Or your timing could be off...even though its sparking and geting fuel it could not be sparking at the right time causing a no start issue.

you're sure its getting spark? I am having a VERY similar issue with my 1.8l and it seems it has turned out to be my ignition coil in the distributor.

I just put a brand new distributor on it today because I thought that exact same thing. Its getting spark tho. I took the plugs out, grounded them on the head and cranked the motor over and could see spark. Did it by hand at first and got a weak spark and then had the neighbor do it and it was a nice blue spark.

If the timing belt slipped a tooth or two, would that keep the car from starting?

I havent really inspected that too closely yet other than the belt isnt broken. When the #1 piston is at TDC, the distributor's rotor is pointing to where the #1 plug wire would be.

I got it to kinda backfire a couple times out the exhaust. Sounded like I kicked a tin can. How would I check to see if the timing belt had skipped a tooth or two?

Compression was still good tho at 180-190 in all the cylinders...

I dont think your timing belt jumped becuase you compression was good.Check the cam sensor and if you have a timing light use to see if your spark is in time.

Goofy question but where is the cam sensor?

I thought that was in the distributor?

It should be on either side off the cames on the head

Are you getting spark on all four wires?

Yes, I am getting spark to all four. Grounded them on the head and had the neighbor crank it over. Nice blue spark. No orange.


Whats the cam sensor look like? Stupid ? i know but I never looked ### I always thought it was part of the distributor, just like the crank sensor is....

4G37 engine

what year is the car? and is it a turbo 4g63?

sorry never mind i just read its a 1.8

I' am not sure on your car. Does anyone else know where the cam sensor is on a 1.8

I am having a similar problem as well. I got my Talon to turn over and then when I shut it off I could not get it to turn over again. All I am able to get it to do is backfire. I have replaced the Cas and it has not helped. I am not sure what else it could be and what else I might be able to try.

The one thing that I am kinda confused on is that im not sure if Pin #6 on the 6 pin plug that goes to the distributor is funtioning correctly....

It goes from 0V with power on to almost 12V when Im cranking the car and back to 0V when I stop cranking the car....should that be pulsing?

I would go with timing is off as well. If there is fuel in the cylinder, and your getting spark, this means your not getting spark at the right time, causing the fuel not to burn, causing the engine to turn over, but not start.

Im just going to ignore this ^ becasue it is in no way related to what we are talking about.

and the saga continues...
Got the new relay in from the VR4, installed, everything looks to be the same.

First crank, nothing, buzzing coming from engine bay now. Few more turns of the key, same thing. Went over double checked it was plugged in all the way etc.

Second crank, fires right up. Idles but not well (I think this is an unrelated cause). Let it warm up for a few turn off.

Third attempt, Car cranks but very slowly occasionally I get a pop and sometimes the rev needle will fly up. A few more key turns and we're back to the buzzing. ( I can probably get a video later if need be)

Whos up?

I replace my 96 eclipse spyder gs with a 97 talon fuse box. I went to start the car but the starter makes no noise everything is functional except car won start. How can I diagnose and fix the problem? Also I know the engine connector was the same so I cut the whole connector and wire into the new fuse box harness

you might have shorted the starter when you replaced the fuse box..my suggestion would be to give the starter a couple of taps with a heavy mettalic object..preferably a hammer. have some one else turn the car over while your tapping the starter and see if that helps.

Ive checked the timing a millions times...its gotta be right...what I did notice today is that now the plugs are fouling out and the oil in the car smells like gas now....Im wondering if its now getting too much gas....I checked the MFI relay for resistance according to Alldata today and the relay seems shot...like it clicks and turns on for the ignition and when I crank the thing over...the Ohms in it were crazy..when I tested it, the Ohm reading was 150-170 and according to all data it was supposed to be 95ohms....so Im thinking that may be the issue??? Its like the plugs are now fouling out tho...too much fuel.

Do the 1.8's have a coolant temp sensor? Sounds to me like the typical CTS took a shit and is now flooding the engine on startup.

Check all your fuses and relays.

Im thinking that now as well. The new plugs I got keep coming out soaked with fuel...the mpi/mfi(whatever you want to call it) may have taken a crap as well...I did the test that alldata says to do to test it and its reading like 150-170 ohms on pins 2/5 and pins 3/5 when I have pin 6 grounded and 7 power. Alldata says thats supposed to be like 95ohms....I have no idea what those pins do but it can hurt to get a cheapo relay and toss it in... Im going to check the CTS today as well...

Coolant temperature sensor is good. Im pretty sure my problem now is a weak spark and too much fuel...the spark is yellow but...if you grab the plug wire, itll kick itself right outta your hand.....found that out the hard way. Again, the voltage to the distributor is good on both plugs. The 2 pin connector has a good ground and 12V...the 6 pin connector is good. pin#1 and #5 are grounds...#2-12V #3 and #4 are 5V and #6 is 0v til you crank the car then it goes up to aroun 10.5-11V.....I have no idea at all....car wont even bump start...

Ok so here is how the car sits the engine is a 92 6 bolt motor running a 98 ecu with the cam angle sensor wire hack to run the 1g cas. The engine is in time, there is correct compression with no leakage and the injectors are squirting fuel. This engine was running before we sawpped the motor due to a cracked block from a deep freeze and not enough antifreeze. The last engine that was in there was also usin the 1g cas and it worked perfectly. Any thoughts on this? Oh and it does backfire at some points though.

Have you checked your TPS or done a boost leak test?

Did you check coolant temp sensor?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html


no start, this could help you.

I just got a 92 auto awd.

The car has been sitting for 5 years before I got it.

I changed the oil, put new antifreeze/water in it, fixed a crack in the radiator, drained the old gas and put fresh 91 in it.

I'm pretty sure my fuel pump isn't working. I can't hear it whining, and when I pull a spark plug its clean and doesn't smell like gas. Is there a specific fuse for the fuel pump I should check, or is the fuel pump just bad?

krazy4 said:

I just got a 92 auto awd.

The car has been sitting for 5 years before I got it.

I changed the oil, put new antifreeze/water in it, fixed a crack in the radiator, drained the old gas and put fresh 91 in it.

I'm pretty sure my fuel pump isn't working. I can't hear it whining, and when I pull a spark plug its clean and doesn't smell like gas. Is there a specific fuse for the fuel pump I should check, or is the fuel pump just bad?

Click to expand...

im not sure about fuse but why not just see if your getting power and ground to pump first.