How long ago did certain oil companies start taking out these "additives"?? Some of the hardcore V8 guys at work say they have been switching oils because of this recently. I don't beat the piss out of my car and it sees fresh oil and filter a 2500 on the dot. So does the oil not having these "additives" make that much of a difference?? It's my daily and my only so I am very interested in this.
I run 10w30 and have had zero problems

Employee discounts are the best I work at Advance Auto, and use nothing but K&N filters on my bike and my car.

007jimmy said:

How long ago did certain oil companies start taking out these "additives"??

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The HDDP levels have been dropping since around 2004, when the government mandated longer life for catalytic converters. (Phosphorus is bad for cats over time).

As to how much of an effect the lower levels have, it's controversial. It will affect some things more than others, and is very dependent on too many factors to list. But it has been shown to cause degraded performance in thrust bearing interfaces (specifically turbos), which is good enough for me.

BTW - As for the actual thread topic, I prefer Napa Gold (Wix) filters, part number 1381.

First of all I would like to clear this all up. The Haynes Man for 90-94 dsm's reccomends 15w 40 for
Temps ranging between 0&110 degrees F ambiant temp. It's there in black and white check for yourself if you don't believe me.

Secondly Im in agreement will all the responses related to oil thinkness over the past 10 years getting thinner.

At 200 degrees F 10w 30 turns to nearly the consistency of break fluid. I will be changing to a 10w 40 weight oil with a tad bit of Lucas oil stabilizer . I'm not sure which brand of oil I will run yet as prices of oil are skyrocketing . Just my 2 cents

As far as this argument goes I can show proof of why Mobil 1 along with the Fram oil filters is not good oil. It probably did not help with a Fram filter either. I had a 92 tsi with trashed main and rod bearings with only 40k miles on the clock. OEM filters and Valvoline VR1 20w-50 in mine only, nothing else.

pimpin81 said:

At 200 degrees F 10w 30 turns to nearly the consistency of break fluid.

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This right here. If you ever change 10w30 oil while it's hot (don't ask why I was, I'm ignorant ) you'll see that it has a similar consistency to water. 20w50 still takes some time to drip out of the drain plug even at near operating temperature. And like the manual states, 15w-40 is the "recomended" weight. I personally feel that this is for stock engines running stock tolerances and stock power.

Craig, out of morbid curiosity, what are your feelings about Royal Purple?

I've always had good luck with their fluids (gear oil and conventional motor oil), but I haven't tried the XPR oils that FP recommended. Most of their stuff seems WAY over-priced though.

We've got some that I guess is being discontinued or something. 10w40 quarts for something like $5.95? I think. Hubby runs 10-30 to in the gst and we haven't had any issues with it. Right now its got a Mobil 1 filter on it. And he drives it 120 miles or something ridiculous round trip daily. I guess for most people it comes down to personal preference as well as what they can afford sometimes as far as oil changes go. In my truck and in the gs, I always use, and always will use, castrol gtx high mileage 10w30. As far as filters, I've used fram tough guard filters, I've used purolator filters, mopar, promotive filters...I've never had an issue with an oil filter giving me problems. But I suppose it also makes a difference in how the vehicle is used, how its driven, how long you go in between oil changes, blah blah blah. -shrugs-

Calan said:

I've always had good luck with their fluids (gear oil and conventional motor oil), but I haven't tried the XPR oils that FP recommended. Most of their stuff seems WAY over-priced though.

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That is the only thing that has really stopped me from trying Royal Purple. It's supposed to be amazing oil, but at $9 a quart I think I'll pass. Maybe I'll try the gear oil if you give it good remarks, that doesn't get flushed nearly as often as engine oil.

That's the kind of stuff that I love my employee discount for

ktgurl87 said:

That's the kind of stuff that I love my employee discount for

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Same here. I pay like $3 for K&N oil filter. But I haven't worked there for longer than 1 oil change. .

Valvoline vr1 20/50 and wix filter for the last 14 years in my car. I'm about to clock in 240,000 miles on original block and head gasket and my car runs 12's all day long. I don't know about you but I wouldn't trust anything else when pushing my car hard. Look at the majority of people on this site pushing there cars and ask them what they run. The answer will be either brad penn or vr1 20/50, it's been proven to do really well in our cars. It holds up to the heat the abuse and keeps our turbos happy.

Dsmkauai said:

Valvoline vr1 20/50 and wix filter for the last 14 years in my car. I'm about to clock in 240,000 miles on original block and head gasket and my car runs 12's all day long. I don't know about you but I wouldn't trust anything else when pushing my car hard. Look at the majority of people on this site pushing there cars and ask them what they run. The answer will be either brad penn or vr1 20/50, it's been proven to do really well in our cars. It holds up to the heat the abuse and keeps our turbos happy.

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Vr1 synthetic or vr1 conventional?

I just use conventional in mine, but once my new motor is done I will probably run the synthetic. But I don't know I've had such good luck with the reg not sure if I'd switch . My good friend here has a gsx with about 530hp and he made the switch to vr1 synthetic and really likes it. He saw the results of my car and was sold. He's one who has seen inside my oil pan and head and can really tell its been taken care of.

u guys are going to hate this: i run supertech or purolator on my 09 zx10r and, ahem.... FRAM on my non turbo i had. . i used fram filters, cheapest ones and quaker state 10 30 on my 98 rs and got over 225k miles on it. sold it last year and i know for a fact its STILL running. but, thats not a turbo and i sure as hell wouldnt run a fram on my gst. since i never really got through breakin, when i finally get my engine back ill prob stick with dino for awhile longer with purolator filter or motorcraft. then switch to a synthetic. doing 10 40 this time around from the get go. what my machinist recommends.

Rotella and Wix for me. Love the Rotella. Nothing like an oil designed for heat and turbo's!!

So you guys running vavoline vr1 racing oil 20w 50 would you reccomends this oil to people with stock engines and operating temps.

I would recommend 15-40 on any vehicle. As I personally have run it in every dsm, audi, vw I've had

I run a Wix filter and 5w40 Rotella t6 and my car loves it.

Ozone302 said:

400hp doesn't really entitle you to use extremely thick oil though. I had a procharged built 306 91 mustang that made 635rwp and still used 5w-30...

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Cool story, bro....we're working on DSM's here, not Fords.

We're also talking about oil filters, not oil. If the next response has to do with anything other than oil filters, the thread will be closed. We have about 800 threads where guys continually argue about what weight and brand of oil to use- we don't need 801.

I run, Brad Penn 20w-50 with Napa Gold filters, and that's my advice for any dsm making 100hp+ per cylinder.

I have no oil pressure issues with it.

I used to run Royal Purple, but after I spun a rod bearing with it I never went back. When the motor spun the bearing I had no oil leaks or anything, and the cars oil level was perfect before and after the drive that bad day, so it wasn't low on oil or anything..30K miles on the motor when it spun.

EDIT my bad Justin, close it up

Dsmkauai said:

I just use conventional in mine, but once my new motor is done I will probably run the synthetic. But I don't know I've had such good luck with the reg not sure if I'd switch . My good friend here has a gsx with about 530hp and he made the switch to vr1 synthetic and really likes it. He saw the results of my car and was sold. He's one who has seen inside my oil pan and head and can really tell its been taken care of.

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i would like to switch to VR1 synthetic, but the regular VR1 20w50 is doing just fine, cant find any synthetic close by and valvoline is expensive as is. and once you go synthetic, you cant really go back or you shouldent. for now ive been running VR1 20w50 for 1700 miles, 10w30 was for the first oil change. and OEM or wix filters only for the 6 bolt currently have 2050 miles on my motor ...ironically

ive been getting alot of god feedback on wix oil filters so a good choice would be oem wix or k&n with oil heavier then 10w 30.

Beyond ridiculous. It's actually funny to sit back and watch the blind leading the blind with no regard to thread titles or topics.

If guys want to continue busting each other's balls about oil brands and weights without ever coming to a firm decision on what to use....do it in one of these already-existing and inconclusive threads:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/17735-what-oil-should-i-use-merged-2-7-a.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/50612-oil-merged-1-8-a.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/5215-synthetic-oil-merged.html


We also have a small merged thread on the topic of filtration:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-7-study-comparison-test-tests-testing-3.html


O.P.- I've used Wix filters on numerous engines and not had any trouble with low oil pressure. I'd try switching to a 15W40 diesel oil- the heavier oil will likely cure your low pressure issue at hot idle, and the additional ZDDP found in diesel oils is beneficial to turbocharger thrust plates and crankshaft thrust systems alike.