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why isn't my tensioner extending?

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South_Carolina
Alright so I have all sprockets & pulleys lined up on the main timing belt, with the tensioner pin compressed.

I move the tensioner pulley just enough to tighten the belt, and tighten the center bolt, and then loosen the center bolt and attach the special tool for the tensioner pulley to the pulley, having it hold 24 inch pounds. While I'm still holding tension on the pulley, I torqued the center bolt to 36 ft. pounds and then released the tensioner pin, turned 1/4 turn clockwise from TDC and then counterclockwise to get back to TDC.

did 6 full rotations, and it's been 40 mins with another 6 rotations, and the pin hole is not above the tensioner body yet, what could be wrong? The tensioner is not old at all, not really even used with no oil leaks.
 
+1 on what he said ^^ the tensioner is relatively inexpensive and vital that it is in good working order. just pick one up
 
and the pin hole is not above the tensioner body yet, what could be wrong?

If you can re-insert the retaining pin back into the tensioner at this point is sounds like you did the job just fine. I'm not sure why you expect the pin hole in the rod to be above the tensioner body?
 
Well after some more turning over and waiting I decided to take a small prybar and pry up on the swing arm from the tesnioner body slowly,watching the rod go up with it untill I could see the hole in the rod go above the tensioner body, with some extra space, and sure enough, it slowly sinks back in to where the holes line back up :notgood:

I had posted this thread a while ago wondering if I should replace it because my stupid friend left my tensioner outside to be rained on, I guess I should have replaced it but someone suggested to just compress it and use it if there was no oil leaks from the tensioner.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/422942-can-water-destroy-timing-belt-tensioner.html
 
If you can re-insert the retaining pin back into the tensioner at this point is sounds like you did the job just fine. I'm not sure why you expect the pin hole in the rod to be above the tensioner body?

I just thought it did, I mean it should go up somewhat after being compressed? So all the holes are still supposed to line up after pulling? :confused: Not sure what the best way to measure it without a .150 drill bit as recomneded from the VFAQ
 
So all the holes are still supposed to line up after pulling? :confused:

Yes, you should be able to re-insert the retaining pin if the belt is correctly pre-loaded.

As you noted when you applied more tension to the belt the rod moved out and when you allowed the belt to relax the rod moved back in to where the holes for the retaining pin aligned again. If you were to push the pulley the other direction the rot should compress a little more before bottoming out and then again return to the initial position when released.
 
I'm just going to re-affirm what steve said. If the tensioner is new and the belt properly tensioned with the tensioner pulley then the pin should be able to go in and out with ease. The holes SHOULD line up on the hydraulic adjuster.
 
really? I just remember how important it is to make sure the tension is proper, the belt is definitely tight and everythings lined up but why is there the special tool to compress the tensioner on the block? heres the tensioner and the how the bottom looks:

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the special tool is to compress the tensioner when you replace a belt. Belts stretch as they get older which is the point of the tensioner in the first place. The tensioner keeps the belt tight on all the sprockets so it doesn't jump teeth and cause lots of pain and heartache for the engine and the owner.
 
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