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How to order xtd clutch

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hurricanes71

10+ Year Contributor
149
0
Nov 9, 2011
clarksville, Tennessee
Ok so I done my reading on this clutch and decided I will try my luck with it. Only thing is I heard people ordering it and then adding peices to it to make sure it handles well. Like heard some puting on the extended slave rod, I am getting the stage 4 unsprung btw. But I heard of others putting in stage 3 springs or some. Just looking for some idea's on what I should do to clutch or just leave same before installing.
 
Oh yea besides that anything else?? Basically order stage 4 and oem tob and I should be good? Or should I order that extended slave rod its only like 8bucks but I dont want to mess with things that dont recuire to be messed with if it will work just fine
 
When I bought my talon it came with a lightweight flywheel and xtd clutch...I installed them in my car and I love the xdt.its ebay but works good mine is a stage 2 and grabs great.
 
i ran the xtd stage 4 unsprung clutch for years and for the price you cant beat it i made over 400hp and beat up on it for years
 
unless its strictly a track car i'd stay away from an unsprung clutch

Why, because on a street car it's somehow fun to replace the clutch due to broken springs? Springs on a clutch are a horrible idea and just add more weight, parts, points of failure, and headaches.

Definitely go with the unsprung and definitely do not use the horrible TOB that comes with it.
 
ihi i have a stage 5 in my 89 mirage gt.its at 35psi the clutch is holding up great with tire spin from hell
 
The thing about the springs coming out doesnt just apply to xtd. Ive had it happen with an act clutch and a competition clutch, but it has nothing to do with the clutch itself. After two clutches, i found out on a friends car that it was his aluminum flywheel that was popping the springs out. The aluminum flywheels friction surface wears down faster than a oem clutch... A lot faster. When it wears it gets gets a groove all the way around the flywheel. The groove isnt a gouge. The groove just makes the flywheel friction surface concave all the way around the flywheel. So the pads of the clutch go into this concave making the clutch disc go closer to the flywheel. If it get too close the springs rub and then bam springs start launching out of the disc. Ive used xtd clutches. They work great but yes use an oem throwout bearing
 
Anyone know if power/torque output has more to do with damage to the input shaft with a unsprung disk or if it's more just about how you launch? This is the big thing I do not like about unsprung disks, I have heard/seen/read about people messing up there input shaft, at which point you have to tear the whole trans down to replace it if im not mistaken.... not something I want to do on my DD.
 
I've had spring failure on a Fidanza 4.3 with a new flywheel as well. My next choice is going to be unsprung.
 
I purchased the xtd clutch. stage 3 with 6 puck sprung disk. Great value, streetable, Ran smooth and fantastic engagement.
However, I blew my engine tuning and boosting to 25psi. So the engine is Currently at the machine shop getting completely rebuilt. So I decided to have the shop also balance the crankshaft and flywheel/pressure plate assembly WTF Machine shop calls and says: "We have problems, The flywheel and pressure plate are WAY off balance." By 53grams to be exact (Note: Balancing is performed at only 700rpm) So you can factor in rotational mass and what it will increase that weight to. It would be unbalanced by nearly 5 lbs by 7000rpm. Vibration would have tore my rebuilt engine up in no time. I recommend having any clutch (sprung or not) balanced at a machine shop.
 
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