I am relocating the fusebox to the glovebox in my 2g and I have my battery in the trunk. How are you guys getting power from the battery to the fusebox and starter and keeping all of the power distribution efforts inside of the car?

Distribution block. This is what my brother used.

This would be the correct way to do it: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html


For all us other people just run a heavy gauge wire straight to/fro

snowborder714 said:

Distribution block. This is what my brother used.

Click to expand...

Thanks man, I have been using your brothers post like gold to work through my 2 cars. Where though, inside the car, did he mount the distribution block? My fusebox will be in the glove box and I have 3 other accessories that will be powered directly off the battery as well.

See this post for pretty much all the info on the relocation.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html

snowborder714 said:

See this post for pretty much all the info on the relocation.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html

Click to expand...

I am in the process of putting together a battery relocation kit very similar to your brothers and I am having trouble making a decision on the main power wires from battery to alternator and from battery to distribution block. We are indeed running the Saturn 200amp alternator and, in the essence of saving money, I was thinking of using Knukonceptz product detail for KCA KABLE 1/0 ULTRA FLEKS BLACK CCA POWER CABLE 50' for the main 1/0 gauge wiring. It's rated to 250amps so I figure it will be sufficient considering we are running 200amp circuit breakers and I imagine they would trip if the amperage rose above 200 therefore keeping me within the specs of the wire. Would the KCA 1/0 wiring be sufficient to handle what we are throwing at it?

I would think that should be fine.

snowborder714 said:

I would think that should be fine.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the clarification sir. You and your brother are a true gift to the DSM community we have here.

Last question I have here before I get blasting on this battery relocation. I plan on powering my Autometer gauges, slim fans, and HID ballasts each with their own, dedicated relay and direct power wire. Normally, I just run these directly from the battery but, in this case, I won't be doing that so, how should I attach the additional power wires to the system? Should I get another distribution block strictly for these additional accessories and branch it off of the distribution block that is already part of the system? My battery relocation setup is identical to turbosax minus the kill switch.

My thought is that I could either add another DBLOCK to the system or mount each dedicated power wire to the fusebox terminals since it will be in the glovebox anyway.

Get a PDS block that has multiple outlets you can upgrade from. Otherwise, you will have to buy them one by one so choose a brand that has multiple outlets to connect all your accessories. There are tons of brands out there, too many to list. You will have to do some homework for the ones you will need.
For your gauges mount one PDS in the glove box. For lights, fans mount 2 that are closest to the rear battery as you can get. You may have to piggy back multiple PDS so, get ready to be creative.

I am to the point now that I can put the fusebox back in the car. I have deleted everything that I needed to and now I've been struggling to design a system of getting it back in the car. So, with this post, I'm trying to gather ideas as to how you've gotten it back into the car. I have yet to cut any wires yet and I am sure I will have to.

Did you just cut all of the wires at one spot, mount connectors, extend/shorten wires, and wrap back up all while in the car? Or did you cut wires individually and extend/shorten?

I cut all the wires at one spot, then extended them all the way to the trunk where i have mine mounted now where the spare tire used to be. I did a very good job numbering each wire with numbers on either side of the cut that way i could extend the wires, solder and heat shrink back together. All you want to do is get all it done and nothing work cause you crossed some wires up.