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AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

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Well finished our awd swap,no problems yet,feels awesome having traction.
Thank you guys for all the help much appreciated:)
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Quick question - I can't seem to find the drive shaft to diff bolts. Anyone knows what grade, length and what washers are needed?

Thanks
 
Fired up my car yesterday for the 1st time in almost a year. Still needing the driveshaft however to finish my swap.

But anyway, I put in 5 gallons of fuel and my gas gauge is on empty. Shouldn't it be about half a tank with that much fuel in it? Anyone ever figure out the wiring issue with the gauge not working properly? Gotta figure out about how much gas I have in my tank.
 
Yes I do. But how much? Would imagine shipping it was be a fortune and a headache to pack it. Lol.
 
turboglenn said:
I used the wiring diagram in this thread, what gets most people into thinking the wires are wrong is having the sending units slightly twisted when installing themback into the tank and they hang up and won't read right (it's only a hair off to cause this issue and i dealt with it cause after i did the wiring i KNEW i had it right but the thing said below E with more than 5 galllons in it, so i loosened the caps, twised the hanger/sender pieces to align them correctly and re-tightened the caps and viola it was working)
Click to expand...

Did you have to do both units? Or just one? Since mine's doing the same exact thing. Just wondering. Pain in the butt. Thanks.
 
I need to extend the mid piece of the drive shaft. im gonna have a shop do it, but I want to have it all measured before that.

Where is the best place to cut the drive shaft - in the middle or near the ends?


here's how it sits

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Last edited by a moderator:
If anyone needs pictures of a specific part or item let me know I have tons.
Also for the guys having problems with the fuel pump rewire,I would double check it because I and my brother used the write up on this thread to rewire his and had no problems and everything worked the way it should.
Josh&Jacob
 
I'd cut it in the middle. They'll completely replace the section of pipe so it won't matter where you cut it other than if you screw something up during the cut. I think cutting the middle will also make it easier to measure.
 
dsmtwins2g said:
If anyone needs pictures of a specific part or item let me know I have tons.
Also for the guys having problems with the fuel pump rewire,I would double check it because I and my brother used the write up on this thread to rewire his and had no problems and everything worked the way it should.
Josh&Jacob
Click to expand...

Haven't had time to check and see what's up with mine yet. Just haven't had the time. But the gas light will come on. I'm gonna check the passenger side unit and hope that's all it is. I don't have a hole cut in the driver's side....yet. Really don't wanna drop my tank just to check this crap. Trying to buy my driveshaft on the 6th and that'd be a great time to do it if I have to do it though. Pretty sure my wiring is correct though....I hope.

Question though. Does anyone know if it'd matter if I have my ignition on while trying to move the unit around to see if that helps? Or would I need to make sure there's no power on, etc. Just figure I could wiggle it around and watch the gauge to see if that'd help. Versus wiggling it around and not knowing if that'll fix the issue.
 
v8s_are_slow said:
Haven't had time to check and see what's up with mine yet. Just haven't had the time. But the gas light will come on. I'm gonna check the passenger side unit and hope that's all it is. I don't have a hole cut in the driver's side....yet. Really don't wanna drop my tank just to check this crap. Trying to buy my driveshaft on the 6th and that'd be a great time to do it if I have to do it though. Pretty sure my wiring is correct though....I hope.

Question though. Does anyone know if it'd matter if I have my ignition on while trying to move the unit around to see if that helps? Or would I need to make sure there's no power on, etc. Just figure I could wiggle it around and watch the gauge to see if that'd help. Versus wiggling it around and not knowing if that'll fix the issue.
Click to expand...

if you need any help wed be willing to lend a hand since were right around the corner from you.
good luck man
 
Thanks. I'll have to see what I can do. My time is just so limited. Ugghhh...
 
gorf said:
I strongly recommend that you pay a little more and get the best rivets, Cherry max available at:
Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co.
Also check them for metal glue.

You can also use hardware store rivets, but they are not as strong. When I did mine this is what I used and for adhesive I used JB Weld. Use 1/8 x 3/8 long STEEL rivets, DO NOT use aluminum rivets. Besides not being as strong there is a reaction of dissimilar metals with aluminum. Even using hardware store rivets I think it was over kill.
Click to expand...

Which head to use? Also, they have options like Dash, Diameter (in .XXX format), and Grip Range. Have no idea which one to go with. They have 4 different options for the type of Cherry Max rivets.
 
Okay so I got my driveshaft in yesterday thanks to Dsmwookie. Looking to have everything completely installed next Friday when I get paid cause I forgot that I need gear oil and the nuts and bolts to hold everything up. I'm still wondering about the whole rivet thing because I have no clue what'd be best to use. I did a search for "Rivet" at the Home Depot website and this is everything it came up with...

Search Results for rivet at The Home Depot

Anyone have any good opinions on what'd be best to use for this? This is all I need to FINALLY complete this....and to fix my fuel level gauge.
 
Posted by gorf a few pages back regarding rivets.

gorf said:
This is in reference to an earlier post that I made about using pop rivets to hold the axle carriers in place. Three years later, autocross and drag strip use and no signs of movement.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...guys-enter-here-advanced-merged-2-07-a-6.html
Here is a little more detail, sorry I did not document fully when I did it.

I strongly recommend that you pay a little more and get the best rivets, Cherry max available at:
Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co.
Also check them for metal glue.

You can also use hardware store rivets, but they are not as strong. When I did mine this is what I used and for adhesive I used JB Weld. Use 1/8 x 3/8 long STEEL rivets, DO NOT use aluminum rivets. Besides not being as strong there is a reaction of dissimilar metals with aluminum. Even using hardware store rivets I think it was over kill.

This is assuming that you already have your fwd carriers removed and the awd carriers ready to go in.

Do a number of dry fits to make sure they lay flat against the bottom of the car. Clean off burrs and flatten so they lay flat. Strip the paint only where the carrier will actually lay on the car. It might be easier to just strip a larger area and then lay tape where the carrier will touch and spray paint it, them pull the tape. Do the same on the carrier, strip the paint where it will touch and make sure the middle that does not touch is painted.

You now have the carrier straighten, burrs removed and paint stripped. Place the carrier exactly where it is to go and drill two 1/8 holes in the middle where you will start riveting, one on either side. Insert rivets but don't "pop" yet, check your fit.
Once you are happy with the fit, mix up your glue, lay a nice heavy bead long the area that will touch, position it and the re-insert your first two rivets and pop. If you really want to protect it from rusting, dip the end of the rivet in zinc chromate primer before inserting and popping, this will seal the hole completely with zinc and help prevent rusting.

Now work your way FROM THE MIDDLE. Drill a hole insert pop rivet and pop then move on to the next spot. This will insure that the carrier is drawn down tight to the car.
Try to keep them 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch apart. Because of the metal that you removed drilling the awd carrier out there will be spots that you cannot hold the 1/2 inch. Don't worry about it, you will still have a lot of rivets in it.
When done riveting, spray paint and coat with spray undercoating.

Advantages are you don't have to know how to weld, own a welder or find someone to come to your garage to weld for you. Of course if you are in a fully equipped commercial garage, this is not an issue. The second advantage is this will be STRONGER than 6 or eight spot welds.
The third advantage is - this is a biggie - you don't have to strip out your interior. If you weld, you will catch your interior on fire if you don't remove it.

I’ll try to scrounge up some picture and photo shop them if I have to, but I don’t have them right now.
Click to expand...

:dsm:
 
v8s_are_slow said:
Which head to use? Also, they have options like Dash, Diameter (in .XXX format), and Grip Range. Have no idea which one to go with. They have 4 different options for the type of Cherry Max rivets.
Click to expand...

OK For clarification purposes, I have used BOTH Home Depot Steel rivets and Cherry Max to build just about anything from an ultralight to metal fabrications for my car.

You can also use either one that you feel more comfortable with. On my drive shaft bracket I used Home Depot Rivet and have not had a problem. I mention the Cherry Max for the following:

"Due to the large bulbed blind head, similar to a solid rivet, the Cherrylock and CherryMax rivets are especially suited for double dimpled or high vibration applications. They can be used as replacements for some solid rivets and are excellent for use in fiberglass or composites as the rivet spreads in a way that prevents crazing or cracking of the material."


When you "pop" the cherry max the head it creates is larger and stronger head than a hardware store rivet. I believe the shaft remains in the rivet also so it is more shear resistant.

so what to use:
CHERRY MAX RIVETS - CR3213 UNIVERSAL HEAD
4-6 dia .126 (1/8") grip .313-.375 (3/8")

v8s_are_slow said:
Okay so I got my driveshaft in yesterday thanks to Dsmwookie. Looking to have everything completely installed next Friday when I get paid cause I forgot that I need gear oil and the nuts and bolts to hold everything up. I'm still wondering about the whole rivet thing because I have no clue what'd be best to use. I did a search for "Rivet" at the Home Depot website and this is everything it came up with...

Search Results for rivet at The Home Depot

Anyone have any good opinions on what'd be best to use for this? This is all I need to FINALLY complete this....and to fix my fuel level gauge.
Click to expand...

DO NOT USE THOSE HOME DEPOT ALUMINUM RIVETS - USE STEEL ONLY!!

There is an action of dissimilar metals when you use aluminum and steel together, they rust each other. Plus steel is a lot stronger than aluminum, dip them in zinc chromate primer (if you can find it) before "popping" them and it adds a lot of rust protection. Otherwise just seal it good with rubberized undercoating when done.
 
Last edited:
v8s_are_slow, Would you be willing to take some pictures of the process of riveting in the hangers? I'm at this stage and I would rather rivet them in vs finding a welder and some one who can weld to do this for me. I'd appreciate it! Thanks
 
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