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98 talon tsi road racer

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U just keep giving me ideas! Hear this one out.Hood. Delete bump and moldin a srt neon scoop. Glass it, release it then deskin hood, then glue and glass the fiber glass skin to steel stucture? Im thinking it will alow me to help set hieght to fenders while keeping it bolt on.
 
U just keep giving me ideas! Hear this one out.Hood. Delete bump and moldin a srt neon scoop. Glass it, release it then deskin hood, then glue and glass the fiber glass skin to steel stucture? Im thinking it will alow me to help set hieght to fenders while keeping it bolt on.

I think I follow what you are trying to do, when you say structure you mean the reinforcements below the metal skin?


But i think we better discuss it over phone.
 
Yeah like removing a door skin.eccept with the hood and instead of a metal skin a fiberglass in its place. It wouldnt be a wieght reduction more cosmetic.
 

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Very nice work man, I will have to hit you up and swing by to check it out in person one day...you had pmed about this and we met at the tropical park meet last year.
 
Very nice work man, I will have to hit you up and swing by to check it out in person one day...you had pmed about this and we met at the tropical park meet last year.

Be glad to have you over, I will be down south this wkend until tuesday, just give me a call.
Havent been to other meets, been busy on the car, maybe I have it to a point that i can put it on the trailer and take over.
 
Dont really like front bumper but it is what I have, will modify for cooling ducts to radiator and brakes and oil cooler and attach splitter, still lots of work ahead

I have a 2GA front bumper off a 96 Talon TSi, I doubt I will ever use it. Maybe we can work something out if your interested. I like everything you have done so far! Great work arrowhead:thumb:
 
I have a 2GA front bumper off a 96 Talon TSi, I doubt I will ever use it. Maybe we can work something out if your interested. I like everything you have done so far! Great work arrowhead:thumb:

Thanks for the offer, the one I have even though I looks AWFUL,it is what I have, this apparently is part of the kit, I dont know who makes these but they are bad, the only good thing is that it is fiber and it will be easy for me to modify, It will probably not look as bad, but It does have nice holes that I can use for brake cooling and maybe oil cooler.

Thanks for your offer again I will keep it ind mind,

this man needs a 2gb front bumper for the talon ASAP :D

this is INSANE...subscribed!!!

What is insane, the build, the bumper or me? Ha Ha


Thanks for looking in.
 
the build is so awesome!!!! the build is crazy and i love it. :D you must have patience to do this all, and the way you weigh and catalong it all with picts is great. thanks for choosing a dsm to have fun with :)

i have a 2gb talon bumper in storage that i would give you if u were closer. if u can get an OEM front end on it that would be awesome and not as ricey. i know you are working with what you have.

a local junkyard has to have some DSMs for you to work with :)
 
the build is so awesome!!!! the build is crazy and i love it. :D you must have patience to do this all, and the way you weigh and catalong it all with picts is great. thanks for choosing a dsm to have fun with :)

i have a 2gb talon bumper in storage that i would give you if u were closer. if u can get an OEM front end on it that would be awesome and not as ricey. i know you are working with what you have.

a local junkyard has to have some DSMs for you to work with :)

Thanks for the offer, it is nice of you, I know this thing looks ricey and I never like it but as I me tioned before it is made out glass it s not very heavy, But this will be cut shaped and a splitter added and as long as it is functinal I dont worry much about the looks.
 
looking great!

what group and class will you be racing in? im in the process of parting out a nasa gts bmw and looking for a donor car for nasa performance touring. scouting out a 97 eclipse gts this friday.

did you mold the roof? mind sharing info on what kind of weave/ounce do you use for the doors/roof/hatch?
 
looking great!

what group and class will you be racing in? im in the process of parting out a nasa gts bmw and looking for a donor car for nasa performance touring. scouting out a 97 eclipse gts this friday.

did you mold the roof? mind sharing info on what kind of weave/ounce do you use for the doors/roof/hatch?

Thanks for looking in.

I am not very familiar with NASA rules or their class breakdown, mine will be a wheel to wheel race car if that helps you any, in SCCA it looks like it may fall under STA but I really dont mind, with this car I will build it and then let the chips fall where they may, this time I am doing it just to have fun.

The roof was a beneficial mistake, it started out only as an overlay, and since I had to do this outside , the sun came out and the person helping me left some bad bumps on the surface, seeing that it was too bad, I am kind of picky sometimes, I went ahead put more glass on it, reinforced it and that then became my mold for the roof, the white one you see is a cast of that NEW mold.

This mold does not conform to what a regular mold is, as it has no mechanical gel coat and the surface you would be casting on it is just resin.

Let me explain this, any overlay you make will be a mold on the opposite side, "the part you are casting against".

Since a lot of these parts are prototypes and they are going to be changed, modified or altered, I will make a thin overlay and then do all the changes to it,
it will already be fiber, I make them very thin so they could even be cut easily with large scissors or box cutters and sanding, then after all the changes I will cast a final mechanical mold, if required.
Usually on the overlay only, my 1st layer is 3/4 mat, 2nd another 3/4 or 1 1/2 mat, 3rd the ligthest cloth usually 4 oz. that I can find, this is most important since this is what I call my sacrificial finish, since this layer will almost disappear when you are done sanding it, then I go to the back of it, sanded it
to brake the glaze and reinforce it.

I will give you the make ups of the different parts later as I have to run now but hope what I have explained so far will help you, if you have any questions feel free to ask, dont feel bad and I know a lot of people have problems thinking backwards but once you learned this it is not that hard.

arrowhead
 
i havent run with SCCA. original aim was scca and improved touring in a neon but then switched to the bmw and NASA.

thanks for the process info - ive made a couple parts and never had any baselines to use for autoracing. my splitter (goes to front axle) i used 6 layers of 18 ounce mats and i can confirm it can survive getting ripped off at 130mph and is good for 30' to 40' aerials. course it weighs 20lb.

my first car payment was on an eclipse gst back in 1990 so decided to switch to it for track duty. will you be doing spherical on the suspension?
 
i havent run with SCCA. original aim was scca and improved touring in a neon but then switched to the bmw and NASA.

thanks for the process info - ive made a couple parts and never had any baselines to use for autoracing. my splitter (goes to front axle) i used 6 layers of 18 ounce mats and i can confirm it can survive getting ripped off at 130mph and is good for 30' to 40' aerials. course it weighs 20lb.

my first car payment was on an eclipse gst back in 1990 so decided to switch to it for track duty. will you be doing spherical on the suspension?

Never seen 18 oz mat, what you used was it a very heavy woven glass?
For a splitter I would use a composite cover with glass or maybe alumilite.
There is no specific lay up, it depends on the part. Also what they call race weight or street weight.
Suspension for sure spherical, but it may be all different I will post something on it but do not want to get sidetrack.
 
Here are some more pics and a little progress.

I was finally given a date by the chiropractor. It will be this monday, I am getting a little anxious since I cant make much progress w/ car being on trailer waiting, I been keeping busy working on dashboard mold, and seat mold, the dash I think will come in at about 5 or 6 lbs.
This "DOWN TIME", gave me the chance of taking a closer look at the bottom structure, from door sills down, and the floor pan from the bottom, this car is weak, like most unibodies, the reinforcements below the door sills are bad, and the strips of thin metal from front to back are a joke.
Those in particular with the age of these cars have been torn off, or bent up from going over curbs or whatever, since I will be removing most of the rear strut tower brace and nothing beeing at the underside of car I will put some extra braces there.
Have not seen so far sub frame connector bars advertised for these cars and it should be a most. This would be good whether,RR or drag these is where this car is weak. This car probably folds as easy as a taco.

On with the show.
 

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Yoour best bet would be to rehang the doors and adjust them then if it is outa wack use somthing like the dsm jack on a piece of angle iron on the rocker pinch weld. Then u can weld in a piece of steel from the bottom of the a pillar to just above the door latch area. Then run one from side to side from door latch area to door latch area.
 
Yes. And to keep you from being the meat in the taco. Put something under the car while u are working on it. Just for support.

Yea, for sure, as a matter of fact this happen to me many yrs ago even having my vette on supports but it slowly roll off and since the car was so low the frame almost broke my ribs, so even on supports you still have to be careful good thing my friend was there w/ a jack.

Yoour best bet would be to rehang the doors and adjust them then if it is outa wack use somthing like the dsm jack on a piece of angle iron on the rocker pinch weld. Then u can weld in a piece of steel from the bottom of the a pillar to just above the door latch area. Then run one from side to side from door latch area to door latch area.

My doors are not going to do me any good remember they are fiber skins.
After I get the car check on the frame machine I will start welding my cage, the cage will have 2 bars from main hoop to front hoop, an underdash bar from A pillar to A pillar, 2 from underdash bar to front strut towers, 2 from main hoop to cross bar at the rear bar that ties the 2 rear strut towers, all of this is a normal 12 point roll cage , but will have to add either on the inside another bar from A pillars front hoop to main hoop, or go under and run them along rockers pinch welds and an X under floor to tie everything side to side.
The roll cage will take care of any flex on the top part but this car needs reinforcement on the bottom, since there is a large span still from front subframe to rear subframe.

I think we agree that this is a very week section.

Thanks for your input.
 
Well finally today, I was able to have car checked at the body shop.

MAY say the following. whoever starts to build these cars for even spirited driving. and do not correct any problems that the car may have with the unibody they are going to throw their money away.

I was very lucky as mine has a small deformation in back of fire wall, what they call banana shape, this can be noticed by small humps right at the footrest on the floor by the A pillar on both sides or only one.

ALL my other measurements were within factory tolerances.

Some kind of subframe connector. either below or above floor must be made.

Here are some more pictures.

Now I can start putting in my cage.
For some reason I cant upload pics,
 
Yea, for sure, as a matter of fact this happen to me many yrs ago even having my vette on supports but it slowly roll off and since the car was so low the frame almost broke my ribs, so even on supports you still have to be careful good thing my friend was there w/ a jack.



My doors are not going to do me any good remember they are fiber skins.
After I get the car check on the frame machine I will start welding my cage, the cage will have 2 bars from main hoop to front hoop, an underdash bar from A pillar to A pillar, 2 from underdash bar to front strut towers, 2 from main hoop to cross bar at the rear bar that ties the 2 rear strut towers, all of this is a normal 12 point roll cage , but will have to add either on the inside another bar from A pillars front hoop to main hoop, or go under and run them along rockers pinch welds and an X under floor to tie everything side to side.
The roll cage will take care of any flex on the top part but this car needs reinforcement on the bottom, since there is a large span still from front subframe to rear subframe.

I think we agree that this is a very week section.

Thanks for your input.


Np. If I get to it I was thinkin about cutting my outer rockers off. Then connect the lower A and B pillars together with a steel plate or tubing then put the outer panel back over it.
 
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