Battery relocation process

JonJames_dsm · Feb 15, 2012

Does anyone know of a step by step process on how to relocate the battery in my 2G GST? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

gbell · Feb 15, 2012

Everyone will tell you to SEARCH, as there are indeed many threads on this already.

I'll just be nice and link to a post that I believe is one of the most helpful examples of how to relocate the battery to the truck properly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html

Good Luck!

Rsawd95dsm · Feb 15, 2012

gbell said:
Everyone will tell you to SEARCH, as there are indeed many threads on this already.

I'll just be nice and link to a post that I believe is one of the most helpful examples of how to relocate the battery to the truck properly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html

Good Luck!

+1 maybe he didnt "search" for the search button LOL

josh1095 · Feb 15, 2012

well, that link is done the right way, albeit the very expensive way. im going a different approach. running both neg and positive 4guage(copper welding type) front to back underneath car. roughly 14ft each and mounting behind the rear seat on that little deck. ill let you know how it turns out. using a 660cca battery. ive heard people have success grounding in the trunk but i dont know about that. i can see problems arising. also makes a pump rewire a breese and you can mount an amplifier back there easier too. im doing the relocate tomorrow, ill pm you if it works and try to upload some pics.
use heavily insulated wire if you go underneath the car. im also probably going to spray rhino liner all over it too just for extra security.

Gostlrs · Feb 15, 2012

josh1095 said:
well, that link is done the right way, albeit the very expensive way. im going a different approach. running both neg and positive 4guage(copper welding type) front to back underneath car. roughly 14ft each and mounting behind the rear seat on that little deck. ill let you know how it turns out. using a 660cca battery. ive heard people have success grounding in the trunk but i dont know about that. i can see problems arising. also makes a pump rewire a breese and you can mount an amplifier back there easier too. im doing the relocate tomorrow, ill pm you if it works and try to upload some pics.
use heavily insulated wire if you go underneath the car. im also probably going to spray rhino liner all over it too just for extra security.

I grounded mine in the back without any issues at all on my last DSM

josh1095 · Feb 15, 2012

intheory it should work. i may try that first. grind everything down clean up front and in back and see how well it starts, then compare it to my way. just out of curiosity. i sure would like to run just one line rather than 2!

bmoha7321 · Feb 15, 2012

Ground the ground solidly in the engine bay. Ground the ground solidly wherever you relocate it. And by solid I mean bare metal. Bare steel. No paint. Extend only the power feed. Why would you run it under the car when there are built in wire runs on both sides of the interior? That are easy to access. And yes relocating does make it easy to do fuel pump rewire.

Gostlrs · Feb 15, 2012

bmoha7321 said:
Ground the ground solidly in the engine bay. Ground the ground solidly wherever you relocate it. And by solid I mean bare metal. Bare steel. No paint. Extend only the power feed. Why would you run it under the car when there are built in wire runs on both sides of the interior? That are easy to access. And yes relocating does make it easy to do fuel pump rewire.

Yep Exactly! :thumb:

etay89 · Feb 15, 2012

I know this is for 1g/Galant guys, but I appreciate it for the diagram (because it features pictures).
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html

In terms of actually doing the relocation, really, you can just take the positive terminal of the battery, unscrew it, cut all the wires (from the fusebox and starter), put it in a power distributor block, grab a 0 gauge 12ft long-ish cable, run it to the trunk, and ground it (which is exactly what I did). However, this is the WRONG AND IMPROPER way to do it as it will NEVER pass NHRA rules (which I believe the battery must be tied down, in a vented box, with a kill switch).

JonJames_dsm · Feb 16, 2012

gbell said:
Everyone will tell you to SEARCH, as there are indeed many threads on this already.

I'll just be nice and link to a post that I believe is one of the most helpful examples of how to relocate the battery to the truck properly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html

Good Luck!

Much appreciated. I could have just used the search button but I prefer to put up a post and get feedback from people who have done it. I'm also trying to network more on this site. Thanks again!

josh1095 · Feb 16, 2012

i ran 4guage one way and grounded the neg to a bolt in the trunk. works BETTER now! cant believe it. also, i saw the track by the door and used that, waaay easier and looks better. putting it underneath would have been dumb

Maverick4g63 · Feb 16, 2012

Guess I went a little overkill with 2/0.

bmoha7321 · Feb 16, 2012

Ah. I used 2 gauge as well. Wong hurt anything. I have a kill switch in the back. I also did a "monster" underhood grounding kit.

fosforito95 · Feb 16, 2012

yea i have my ground in the trunk as well and works great

motozachl · Feb 17, 2012

josh1095 said:
i ran 4guage one way and grounded the neg to a bolt in the trunk...

Same here. IMO its completely dumb to put all those spliter boxes everywhere and running 50ft of extra wire

Kalub · Feb 17, 2012

Until you short out and catch fire somewhere...

josh1095 · Feb 17, 2012

that was my original concern. keeping the fire out of the passenger(cabin) compartment. but when you look rneath the car at all the rock chips and scrapes, you quickly realize if you run it there, it will eventually break down. it was the lesser of 2 evils. and no, LOL

, i dont think im going to have a cabin fire with my set up. ill let you know if i do though.

Anubis_4_99 · Feb 17, 2012

JonJames_dsm said:
Much appreciated. I could have just used the search button but I prefer to put up a post and get feedback from people who have done it. I'm also trying to network more on this site. Thanks again!

The search function has this nifty feature where you can find threads where people have actually done it as well. Comes in handy :thumb:

Around here taking the time and effort to find your own answers is respected quite a bit more then expecting to be spoon fed.

JonJames_dsm · Feb 18, 2012

Anubis_4_99 said:
The search function has this nifty feature where you can find threads where people have actually done it as well. Comes in handy

Around here taking the time and effort to find your own answers is respected quite a bit more then expecting to be spoon fed.

That is a pretty nifty feature! I would have never guessed! Thanks for the insight. :thumb:

josh1095 · Feb 19, 2012

well i gotta eat my words. now if the car is warmed up and i shut it off and go to restart it, wont crank fast. ive got a ground problem somewhere i think(hope like hell). if not, looks like 2guage wire is in the budget. the block to firewall connection is 15yrs old and looks terrible so im going to start there. resistance is good everywhere but as you know, with higher load you get higher resistance.

1996tsitalon · Feb 19, 2012

so when you do a battery relocation all you have to do is exstend the positive battery wire to where your relocating and reground it in the trunk?

Kalub · Feb 19, 2012

Not if you plan on passing a tech inspection at a track. Also, if that positive cable gets crimped/pinched and shorts out to your chassis it can and will start an electrical fire somewhere.

1996tsitalon · Feb 19, 2012

well i was going to fuse it on both sides but then how is the proper way to do the relocation?

bmoha7321 · Feb 19, 2012

There's a writeup in FAQ about how to do it. Puts a relay that the fuel pump runs off of. Works very well. Well written.

1996tsitalon · Feb 19, 2012

ok thank you.

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Battery relocation process

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