Hey everyone... I have a problem with my car. My car stalls whenever im moving/rolling along and depressed the clutch. As the car rolls along (clutch pedal depressed, speed doesnt matter 20mph or 80 mph it always stall ) the RPMs drops to 900, then drops to ZERO no matter how fast or slow you are going. The car idles just fine when it's stopped (with clutch depressed) there are no strange noises are anything like that, it only happens when Im rolling with the clutch in.....?
The car is a 2nd gen talon 95... I have a lot of mods but my previous eclipse never had these issues.... (the engine is out of my 95 eclipse gst) I have new vacumn lines, I checked for leaks(none found) and I tried different speeds to see if the stall was the same... and yes it is...
Is there a reason my engine is dieing in nuetral? There is one thing that was not connected when I installed my JMM intake manifold... There was no spot to install the small capacitor thingy that seem to go to the ignition system of the car..

On my DSM link setup my HP appears to be in the high 400 to low 500hp range and it pulls pretty clean up top with no break up from my spark plugs. So im pretty baffled with whats going on here..

Is your bov vented or recirculated?

I had the same problem with my 98 gst it was all stock .... I was told that it my have been a boost leak or even as serious as crank walk ..... But need less to say I sold the car before I found out what the problem was. So I am curious to see what it ends up being as well?

Anubis_4_99 said:

Is your bov vented or recirculated?

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x2

Or boost leak

If you vent to the atmosphere, your ECU is expecting X amount of air when the throttle plate closes(clutch pressed in/ gas off). That X amount of air is being blown into the outside air so your ECU is trying to compensate for it and ends up flooding the engine with too much fuel. One work around is to "Enable Idle Air Clamp" and adjust it until its correct.

Thats some great advice... @ using the idle clamp.. I never enabled that. My BOV is recirculated.. It just dosent make any sense to me. Why at idle I can press my clutch in and never have any issues but as soon as I pull off to say 20mph and press and hold the clutch in the car dies.... ?

I got to post a log up with my dsmLink... this crap needs to stop... . DO you guy think it has something to do with the small capacitor not being hooked up?

There is a rolling idle speed within the ecu. For some reason its set lower than standing still. Ive fought with it on my Talon. If you richen it up at idle it should fix ## issue. Thats what Ive done

Check neg battery cable.

Negative cable is good... I have no charging issues.. Is there a way to set my rolling idle speed up higher using dsmlink? That sounds like my problem, once rolling the car cannot keep a consistent idle speed with no load on the engine...

Check out this engine stall log.. If you can view the clutch recorded in the log you will see it go from 1=undepressed to 0=depressed... the car just dies...

Here is my car accelerating from 0 to 90mph with street tires....

I can tell you exactly why. go to dsmlink, then Ecu config, then Rpm/Tps, then un click no lift to shift, don't worry I had this problem once. took me for ever to figure it out

there ya go

and anti lag isn't very good for your turbo

Thanks.. I got to try this on Sunday... when I finally get off work...

My tranny takes forever to shift from 1st to 2nd.... I guess it will need to be rebuilt soon...

Not a problem. I am 100% positive this is you issue. As far as shifting time, whats the mileage on that fluid? does it grind when shifting to second?

No grinding, it just seems like the tranny needs quite a bit of time to slow down before it allows me to shift from first to second.. The clutch is adjusted with more throw and it only happens in the 1st to 2nd shift. The fluid is new MT 90 and its at the proper level. If you look at my second log it takes almost 1 second to shift to 2nd gear. If that sucker would drop into gear like its suppose to I would be at least a half of a second quicker to 90 mph... Do you think this car is capable of the 12 second range? I havent been to the track yet for times......

looks like id would run high 12s low 13s

njdaewoo said:

Thats some great advice... @ using the idle clamp.. I never enabled that. My BOV is recirculated.. It just dosent make any sense to me. Why at idle I can press my clutch in and never have any issues but as soon as I pull off to say 20mph and press and hold the clutch in the car dies.... ?

I got to post a log up with my dsmLink... this crap needs to stop... . DO you guy think it has something to do with the small capacitor not being hooked up?

Click to expand...

small capacitor=injector/coil pack resistor?

did disabling the NLTS work? and i agree, antilag is NO good for your turbo.. unless you can afford to rebuild or replace it more often then the average dsmer would like

Check crank end play, my 96 gst started having this happen before it crankwalked. Im not jumping to conclusions but its better to atleast rule it out before you start throwing money at smaller stuff.

its defiantly no lift to shift. have you tried driving your car when you accidently click it? same symptoms.

just curious does crank end play really make your car stall when you shift? like same feeling as a non recirculated bov or something different. or are you talking about the clutch issue?

You could also try checking the "Disable idle switch while moving" box. This "will make the ECU believe that the throttle is open whenever the car is moving, disabling closed-loop idle rpm control and coasting fuel cut when the car is moving."

This may work if you want to keep NLTS.