Well for over a year now ive had troubles with my forged turbo standalone megasquirt 420a. At one time it ran but very poorly, since then ive gotten new cams, timed it about a dozen times til i got it right, got rid of the 1200cc and the e85 in the tank for more mild 650cc injetors and 87 octane. I settled for some cheap osidetiger injectors for the amount i sold my rc 1200's for. I also bought the premium ms harness and rewired the whole car just reaching for a solution to my problems. after the new work it will try to fire for a short time after the priming pulse but will not stay running. Although i try not to use starting fluid very often i gave it a shot and the car seems to run very well until it burns all the fluid from the squirt in the TB. This seems to be a fuel issue but the plugs are all wet like they are opening. Anybody have experience with these injectors? wouldnt think they are junk but im out of ideas. Anybody got any ideas or input to what it could be or what i should check? Vacuum leak?

So start with injectors/Noid test, as well as what the fuel pressure is at the fuel rail and so on, etc. It is possible that it is NOT a fuel problem all together, and the ECU/Electrical is not letting the fuel stay on while cranking....just a thought

Alright well i finally got to get out with a partner to help me soo i can moniter fuel while they are cranking. Fuel pressure does have priming pusle, and does pump while cranking. I was afraid i didnt have enough fuel pressure because i am using a new afpr and just ran an entirely new feed and return to the walbro 255. I had my girlfriend crank the car and noticed i was making nearly 120 pounds of fuel pressure I cranked the afpr back down to 45ish but im assuming 120psi is pretty hard on the injectors. I pulled all the plugs and dont believe im getting fuel now. When i said i was getting fuel it was right after i installed the injectors. Also i am no longer getting it to fire off the priming pulse. All these observations together id say my injectors arent opening. How do i test them, can i pull the rail off and see if they are squirting that way? Whats the best way to test the wiring? i have power to the hot wire going to the injector harness

Thanks for posting the great video. After wok i called advance auto in town and they claim they dont have a noid light soo i used my test light and determined that i DO have power to the injectors. I believe i understand how the noid light works and i think the test light will work the same way with the power probe pushed into the power plug of the harrness and the ground pobe into the ecu signal wire. This way when cranking and the ground signal from ecu will light up the light when the injector is told to fire??? I did this and did not light up the test light on any of the injector harness's. Does this method not replace the use of the noid light? If this method is correct i am forced to believe i need to send my ecu back to symtech and have them look for a problem. Ive been searrching through tunerstudio and do not see anything alarming there that would not allow injector signalling.

The kit i use i got from Advance and they looked at me like i was crazy when i asked about it. I think it was around $30-35?

The fact that you were getting fuel at 120psi then not at 45 seems a bit odd to me but I guess something could of gone wrong during the switch.

And yes a vacuum leak could make the car try to start for a split second but not fully start, but it would have to be a big one.. I had a similar problem when my TB gasket came half off during reassembly (don't ask ). The way i determined it to be the culprit was when the car would try to fire i would play with the throttle. It luckily started and revved to about 4k..