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Need help with oil issue!!

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Sprnt76

10+ Year Contributor
39
0
Feb 26, 2011
Hemet, California
Ok, so here is the problem, car is consuming about 1 qt per week. :banghead:I did a compression test and results are 165,170,162,165. Did a BLT and leaks at the throttle body seals. No oil leaks as well. Using 15w/30 oil. There are no mods, bone stock. Car runs great, pulls as good as ever. In my opinion this seems to much. Looking to see what amounts anyone is consuming, if any, is there any advice as to what the issue might be. This is bugging the crap out of me. :banghead:
 
The oil consumption could be attributed to your piston rings, valve stem seals, or your turbo.
 
Turbo is newly rebuilt, no shaft play as well. If it were the rings, wouldn't the performance be worse and wouldnt the compression be low?
 
Do you notice any sizeable leaks under your car?
If your under panel is still in place, do you see oil on it?

What condition is your PCV system in? If it's malfunctioning, it can cause excess pressure in the crankcase and push oil out of seals, force it into the intake, etc.

Do you notice a little puff of blue smoke from the exhaust when you cold start the car? If so, that's your valve seals leaking
 
Lay off the gas pedal some for starters. You're pushing oil past the rings at high revs..

1998, Stock motor and setup - 13yrs old.. Definitely not a 'spring chicken' anymore.. things are getting loose and oil is sliding by and gradually getting burnt off.

Valve seals are prob tired, oil rings are getting tired, along with the main crank bearings.

Have to take these above factors into play.
 
I agree with post above lay off gas pedal. Also unless you have 150K or more miles on your engine then yes it will consume some oil. I don't know why you need 15/30 engine oil unless you live in a extreme climate but, I would go back with some regular Mobil 1 5/30 or 10/30 weight oils. Just use regular oil no synthetics.

You can try this trick at the next oil change too. When you about 1/2 quart low or more substitute with ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and run for around 50 miles, then change the oil. The ATF will help act as a engine cleaner and help clean the engine internals. Your oil can be working too good and flowing past the rings. Normally an internal combustion engine will consume some oil but if your more than a quart low before your next oil change then you will definitely notice it out the exhaust. If it is not leaking then it must be burning it and sometimes you don't know because it won't smoke until your on the accelerator pedal, best to have someone follow you to tell if that is the case. It has to be going somewhere?
 
The motor was re-done about 9 months ago, block was honed, new rings, cylinder head was done (at least they said it was) you see I and my mechanic replaced everything and did all the work except the head work. Anyone know, is it hard to re do the valves? I am really trying to nail this down and try everything before I have to tear it apart again.
 
valve seals are fairly easy so long as you have the right tools. Snap On makes a nice tool that removes and reinstalls valve keepers with a good thwack of a hammer (~80 for the tool IIRC)

Make sure the piston for the cylinder you are working on is at TDC. Block the crank pulley in place for extra assurance that the crank won't turn. Attach an air hose to the cylinder via the spark plug hole and pump compressed air into the cylinder, just enough so that the valves are riding on a cushion of pressurized air.

You do this so that you can change the valve seals and springs/retainers/seats with the head still on. It takes time to get it right, but it's a whole lot better IMO than taking the head off.


Disclaimer: if valves fall into the cylinder, it's on the person working on the car. the above idea is not mine, it was taught to me from various teachers at school and have been told is an "old school" technique.
 
I and my mechanic replaced everything and did all the work except the head work

Whoops...bottom end done and not the top end?

You have a very strong and tight bottom end and a loose and weak top end ... bottom end is sucking oil down into the piston area - why the consumption is high.

Before doing seals and no compressor available, roll the crank to where all pistons are in the middle of the bores.

Pull the spark plugs and shove a good length of small diameter nylon rope down into the bore via the sparkplug hole that you're starting on.

Then turn the crank where the piston comes up and compresses the rope against the valves...now you can do the seals and not worry on any valves dropping.

Do this with the other three pistons.

Good luck - DSM
 
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