The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Questions for Justin...

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

justin can you tell me the specs of what i need to machine my hx40 compressure cover to the stock wheel is 58 /86 and i want swap it want a six blade 60 /86 wheel
Buy the wheel, then do the machining. You can't cut a cover using measurements someone tells you on a forum.

Hey Justin I bought a used h1c and I'm going to use the BEP bolt on housing on it but I can't get the exhaust housing off I've been tapping it with a hammer all around and doesn't budge! Any tips or tricks? I sprayed liquid wrench all around te outside and let it soak an nothing. I don't want to hit it too hard and mess something up.
Lots of Blaster, heat, and a bigger hammer. Be sure to drive it off evenly on both sides or the housing will damage the turbine.
 
they will have to beat it off to its not that hard to do just be carefull and do what justin said
 
have you tryd heating it up with a torch:cool:

That's my next move, all I have is a shitty propane torch but I'll give her a whirl :pray:

have you tryd heating it up with a torch:cool:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Well no luck, been beating with a 4lb hammer and heated it up with the torch not sure whats next. Bigger hammer?:hmm:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Pb blaster it is then I've been spraying it with liquid wrench before I go to work and before I go to bed. Ill grab a can after work. My BEP housing gets here today too not sure if I'll be able to put it on.
 
YEa, I cast a 2nd vote for PB blaster, keep soaking it down with that stuff, aside from a product i found industrially called "kroil" PB is the best thing average people can buy as far as a penetrating spray.

Also, it's not so much about large hard hits to the housing but working yuour way around it with a bunch of medium force hits to slowly break the rust free and moving the housing off. My H1c was a bi*** to get apart, I worked on it for about 2 hours with PB and everything from a framing hammer to a 3lb mini-sledge. I just kept the comp cover on to protectthe wheel up front and set it on a block of wood and tapped it pretty hard while rolling it over to work the force equally on all sides.

once they are apart i like to use sanding discs and other tools to remove all rust from the ring of the CHRA where it goes in the turbine housing as well as removing the rist from the housings little recessed ring.. Cleaning them up to a shiny surface will really help when clocking the turbo while loosely assembled and on the manifold so you cna line everything up
 
YEa, I cast a 2nd vote for PB blaster, keep soaking it down with that stuff, aside from a product i found industrially called "kroil" PB is the best thing average people can buy as far as a penetrating spray.

Also, it's not so much about large hard hits to the housing but working yuour way around it with a bunch of medium force hits to slowly break the rust free and moving the housing off. My H1c was a bi*** to get apart, I worked on it for about 2 hours with PB and everything from a framing hammer to a 3lb mini-sledge. I just kept the comp cover on to protectthe wheel up front and set it on a block of wood and tapped it pretty hard while rolling it over to work the force equally on all sides.

once they are apart i like to use sanding discs and other tools to remove all rust from the ring of the CHRA where it goes in the turbine housing as well as removing the rist from the housings little recessed ring.. Cleaning them up to a shiny surface will really help when clocking the turbo while loosely assembled and on the manifold so you cna line everything up

FInally it came off!:D It did put up a fight though. thanks for all the help guys.

Glenn you werent kidding about about the rust around the CHRA ring, ill have to clean that up like you mentioned.

heres the after math :hellyeah:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Jus, I strip 2 bolts on my compressor cover. They sit next to each other. Can it be repaired or is the cover useless. I have 2 set of brackets that came with my rebuild kit. 1 is a 2 peace 3 bolt and the other is 3 peace 2 bolt.
 
Hey Jus, I strip 2 bolts on my compressor cover. They sit next to each other. Can it be repaired or is the cover useless. I have 2 set of brackets that came with my rebuild kit. 1 is a 2 peace 3 bolt and the other is 3 peace 2 bolt.

You should be able to either Heli-Coil the holes or have them welded shut and re-drill and tap them again. The awesome thing about metal compared to wood when it comes to making a mistake is that it's a case where you can put material back should you remove to much or damage it:D
 
Justin, I have a brand new FP Green I purchased during FP's black Friday sale..it's been roughly 3-4 months in storage inside the original packaging they shipped it. I've only read the first 2 pages of this thread and on the first page you mention not storing the turbo with the turbine wheel facing down because of the "wet" spot. I recently took it out and noticed the fins were a little wet because of storing it this way.
Like I said, turbo is brand new from FP...is this something to worry about despite you saying that it's not bad if it's a brand new turbo?
 
Hi Justin, I was told my turbo shroud on my Garrret 35R should not be sticking out like this. I believe this happened to people with the FP turbo too. This is coming from someone that saw a pic of my turbo> "On the early style tial anti surge compressor covers the inside rings were pressed in and would slide outwards. You can see on that one where the inside ring sticks out and it creates a gap around the compressor wheel. I sent mine to FP and they pressed it back in and installed a roll stop."

I called FP and they wanted $45 to press the shroud back in and install a stopper. Do you know of other companies that do this kind of service? Maybe you since you are turbo expert:) $45 seems a bit too high for something that looks like 10-20min job.
pics
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

and this is what its suppose to look like
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Like I said, turbo is brand new from FP...is this something to worry about despite you saying that it's not bad if it's a brand new turbo?
Nope. They'll warranty any problems regardless.

I called FP and they wanted $45 to press the shroud back in and install a stopper. Do you know of other companies that do this kind of service? Maybe you since you are turbo expert:) $45 seems a bit too high for something that looks like 10-20min job.
Local machine shop should be able to help if it's a simple press-job....but don't expect to get away cheaper than what FP quoted you.
 
Local machine shop should be able to help if it's a simple press-job....but don't expect to get away cheaper than what FP quoted you.

Im curious on what this "roll stop" looks like. If I can do it myself for cheaper that would be awesome, I know a friend that could press that back in but the center section will probably work its way back out since it doesn't have that roll stop.:banghead:
 
I think what they meant to say or said was roll-pin, it would be a hold drilled though both the housing and sleeve with a hollow round pin that slit length-wise to allow it to compress when forced into a slighly smaller hole. The compression of it and it's force agaisst the walls of the hole will force it to stay in place.

I'm sure if you had access to a press, a dill adn a small hammer (and one roll pin - they are bought in packs with many sizes for cheap) then you could press it to where the two outside lips are flush, drill it from the side of the area where the intake bolts on and install the roll pin yourself. Just takesa little confidence and a few tools
 
turboglenn I did manage to push it back into place but its probably gonna work its way back out with out the stopper. I don't think I wanna drill any holes, id rather have FP do it just in case i screw it up. I was hoping it was something that would just press in to keep it from coming out. I appreciate the info though.
 
turboglenn I did manage to push it back into place but its probably gonna work its way back out with out the stopper. I don't think I wanna drill any holes, id rather have FP do it just in case i screw it up. I was hoping it was something that would just press in to keep it from coming out. I appreciate the info though.

WEll, if youn can get it back out youn could always put some loc-tite "stud and bearing formula" on it. it's meant for press in seats and holds quite well, I use it to secure the one way bearings in a 2 speed transmission i make for large scale RC gas cars, and even at a peak 7hp on a bearing only 3/4inch in diameter i've never had one slip when using this loc-tite fluid.

YOu can find it at any parts store usually. Just apply it to the surface that actually presses against the main housingwhere ever they contact and let it dry over night. You should be good to go with that alone really
 
Justin, I am in the process of testing oil pressure at my Hx35. I started off with -4an restricted to my surprise I was only at about 5PSI warm at idle. When free revving the motor it wouldn't go passed 25PSI. I have taken out the restrictor and it is around 8-12PSI now at idle. When free revving we are getting about 40PSI. I don't know how I can test under load with this mechanical gauge. What are your opinions?

Justin, I am in the process of testing oil pressure at my Hx35. I started off with -4an restricted to my surprise I was only at about 5PSI warm at idle. When free revving the motor it wouldn't go passed 25PSI. I have taken out the restrictor and it is around 8-12PSI now at idle. When free revving we are getting about 40PSI. I don't know how I can test under load with this mechanical gauge. What are your opinions?

Update, I rigged up the gauge under my wiper blade and took her for a spin. I can't really go WOT because my clutch is slipping (changing next Saturday) but slowly going up to about 6500 I'm seeing about 42psi. I can't see it going all that much higher once i'm able to go WOT but will be testing it again once my SBC clutch is broken in properly. I would just like to know what you think. I also plan on going to Brad Penn 20-50 at my next oil change. How much do you think that will affect pressure? I appreciate your advice and thanks in advance man.
 
Something's wrong if you're not seeing over 42psi unrestricted from the filter housing. :confused:

By the way- engine speed has a direct effect on oil pressure; load does not. Doesn't matter if you're driving or free-revving when checking pressure...although the final measurement should be taken with the engine at full operating temperature.
 
Well I don't know what else I can do? Maybe a heavier oil? I probably have a dying oil pump :(
 
I would suggest replacing/rebuilding the oil pump ASAP. I also recomend using ONLY genuine mitsubishi parts on such a vital item.. While you're in there might as well do a water pump swap (again a real mitsu one will last damn near 100kmiles while parts store units are good for about 20-30k if you're lucky)

If you haven't done a BSE, nows also the time to at least do it the easy way and order the stub shaft for the oil pumpside and you can just pull the belt to the other shaft if you don't want to get in there and put some bearings in spun out of alignment.

Doing a BSE will also raise your pressure some and before long you'll be like the rest of us fighting to port the OFH or clipping thye spring to try and get pressures under 80 to 100psi at anything over 5k RPM

BUt i have to agree with justin, unlesssome one has already been in there modifying the housing or spring to lower the pressure, there's definitely a failure taking place at the oil pump and it's something to not put off for any longer than you have to in order to get the parts and tear the car apart to put them in, otherwise you might find yourseld doing an engine rebuild/replacement
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top