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hitting a brick wall

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dsm03

15+ Year Contributor
1,171
8
Mar 4, 2007
Brandon, MB_Canada
Mods are current in profile.

Start off by saying boost leak test has been performed. Removed boost controller lines and ran back into waste gate. Changed plugs and still this...

WOT by the time it hits higher RPM's 5200+ feels like I hit a brick wall. Cannot seem to figure what the heck is going on...

Even adjusted the boost all the way down... I am stumped and it sucks that it can't even run right.. Especially coming out of a yield and just half throttle just to get up to speed so I don't slow traffic down, makes me studder and cut out...


Please help!
 
Before my clutch totally failed it would do this. I could of sworn at the time it was fuel cut.

I should add that my clutch was also a act 2100.
 
Last edited:
I have the waste gate ported, before I was getting mad boost creep but once I ported the Turbo, It fixed the issue of boost creep..

I have it currently set to 14psi, but even with it turned down all the way it hesitates still.. but not as aggressive.

Again, I ran it back to the waste gate for stock boost and still have the same problem...

The clutch theory is a bit interesting, but I just had it installed not too long ago.. Don't beat on the car much at all so I can't be worn that bad yet..
 
I have the waste gate ported, before I was getting mad boost creep but once I ported the Turbo, It fixed the issue of boost creep..

I have it currently set to 14psi, but even with it turned down all the way it hesitates still.. but not as aggressive.

Again, I ran it back to the waste gate for stock boost and still have the same problem...

The clutch theory is a bit interesting, but I just had it installed not too long ago.. Don't beat on the car much at all so I can't be worn that bad yet..

Even if you backed the boost up if the waste gate is faulty you can still hit the wall. And if your saying that it isn't as hard of a hesitation then that may be the problem.

Armin
 
Double check your plugs because I was having the same problem just as you described and it turned out to be bad plugs. It may just be a simple fix to your problem ... keep it simple start with the basics and go from there. There is always a logical explaination to the problem.
 
Check your map sensor, faulty map will cause fuel cut. You would need a big boost leak like a blown off pipe to get that brick wall feeling so I'd say a fuel cut is the issue.
 
Double check your plugs because I was having the same problem just as you described and it turned out to be bad plugs. It may just be a simple fix to your problem ... keep it simple start with the basics and go from there. There is always a logical explaination to the problem.

Replaced plugs twice now.

I will be installing my evo injectors soon. We'll see if that changes anything
 
The MAP sensor on our cars only verifies operation of the EVAP system.

However, this does sound a lot like fuel cut.

Sorry for the misinformation, I'm coming from the Evo world so I'm still finding the differences LOL.

Replaced plugs twice now.

I will be installing my evo injectors soon. We'll see if that changes anything

For the amount of boost your running, adding fuel or anything of the sort would just be a bandaid, I would keep your set up and try and narrow down the problem for a real fix.
 
Definitely sounds like fuel cut to me. Same thing happened with me until I put in my 650's.
 
Wideband reading:
Idle 22.0-22.2 and cruise around 40mph
Cruise at 54mph 16.9-17.1
WOT 10.3ish

Is this correct?

Once in awhile it will buck.. but now that the weather has been super warm it hasn't been as bad.....:s
 
Wideband reading:
Idle 22.0-22.2 and cruise around 40mph
Cruise at 54mph 16.9-17.1
WOT 10.3ish

Is this correct?

Once in awhile it will buck.. but now that the weather has been super warm it hasn't been as bad.....:s

To see those wideband values at idle, you have a large exhaust leak pre wideband o2. Fact.

Whether or not this is your issue get this fixed and see if this huge leak is the culprit to your loss of power.

A boost leak can also cause this but with different side effects. You would see a lean condition at idle unless leak is big enough then fuel would be thrown, and in boost you would be running very rich. From what you've said (already performed boost leak test), and how your afrs settle to the norm in boost,

You sir have an exhaust leak pre wideband o2.

Also to add, you can rule out a stuck open wastegate because that's an internal leak that wouldn't affect your idle afrs, UNLESS you have installed an open dump o2, then a stuck open wastegate could be plausible. If you don't have an open dump, fix the leak at your manifold to head, manifold to turbo, turbo to o2 housing, hotside to center section, or o2 housing to downpipe.

It'll be one of those 5 gaskets/seals.
 
To see those wideband values at idle, you have a large exhaust leak pre wideband o2. Fact.

Whether or not this is your issue get this fixed and see if this huge leak is the culprit to your loss of power.

A boost leak can also cause this but with different side effects. You would see a lean condition at idle unless leak is big enough then fuel would be thrown, and in boost you would be running very rich. From what you've said (already performed boost leak test), and how your afrs settle to the norm in boost,

You sir have an exhaust leak pre wideband o2.

Also to add, you can rule out a stuck open wastegate because that's an internal leak that wouldn't affect your idle afrs, UNLESS you have installed an open dump o2, then a stuck open wastegate could be plausible. If you don't have an open dump, fix the leak at your manifold to head, manifold to turbo, turbo to o2 housing, hotside to center section, or o2 housing to downpipe.

It'll be one of those 5 gaskets/seals.

Appreciate the insight. Will look into those areas. As, for the open dump, no I am not running one. Wastegate is still Internal (illegal for External here)
 
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