lc-1 weird readings

josh1095 · Feb 11, 2012

just installed pte 1000s, afpr, lc-1,and walbro.
tested everyone and verified it runs correctly after each component went in. the lc-1 went in last. did all the wiring according to this
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

the black wire from the o2 says something about push button led to ground? not sure so i wired it into ground. it starts up flashing 7.4 then after 15 secs or so of running it starts jumping from 9 to around 11. i never got up to operating temp.
i also configured the front o2 ecu input in linkv3 and turned on narrowband sim. then i created a log. this time it didnt run lean and seemed to cycle ok but i was running rich according to the wb guage, very rich. is this cause of the temps? its about 25 degrees here today.
another note: i couldnt figure out how to run lmconfig. is it necessary with v3? do i run it through the software disc that came with the lc-1? very confusing. will post log from my laptop in 5 mins

this is the log file

ok, ok, ok, wow my stupidity confounds at times. jesus. im a clinical engineer for gods sake! i missed the whole "look through the lc-1 box and actually read the ####ing instructions" part. i just followed that link i posted. i NEED the led. its basically a programming switch. i think only the lm1 needs to run lmconfig though. just from a bit of reading in the innovative box. oh well, let me know what im still missing. i just worked for 12 hours and was getting a bit foggy at the end. only one major mistake though, not bad.

clipto · Feb 11, 2012

the led will blink intel it is warmed up.The button is the power breaker and needs open air calibration of the sensor or it will just read 7.4 a/f ratio.I switched to the aem eugo no hastle.

Arthris · Feb 11, 2012

Load up the software and you can calibrate the WB from there. You do not need the led and switch. You can just ground the calibration wire for the designated time to do the calibration.

josh1095 · Feb 11, 2012

software does not load. its so frustrating. i calibrated it according to manual, put the terminator plug in the "in"jack, ran a gigaware usb to 9pin to their 9pin to the "out" jack. they sent me logworks. that boots up but wont connect. wont even search for a driver. lm programmer just wont start, it says no connections open. ive tried ign off, on, and running. all the same. this thing is a real ####ing headache! im surprised how easy link is to use but they have cave man technology on the lc-1. if i would have known about these issues i def would have picked another brand.

Arthris · Feb 11, 2012

I have two LC-1's and have had zero issues with either of them. You sure everything is hooked up? Do you have a DVOM? the calibration wire has a small voltage on it. You can see if there is a error code causing it to not work. Or if its even powering up

Force Fed 4g63 · Feb 11, 2012

Just wire it and the button according to the instructions. I am electronically stupid but this part seriously took me maybe 5 minutes.

josh1095 · Feb 11, 2012

the guage works. its reading a bit rich at idle, around 10 or 11 but i simply cant connect lm programmer or logworks to it. the wiring has been triple checked. i ran the brown wire to pin 76(2g ecu). even link sees it. but i have to get this thing configured right or else im ####ed. im using a gigaware, which is very versatile. not sure whats going on. the led programming went perfect. it did its blinking and all that just as the book stated. but to use it with link i have to run lmconfig 3.15 correct? kind of difficult at the moment

dude, im not getting my point across. i GOT THE LED THING DOWN. cmon. im talking about connecting lm prog or logworks. its ### they use 15 yr old technology..... or i have the one usb to 9pin that wont work???

clipto · Feb 11, 2012

sorry not to be rude but loggworks sucks LOL

I just us aux to moniter the a/f on the laptop when i had the lc-1.

josh1095 · Feb 11, 2012

well, im tired, battery is dead. im going to sleep on it. i guess ill have to settle with the "led cal" and not set it up properly till i can get my hands on an old laptop w a 9pin out. then i can run the lmprogrammer. it really shouldnt be necessary. i cant find a clear answer on it. but i assume if link says to do it, i have to. well this will give me time to do the stereo LOL

.

snowborder714 · Feb 11, 2012

What do you think you need any of their software to do? You don't need to use it for anything unless you plan on changing one of the output's parameters.

I would say you need to do a free air calibration (using the button/let setup).

Also, I don't even see the LC-1 in your list of values displayed. Make sure to add it to your Displayed Values list so it appears below the graph.

josh1095 · Feb 12, 2012

sno: i was following the guide i posted a link to, i thought i HAD to use their program to configure the output or some crazy shit. now that im up, i realize i was trying to cal it without a full charge. theres my first problem. it should work today.

how do i add my lc-1 to log? its not even under the list. ive selected front o2 to log

snowborder714 · Feb 12, 2012

You've got it setup properly in the ECU Inputs tab.

Go to the Captured Values and Displayed Values lists (under the Edit menu at the top) and add the value to those lists. Then you should see it below the graph when logging.

josh1095 · Feb 12, 2012

snowborder714 said:
You've got it setup properly in the ECU Inputs tab.

Go to the Captured Values and Displayed Values lists (under the Edit menu at the top) and add the value to those lists. Then you should see it below the graph when logging.

thanks dude, you have helped me so many times. i really appreciate it.

its on the charger now, so ill do the cal's in the next hour or so. ill post back if theres more problems. but i think having 11 volts didnt help last night LOL

, left the door open way too long i guess.

rEclipserGST · Feb 12, 2012

The software is not needed to calibrate the wideband. Make sure you run by radio shack to get an LED light & a push button for calibration. Makes it a 1000x easier when calibrating in the future as well (since the lc-1 requires at least 3-4 cal's a year).

I located my things right under the steering wheel column. Drilled a few holes in this removal plate in the dash, kept the car in the -ON- position. Have the car on jack stands to free air calibrate. After both heat & free air calibration are done, turn car over, do NOT kill power to car until you start it. Lc-1wb should show in laptop.

Here are SOME pics. I searched as well, and there isnt as solid documention on a LC-1 wideband instal picture-wise as I had hoped. Especially since they are highly recommended. Enjoy.

TSi Kid · Feb 12, 2012

I like that calibration setup, it's clean.

snowborder714 · Feb 12, 2012

Mine is one of the small buttons on the left side of the gauge bezel. Push button with the LED in the middle of the button.

josh1095 · Feb 12, 2012

ok, recalibrated AGAIN. this time with a full charge. ok, now when i fist start up it flashes (led and guage) for about 20 seconds. the heater im assuming? it flashes 7.4. now i got it to log the wb and run for over 15 minutes. my wb reading was dead on in link(13.8 to 15.0) but the guage was hovering around 8.8 to 9.9 or so. whats up with this? i believe link over the guage, i think its more accurate but im stumped. bad guage, bad o2?

Talondvr · Feb 12, 2012

When i did mine I had to use the same lc1 signal wire for both the gauge and ecu. Thats the only way I could get it to match. Once I did that the db gauge flashes 14.7 on warm up instead of 7.4?? idk why?
By default 1 of the output wires simulates narrowband. If you want to use the 2 signal wires for wb signals you will have to use the lm-1 programmer.
I have heard that some usb to db9 cables wont work. I am using a keyspan adapter and have had no problems.

rEclipserGST · Feb 12, 2012

If you have the sensor calibrated correctly, I would then try to install the software. You require the software to operate the DB lc-1 gauge. My gauge was doing some sort of lightshow & randomisk numbers. But I'm logging thru my laptop via dsmlink, so i dodged the trouble of fixing it.

snowborder714 · Feb 12, 2012

What wire did you run to the gauge?

If you read the tech article I wrote, you'd see you may need to recalibrate an output depending on how you wired it up.

JRSTANGE · Feb 12, 2012

You need to use the same wire for the dsm link and the gauge. That is if you don't go into LM Programmer and change the out put to the same voltage out put so both wires will work there are two out put wires one for narrow band and one for wideband. Which explains the voltage difference the gauge or link is seeing. If you have the xd-16 gauge you can do it with the mini plug. Eitherway get into LM Programmer and change the out puts.

As well if you ever have any future issues update to the latest firmware or the available beta.

josh1095 · Feb 12, 2012

I ran everything according to the link ip posted in the first post. Brown to pin 76, yellow to guage white wire. So I can possible fix this by basically running the brown to the ecu AND signal of guage (white)?

I'm having an impossible time connecting laptop.

Talondvr · Feb 12, 2012

josh1095 said:
I ran everything according to the link ip posted in the first post. Brown to pin 76, yellow to guage white wire. So I can possible fix this by basically running the brown to the ecu AND signal of guage (white)?

I'm having an impossible time connecting laptop.

That's how I have mine. Can't remember if I used the brown or yellow wire tho :idontknow:

Should work.

snowborder714 · Feb 12, 2012

So this is what you followed:

Narrowband simulation install (DB gauge, Logging, ECMlink v3 setup) [LC-1 sensor placed in front o2 spot]
Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue + White wires – grounded using same lug
Brown – ECU pin 76 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/2GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – DB gauge's white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground
*Note – The brown and yellow wires can be swapped in this scenario.

Read the notes under the yellow wire again.

josh1095 · Feb 12, 2012

Sno, that was what I was asking for 10 posts back. Dude, thank u but I did read that, tgats why I was asking how to connect laptop to lc_1. atleast I'm not running as rich as the db guage says. I can see tUyhe real ratio in link. jrstange, ## pretty close,i might pm u for help. Thanks guys, I would not have opened this thread if I could connect laptop and run lm prog

redownloaded usb driver, used hyperterminal to make sure i ws on correct comport. went back out and this time.... durm roll......... it WORKS. ran lmcofig 315 and programmed both outputs identical and the guage finally reads correctly. sno or another mod, please put resolved on this. im so fn happy it finally connected.

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