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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
look for the starter kill relay and jump the normally open contacts (pins 87 and 30)(unplugging everything from the brain of course)

Or trace your ignition wires and reconnect them in a factory fashion.

if you still get no start, begin looking for other cutoff relays, like fuel pump interrupt etc...

You can reset the alarm somehow, (i think even without using the button code) And I doubt you tried 100 codes because there are only a pissible ~20 or less LOL. Read the manual. It should take up to that many attempts, and you may get locked out after a few failed attempts for a while, (again read the manual) manual for your model can be found by google, or the12volt.com. This should answer your q. need more help lmk.
 
Where do i find these relays?
here is what i think happened, somehow the VRS (page 45) triggered and now car wont start, i cant seem to disarm it, also no other features of the alarm work, doors dont unlock or lock. I read through the manual but am still completely lost. How would i go about wiring the starter back the way its supposed to be? just discconect the wires going to the brain which holds the relay, and splice them back together? how do i figure out which wires those are, because i cant find a wiring diagram.
http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/og/viper/G3302V_11-06post.pdf
 
Go and look at the positive post of the battery. If there is a red wire coming off the battery. Trace it back to a fuse. The fuse should be 12" from the battery. Remove the fuse and you are good to go.

If it is not there. Go you your alarm and look for a red wire. Trace that wire to the power source. There should be a fuse inline with the red wire. Remove the fuse and car should start.
 
Found red wire with fuse coming from alarm brain, pulled fuse, car still does nothing. like just normal put key in and it lights come on but no ignition at all. another wire has a fuse in it, pulled that one, nothing. pulled big connecter off brain, jumped too red wires together, nothing..
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How can i start this bi***!
 
try unplugging the harnesses from the breain.. remove the brain and see what happens.. wish i was closer id halep ya out.. i could look at it in perosn and trouble shoot it for ya... alarms and what not arent that complicated but alot harder when its in pics and you can trace wires yourself..

you have 2 remotes.. one with the screen one without.. it doesnt matter what remote you have it will still arm and disarm.. the only diff with the two remotes is the screen and remote start if im not mistaken....

If you know what is the power and what is the ground and what is the acc wires.. you can cut those but dont do that unless you have enough slack to butt connect them back later...
 
Tried unplugging the brain completely still nothing, i imagine the igniton wires run into the brain, through a relay which is no open and back out the brain, i need to basically bypass the brain splice iginiton wires back together and see what happens. a shop told me about 100 bucks to uninstall the alarm but im worried they might half ass it and just like..unhook the brain and be like "YA I DUNNO WHY ## CAR AINT STARTIN BRAH MUST BE MECHANICAL LULZ"
 
You will have to splice the 2 wires back together that the ignition kill wires connect to. Take the take off the harness where the wires connect to the factory harness.
 
Tried splicing ignition wires back together. still nothing.

heres what happens
put key on
can turn lights on, no sounds, only lights turn on, and turn on fine, cant operate windows or sunroof, cannot do anything basically besides turn lights in car and headlights on and off. This thing is wired in to everything it seems.
 
ok first you need to see if your getting fuel, easyest way is to pull off the supply line to the rail. hold a clear bottle over the end of the supply line and have someone try and start the car, you should get get a nice flow of gas (if no gas check fuel pump) if nice flow see if ## getting spark. easyest way is to check is pull the number 1 plug out, stick the plugwire back on (HOLDING RUBBER PART) hold the plug on the something metal that is grounded to the car have someone try and start the car. if you dont see spark check timeing belt if they are tight and good check and test your coil. to do this, get you a HAYNES MANUAL for your car, you can get one from AutoZone. Look under engine electrical system should be chapter 5 it will give you the step by step instructions on how to test it (you will need a ohms meter, a D battery and a set of jumper wires)

Ignition Coil Specifications

1.8L engines
Primary resistance.............................................. 0.9 to 1.2 ohms
Secondary resistance.......................................... 19,000 to 27,000 ohms
Insulation resistance.......................................... More than 10M ohms
2.0L engines
Primary resistance.............................................. 0.7 to 0.86 ohms
secondary resistance.......................................... 11,300 to 15,300 ohms
Insulation resistance.......................................... More than 10M ohms
Ignition timing......................................................... 5-degrees BTDC at 700rpm (refer to VECI label)

If your coil test fine check and see if ## car has a coil pack, if so the HAYNES MANUAL will show how to test it. if no coil or it test fine it will be one of three sensors. IF need more help send me a message, i just did all of this on my talon so i can help you out in any way when it comes to this
 
So im starting to think its not the alarm system, because radio does not come on and windows and such do not work, what controls all of these things? like none of my dash lights come on, not my brake light or my CEL (which is always on lulz) anything central to all this?
 
sounds like ## car is turning over real slow and u say u drove it one night and the next morning it wouldnt start sounds like it jumped time do this pull your timeing belt cover of turn the motor around by hand till the cam shaft/shafts are lined with there timeing marks. pull ## distributer cap off and see if its sitting under number 1 then turn the motor around 1 full rotation lineing back up your timeing marks on your cam shaft/shafts again. if both time its under number 1 your good but if u put it under number 1 and and the markes dont line up then and after a full rotation then ## either 180 off or 90 off then in that case you need to pull the timeing belt off and realine all of your timeing marks for cam shaft, oil pump sproket, crank shaft then put belt back on then check again by turning the motor by hand 2 times
 
i checked the timing already once and it was all lined up just fine but i guess something could have went wrong.
 
Yea everyone of them marks have to be dead on also check your timing belt fo missing teeth. i just went through all of this with my talon not to long ago

yea man check all of the timing marks they all have to be dead on i just delt with the same problem with my Talon also check your timing belt see if its missing any teeth

sorry for the double post
 
I made a horrible mistake in checking my timing. Make sure the dowl pins are facing up when the #1 piston is making its compression stroke, use a long screw driver to check. Found I was off by a tooth causing crazy compression loss
 
yes your camshaft sprockets timing marks poin right at each other, ## crankshafts timeing marks will be on the back of the sprocket on the thing that looks like a big washer there will be a notchin it its timeing mark that it lines up with will be a small triangel on the block, now your oil pump srockets timing mark will be on the face of the sprocket it will be a small dot it will line up with a small triangel on the block but your oil pump sprocket is weighted when u turn it by hand u will see now when your oil pump sprocket is lined up just barely turn it it should turn have the tendency to remain stationary that means the weight is at the bottom but it u move it and it turns clockwise the weight is at the top and you need to fix it cause if u dont when you start your motor and it runs you will have severe engine vibraion
 
ok first of all, 90s are specail, they are more like .5g instead of 1g, some of the wiring is diffrent then the other 1gs, and as far as the ECU goes u cannot use anything other then a 90 ecu in a 90 inless u get it moded(switch like 2 relays) so first thing first find a 90 ecu, 2nd thing check ## coil plug/fitting make sure theres no gunk in there and make sure ## coils r firing right. check ## fuel filter and injectors make sure they r not cloged.

And all of this has what exactly to do with a zero compression condition? Further, you can use a '91+ ECU in a '90 without modifying anything in the ECU. You switch two wires plugging into the ECU. This has been covered numerous times on this site.

OP, give VFAQ.com a nice look over. Specifically: Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED).
 
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