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Snapped intermediate shaft bolt

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Lucas03es

10+ Year Contributor
285
0
Jul 28, 2009
Las Vegas, Nevada
So I was just getting my driver's side axle reinstalled after waiting a couple weeks to get the proper A/C compressor and bracket for my galant. I was underneath the car putting in the bolts for the intermediate shaft, and the one closer to the transmission snapped, and I was only tightening it with a ratchet wrench! :ohdamn:

There is only a little bit of the bolt shaft sticking out of the block, and I tried a little bit with a pair of needle nose pliers but I couldn't get much of a grip on it. So, what are my options here? There is only about 6" between the block and the subframe. I just want to get this taken care of as quickly as possible, and what type of bolt should I get to prevent this from happening again? Also, what is the torque spec on these? Thanks!! :rocks:
 
Yeah I care waaaaay too much about my car to even think about trying that. I was thinking possibly get my hands on a small drill and see if I could angle it from above the subframe and tap it out. Another idea would be to weld something to it, and spin it out. It was an oem bolt, is it possible to weld to them?
 
Try vise grips, or dremel a slot in it, and use a screwdriver. As far as the bolt, use only the stock bolts for that bracket. They have a dog point on the end to locate the bolts, and a special shoulder to locate the bracket. Any other bolt will eventually break.


The 3000gt/stealth cars have the same setup, but use 2 dowels to locate the bracket, and 2 bolts to hold it to the block. I have no idea why they decided to not used dowels on the dsm's.
 
It's almost impossible to use any of those tools because of how close the broken bolt is to the subframe/firewall.

I used a dremel with the flexible "snake" line and cut a slot into the bolt. Then I used a small flathead screwdriver to turn it out.

I've also used the same dremel tool and kinda started grinding away at it in a counter-clockwise motion and it pulled the bolt out.
 
I think I might try to dremel a slot in it. Does anyone have a photo of these bolts so I know exactly what they should look like?

I got it off pretty simply by dremeling a slot in it, and using a small screw driver to twist it out. Does anyone have a picture of what these bolts look like, or a part number so I can go get some from the stealership??

Thanks!
 
Can anyone verify what these bolts are supposed to look like for me? I am going to be meeting up with someone local here to get the proper bolts, and I would like to make sure that I get the proper ones this time around. Thanks!
 
Sorry for bringing this back from the dead.

I have a bolt snapped off down there as well... short of pulling the block, does anyone else have any recommendations? It snapped flush with the block.

I thought about an right-angled drill, but I still think the space is too tight. As anyone tried with a flex type head?
 
Both of mine snapped off in the block via the previous owner - explains why the axle was shot. Anywho instead of wasting $200+ at the best local price for a right angle drill or pulling the engine/dropping the subframe, suspension, mounts, etc to tap for 2 bolts, I pulled the Intake manifold and AC compressor bracket. We ran it to the machine shop across the street and machine fitted a rather high grade stud, cutting the threads and whatnot on our own because we enjoy being difficult.

Axle is now locked in there tighter and more secure with that single stud than 2 of the stockers could ever hold it. So in short - If you need a quick way to resolve the issue without pulling the engine, remove the AC bracket and weld a stud in the hole closest to the transmission as this is where the Axle naturally bolts and uses this as a spacer. Use a high-grade bolt and get someone who can perform a solid weld. Otherwise get ready for a real headache.

I can post pictures later today if needed.
 
if the bolt wasn't cross threaded then with a slot on the bolt and a stubby screw driver with a vise grip on it use a pry bar to push the screw driver up against the bolt while you turn. you might have to take the axle out to get more room.even if the bot is flush you can still put a slot in it with no problem.what we do at the shop is weld a nut on the broken bot and then extract it but there is very little room to do that in this case.
 
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