You're bushings on your tranny are probably worn, replace them with skateboard bushings and you'll really tighten up your shifter. Also the cables themselves have adjustments, you can kind of use them to tighten up the slack in the shifter. Next you'll want either the symbroski or Energy suspension shifter base bushings. They're aluminum or urethane (pending on kit) and they'll prevent the shifter base from moving while shifting which also improves shift quality. A short shifter would help somewhat if you want a shorter throw as well.

I agree 100%^^

One more thing, get a weighted knob. I have the weighted 2g leather knob, and i LOVE it.

So how do you change tranny bushings? Is it real hard? I can imagine the shifter base bushings would be a breeze, but i'm curious about the tranny bushings.

nicholasramos said:

So how do you change tranny bushings? Is it real hard? I can imagine the shifter base bushings would be a breeze, but i'm curious about the tranny bushings.

Click to expand...

My little "how to":

1) pull the cotter pins holding the bushings, pull the shift cable off the tranny.
2)Take a hammer/ C-clamp (c-clamp works better) and press the old bushings out. (I used a flat head personally and just pryed out)
3)Press the skateboard bushings in with a hammer or c-clamp.
4) Reassemble.

It takes me less than 20 minutes start to finish to do it. It's MUCH easier than doing the shifter base bushings.

WOW! I just checked out this how to and it looks super easy, and FREE! Super stoked for a new project. Thanks guys. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...nline-skate-wheel-bearings-merged-12-6-a.html

Heres a good write up i came across a while ago! should tell you everything you need to know

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/425909-shifter-cable-stiffeners-install.html

The skateboard rings require a C clamp which can be annoying If you don't have one, check out Split Motorports underhood bushings on eBay for $10 compared to $15-$20 for "skateboard" bearings.
CNC machined bearings perfect fitment not C clamp required either.
Probably the best shifter mod you can do.
Symborksi would come in #2 followed by a B&M short shifter.
All are super easy to install.

'97boostinGST said:

The skateboard rings require a C clamp which can be annoying If you don't have one, check out Split Motorports underhood bushings on eBay for $10 compared to $15-$20 for "skateboard" bearings.
CNC machined bearings perfect fitment not C clamp required either.
Probably the best shifter mod you can do.
Symborksi would come in #2 followed by a B&M short shifter.
All are super easy to install.

Click to expand...

A rubber mallet is more than enough to get skateboard bushings in, no c-clamp required. Normally I'd recommend getting the actual bearings themselves, but I had so many skateboard wheels laying around I didn't need to.

The shift podium also has bushings under it. You can get solid ones that take up the remaining movement. Or you can just make your own.

Sebba said:

The shift podium also has bushings under it. You can get solid ones that take up the remaining movement. Or you can just make your own.

Click to expand...

Those would be the energy suspension/symbroski like mentioned above.

No lift shift is where it's at.

Tyeler18 said:

Also the cables themselves have adjustments, you can kind of use them to tighten up the slack in the shifter.

Click to expand...

Only 1g's have adjustable shifter cables. 2g's do not have that option.

snowborder714 said:

Only 1g's have adjustable shifter cables. 2g's do not have that option.

Click to expand...

I should know that. I got pissed because I couldn't tighten up the cables in my 98's trying to reduce the slop.

So I did the mod today and it feels pretty good. The second bearing went in perfectly because I grinded it down with a table grinder, but the first one went in slanted...On one side it was in 100% but the other was only about 80% in. I was able to get it back on the pin but I'm wondering if that is affecting the "feel" at all. I'm not worried about it coming off (being that there is no way in hell I could get it off.) If its tight on the rod, and tight on the pin, is that all that matters? Thanks