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Clutch Dragging.. please help!

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zrsnopro97

10+ Year Contributor
91
0
May 15, 2010
indianapolis, Indiana
Hey guys, need some help with my clutch dragging issue.

Car is a 95 AWD talon, running a TMZ transmission and south bend clutch. Both were installed by the previous owner and have around 15K miles on them. Unfortunatley, thats all i know about the clutch/trans setup. Im not sure what Pressure plate or flywheel is in the car. I think it has a fidanza flywheel.

I recently did the clutch drag test (put car in 1st gear, clutch in, rev to 7k, see if it moves foreward). Well I only got to around 6200 before the car crept foreward. Also, the trans is very notchy, will occasionally grind going into 1st, and almost always grinds going into reverse. When at wide open throttle, it is a bi*** getting the 2-3 shift.

The adjustment rod for the master cylinder is all the way out. The clutch engages almost right off the floor.

Basically, I need to know where to go from here???? What do I check next? I really am trying to save the synchros in the trans. Any help at all would be appreciated.
 
Have you bled the lines from master to slave to make sure there's no air in the system? How does the pedal feel? Checked the slave cylinder for proper and smooth movement?
 
Ok, so today I bled the clutch just for the hell of it. Clutch fluid came out black. Anyway, that did not solve the problem.

The clutch pedal if not soft at all, it will definately give your left leg a workout in traffic. It feels similar to my ACT 2600 in my old 1G. The clutch grabs hard and hasnt slipped on me at all yet. I think the problem is not the clutch itself....the problem is that its just not quite disengaging all the way. I may be wrong though.

As for the master cylinder rod. I have not adjusted back to where it should be yet. If it is adjusted now for the most movement, wouldnt moving it back not solve anything? Or just make it worse?

I watched the clutch adjustment video by Jacks Transmissions and the one part i dont understand is when checking the slave cylinder... what am i supposed to be pushing with my thumb? I cant really see it in the video.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
You could be over extending the slave which will cause disengagement issues as well. It needs adjusted properly.
 
You could be over extending the slave which will cause disengagement issues as well. It needs adjusted properly.

slave engagement issues are a bi-product of master engagement issues. if the master is over-extended, then the slave won't work properly. adjust the master cylinder/clutch pedal to oem specs, then adjust slave to spec. I'd also suggest bleeding out all old clutch fliud and adding new DOT3 brake fluid to the master reservoir and bleeding
 
Ok, so today I bled the clutch just for the hell of it. Clutch fluid came out black. Anyway, that did not solve the problem.

The clutch pedal if not soft at all, it will definately give your left leg a workout in traffic. It feels similar to my ACT 2600 in my old 1G. The clutch grabs hard and hasnt slipped on me at all yet. I think the problem is not the clutch itself....the problem is that its just not quite disengaging all the way. I may be wrong though.

As for the master cylinder rod. I have not adjusted back to where it should be yet. If it is adjusted now for the most movement, wouldnt moving it back not solve anything? Or just make it worse?

I watched the clutch adjustment video by Jacks Transmissions and the one part i dont understand is when checking the slave cylinder... what am i supposed to be pushing with my thumb? I cant really see it in the video.

Thanks for the help guys!

When you bled the clutch, you were under the car with a line on the bleeder on the slave cylinder. The thing you push is right there. Comes out of the slave cylinder and pushes on the end of the clutch fork. Just push the end of the clutch fork back toward the slave cylinder so that it pushes the rod back into the slave cylinder. Definitely figure out how to set the master push rod and properly adjust it.

I had a similar issue, and it turned out to be a broken clutch fork. When I was researching it, the suggestions were either that, a broken pivot ball or a broken/popped pressure plate spring. Don't know if there's a way to tell which it is without dropping the tranny, though. They say you should change the fork when you change the clutch, and I've got one data point that agrees...I left the original fork in when I upgraded to an ACT2600 and it broke. They also say the stock fork is fine as a replacement. But it's a bit of work to drop the tranny only to find that it's just the master rod adjustment...do that first.

Good luck!
 
Thanks guys. I will be re-adjusting the master rod today back to stock specs.

I will post results later tonight when I finish. I was researching this topic last night and another thing that came up was a bad pedal assembly. I checked mine out and it seems okay. Nothing flexed or moved when i push the clutch in, theres no cracks in it either so I think I can rule that out.

Okay I just re-adjusted the master rod to where it should be at. Thing was way off from where it should have been. Probably had to move the rod in 3/4 of an inch or so. I haven't tested the car yet after adjusting.

I do have another question though. When i was adjusting the rod and testing by pushing the clutch fork with my thumb...... should the clutch fork have any play in it at all?? After the initial push of the clutch fork to push the fluid away from it, I can wiggle the fork around. Is that normal? It moves probably 1/8" to 1/4" in every direction.

Thanks again

Well I just got back from a test drive after correctly adjusting the rod. NO luck! It actually made the problem way worse and the car was barely driveable. I had to force every gear and it wouldnt go into reverse at all. I guess for now I will adjust the rod all the way back out so I can drive the car.

Im thinking I may have to end up pulling the trans?

Is the clutch fork supposed to have some play in it?? WHen i was adjust the rod and moving the clutch fork with my thumb I could wiggle it around...
 
after you readjusted the master cylinder's rod, did you check fluid levels and rebleed the brakes? also, did you push the slave cylinder's rod in to check that it was moving freely?

If the clutch is a push type clutch, the fork may have popped off of the ball and have the throwout bearing out of the fork end, that's the same thing that happened with my buddy's 240. throwout slipped out of the fork because the retainer spring fell off...
 
Well it looks like I'll have to pull the Trans either way I guess. I did not re-bleed the clutch after re-adjusting.
I'm really close to just ordering a new quartermaster twin disc clutch setup LOL
 
and what if it's not the clutch? haha. then you'll have a fancy clutch with issues instead of a less fancy clutch with issues
 
Well, I made some calls and the transmission is getting sent back to TMZ to be checked out. Ill hold off on the twin disc for now.
 
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