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ECMlink DSMLink, 1st timer, 3rd gear log - advice?

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rEclipserGST

Supporting Member
1,700
55
Nov 17, 2007
Columbus, Ohio
Car:
AUTOMATIC
stock 450's
190lph fuel pump (rewired)
mhi 14b turbo
tial 38mm WG 10lb spring
1g bov garage mod
ssac fmic 2.5" pipes
3" exhaust
blitz ebc
mechanical boost gauge
LC1 wideband

Just got the car buttoned up, did closed loop and idle tuning this morning. Everything is great on that (idles a little low but still fine)

We started doing a few 3rd gear pulls to get some WOT tuning in but we encountered a problem.

Every time we try to go WOT it cuts out, never able to go above 70% throttle. Wideband was showing AFR's over 11:1 so we moved the sliders down a few notches (but those are only applied at WOT correct?)

Anyway, were pretty new at this. Have been reading all day but everything is usually dependent on being able to go 100% throttle.

Anyone able to chime on what direction we need to go with this?

Thanks
 

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Highly doubt you have an issue with a 2g maf But it does look a bit odd signal maybe check the wiring at least.

But,
The DA maps are there for a reason...

-12% fuel on Stock injectors using the fuel sliders?

If there was any fuel left to detonate you would be getting knock... Next time when going to 50%+ throttle if you see your wideband peg out lean you may consider lifting & Not going almost WOT...

Is this the new trend on tuners? I'm not bashing you personally but it seems to be the new thing around here...

(Make changes with out good reason and with out doing much cruise tuning or logging and then go out and do 3rd gear pulls and asking what's wrong?)

Post up another log with you Idling and doing some normal cruise driving and you will probably get a bit more help(after setting your your fuel sliders back to 0)... .
 
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Highly doubt you have an issue with a 2g maf

But,
The DA maps are there for a reason...

-12% fuel on Stock injectors using the fuel sliders?

If there was any fuel left to detonate you would be getting knock... Next time when going to 50%+ throttle if you see your wideband peg out lean you may consider lifting & Not going almost WOT...

Is this the new trend on tuners? I'm not bashing you personally but it seems to be the new thing around here...

(Make changes with out good reason and with out doing much cruise tuning or logging and then go out and do 3rd gear pulls and asking what's wrong?)

Post up another log with you Idling and doing some normal cruise driving and you will probably get a bit more help(after setting your your fuel sliders back to 0)... .


We were out doing trial and error pulls all day, unsure of the correct direction without being able to go WOT. We tried various things to see if anything would improve (increase and decrease of timing and fuel) the -12% is simply the last idea we had when we left off.

Here is the log we used to calibrate the MAF. Split into 4 parts. Crusing on highway / back roads / downtown / 3rd gear pulls / idle / etc.
 

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A little late. Here is a log of the reset of the fuel settings. A little longer than 15 mins cruising, but oh well. Let me know, I've been trying to get ahold of a local guy to swap a maf with.

Guess the previous log file was too big. Snipped it a bit.

Beginning entering highway I believe for this "1".
 

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No log above....

The signal is breaking up about 500hz, looks fine in the other logs...

It wouldn't hurt Just to put another on an check the wiring... The main issue in the first log is the changes you made though.

Get a log of the other maf going above that and you should be able to Tell to rule it out... .
 
Here is another log from today. I went ahead and bought a used maf from a guy in flordia. So0o0o we shall see sooner than later.
 

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Same feeling. Wondering if its my wires or maybe even a restrictive maf-to-air filter adapter? Its that ebay one that comes with the pipe. I'm tempted to throw my stock air box back on just to see.

Regardless, here is a new log with the maf. Just ran it. Opinions?
 

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Tried swapping the stock air box in due to me believing the air filter adapter plate is the bottle neck restriction. Found out soon enough that I would have installation problems due to lack of room. It's a wonder how it was in there from the factory WTF

Regardless, I am running NO air filter for the moment. Trying to pin-point this going WOT issue. Car pulls a ton harder, wants to go 100% throttle a LOT easier, but still having jerking/studder/cutting out issues. Otherwise, the car runs & drives PERFECTLY FINE. But I mean, its a DSM.... so0o I need WOT!!!

Here is two pics of the previous open air filter & stock air filter comparison. Looks like it could have been a bottle neck issue as well. Here is also a short log.
 

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It really looks like a bad MAF reset output from the ECU to me. Here's what this will typically look like (taken from your log file).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


It's usually caused by a blown MAF reset output transistor inside the ECU (and typically only on 2G ECUs). This forces the MAF sensor into some mode where it's basically unable to report airflow above some relatively low value.

Drop me a line if you would like us to take a look at and/or repair that ECU.

[email protected]

EDIT: Sorry for the crappy screenshot...this forum appears to convert perfectly good PNG files to JPG for some reason.

Thomas Dorris
 
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Appreciate the positive feedback on my issues, were going to test the ECU with the maf reset wires unplugged. Then probably replace the ECU from here.

Will post results.

Thanks!
 
were going to test the ECU with the maf reset wires unplugged
That's a reasonably good test. If the problem is inside the ECU, then cutting that wire should at least make the problem less likely to happen. But it can still happen, depending on what the MAF ends up "seeing" on that input with nothing driving it either way.

Thomas Dorris
 
Removed the white red combo wire fair left on mas. Car is on 10 psi spring via TiaL wg, car goes 100% throttle again. No check engine light on a few pulls. Here is log.

Will be checking ecu & tracing wires from previous apexi safc2 install prior to getting my ecu repaired & socketed. Working right now.

Amazing to feel its potential once more.
 

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Problem is when you repair the ground trace is if you have some type of sensor like a Wideband using the sensor ground instead of a 12v ground or a bad stock o2 shorting out. Rather then just Blowing the ground trace again, since it's stronger it now fries components in the Ecu in most cases... .

Edit: I guess it says that in the link Tom posted LOL
 
Problem is when you repair the ground trace is if you have some type of sensor like a Wideband using the sensor ground instead of a 12v ground or a bad stock o2 shorting out. Rather then just Blowing the ground trace again, since it's stronger it now fries components in the Ecu in most cases... .

Edit: I guess it says that in the link Tom posted LOL

Salt mode you reminded me of the reason why my ecu needed a ground repair in the first place. Never try to splice in a 1g o2 sensor :nono:. Bought a used 2g o2 sensor (at least I thought)

Either way, car is running great. Moving on to a 20g & 1000cc injectors soon. Should have been years ago.
 
Problem is when you repair the ground trace is if you have some type of sensor like a Wideband using the sensor ground instead of a 12v ground or a bad stock o2 shorting out. Rather then just Blowing the ground trace again, since it's stronger it now fries components in the Ecu in most cases... .

Edit: I guess it says that in the link Tom posted LOL

He also got a new ECU ;)
 
How the hell are you getting intake temps that low? Its over 100 here in Stl. Its gotta be hot as #### in ohio too. Nightime log?
 
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