont have alot of experience wont get the job done, anytime soon atleast.. you can usually tell when someone knows a little about what they are talking about and not an internet person..

dont take any of this the wrong way, i dont care if you do or not.. i know what i can do and the extent of my knowledge on ALL makes and models.. they work the same generally speaking.. but yes you cant believe everything the OP is saying as mentioned before.. but im giving them the benefit of the doubt
 
Not sure I care what your point is of that long draw on rambling was or what you trying to even say... or imply.

But, My head hurts now after reading that... .

He said the build had a few thousand miles on it

Missed that... Either way I speaking hypothetically.




I don't think that there is much point in posting till the OP has posted more info.
 
Not sure I care what your point is of that long draw on rambling...

But, My head hurts now after reading that... .



Missed that... Either way I speaking hypothetically.

if you dont care and cant understand things.. then dont comment. seems here your the guy on the pc typing crap up when you dont really know

btw it means i wasnt being mean.. i know what the hell im talking about.. i backed up some of what you said. and i backed up some of what i said.. its ####ing obvious that its getting too much fuel. NOT too little ignition, NOT washed out cylinders.
 
if you dont care and cant understand things.. then dont comment. seems here your the guy on the pc typing crap up when you dont really know

btw it means i wasnt being mean.. i know what the hell im talking about.. i backed up some of what you said. and i backed up some of what i said.. its ####ing obvious that its getting too much fuel. NOT too little ignition, NOT washed out cylinders.

neither of you are getting anywhere arguing. Pm each other if you want to argue so much. Don't ruin a thread. It would be good to wait on the OP before posting anymore.
 
A bad Coolant temp sensor will cause it to run extremely rich, but usually in the case of a bad CTS the car will not even fire up and run because it gets flooded instantly, but then again every car is different and behaves differently. You can test your CTS, but with it being a 22 year old car and it never replaced, it may just be worth buying a new one.

DSM simple test page

You are running a Walbro 255 which is known to overrun a stock fuel pressure regulator. I would highly consider upgrading to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or going back to the factory pump until you can get one. Unplug the vacuum hose to the stock FPR and see if their is any fuel in the line.
 
People keep mentioning the coolant sensor I seriously doubt that is it. It is starting and then dieing and won't restart. a bad coolant sensor the car is VERY hard to start, but then will run once oyu get it going-if it has good compression hahah(i had to throw that joke in) from what he is describing, he has the opposite going on. His car is starting right up and won't stay running and then has a no start until its sat for a while.
 
from too much fuel.. over ran FPR.. because it is more than likely all 4 cylinders and thats why it only takes a short time to flood it out... or something like a stopped up return
 
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