The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

OK new question. Anyone body thought of running the cables through the shifter cable bushings. I thought it was pretty smart. Wires go straight through the bushings. Then goes off to the right side to keep away from the main engine harness/ECU. It follows under the center console under the rear seats and then off to the passenger side where. Here are some pics.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

(In this photo the two lines going down are the shifter cables. The one going kind of up is a power cable).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


It's not complete (obviously), but I like how the shifter cable bushings keep the wire(s) from touching the metal. I plan to run two 4ga wires through as well and put the power distribution box under the dash in the center.
 
I ran my RCA's, iPod cable, gps receiver wire, USB for my aem and remote through the console on the left side but I wouldn't run the power wire through there. Too many wires/ electronics including modules and the ecu under the front of the console. Not to mention lots of moving devices like shifter and e brake. Safest way I found was to run a single 2 gauge wire in the plastic harness protector that runs from front to back on the passenger side then split it under the dash if you want to go down to two 4 gauge. Keeps it out of the way and protected.
 
I have a 1/0 wire ran from the trunk straight to the terminal on the starter. What size circuit breaker should be on this wire at the battery?
 
I have done some research and it leads me to believe that class K welding cable would be the best route for a battery cable, what does everyone think of this cable, 1/0 Welding Cable Class K | WireAndCableToGo.com

This might be better since its fire resistant http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Industrial-Cable/Welding-Cable/1-0-Welding-Cable-Class-M-UL-CSA.html

Chase Bays uses class K cable too for battery cable

Chase Bays 2 Gauge Battery Cable and Terminals - Universal Chase Bays - ChaseBays.com

Chase Bays 4 Gauge Battery Cable and Terminals - Universal Chase Bays - ChaseBays.com
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure if I saw this mentioned anywhere, so I apologize if it's been brought up already, but instead of running a wire from the B terminal of the alternator, I simply integrated my fuel pump re-wire into my cut-off switch circuit. Logically, it seems to be a safer alternative and it passes tech without issue.

Another avenue for parts sourcing is your local marine/boating supply stores. I picked up my distribution post, 2gua. wiring, terminals and fuses for significantly less that I found anywhere else.

I did my relocation on my 2G FWD, simply for the reason of freeing up space under the hood. Someone else mentioned it earlier on, but it saves a bunch of time having to remove the battery and try when pulling the trans. (which I tend to do a lot!)

I removed the spare tire mount and washer bottle and installed my box in the spare well. It sits flush with the deck surface of the rest of the trunk, and I have a sheetmetal cover that mounts on top, (I have since made something much better that the one pictured in my llinks.) so I still have a completely useable hatch space if needed.

I'm using a rod style cut-off that comes out thru the rear access hole under the license plate. When racing, I can flip up my plate and install the rod. Otherwise, it's disconnected and the rod sits in my toolbox.

I'm getting ready to go to a smaller battery, probably a Braille or Odessey, so I will have to figure something out about a new enclosure.

Pics can be seen HERE

And a couple quick pics below.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Hi
I'm a electrician for the French distribution company, i know perfectly the rules for the protection selectivity.
I work on 48V to 20000V, underground and air lines.

I think a fast acting fuse like the ANN has best time response for circuit protection instead an ANL.
With a breaker in line you have the best of the two world...

What you think about that ?

Remy
 
Well since this is the thread for battery relocations, I figured I'd ask here. I know a lot of people get each of the parts themselves for a battery relocate, but I was wondering if the relocation kits are a good idea to go with. For example, how is this kit from JEGS?:

JEGS Performance Products 10275 JEGS Battery Relocation Kits

For now, I just want to have less clutter in the engine bay. I don't mind if it's not NHRA approved for now. I can change that later. As of now, I just want the dang thing in the trunk LOL.

Are there more parts I'd need that are not included with the kit? A kit would just make things easier for me.

Anyone?
 
Last edited:
I'm about to order the rest of the parts to complete my relocation and I had some wiring questions. :aha:

First of all I have a 1g and I have been following gofer, turbosax, and Lofty's relocation examples.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here is Lofty's relocation diagram. (I'm referencing this because he has a 1g)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here is the diagram of what I plan to implement (I added thru panels and removed the kill switch, yes I will add the kill switch later if I do any NHRA sanctioned racing).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the distribution block I'm about to order (all 150A).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the fuse I'm about to order (150A).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the circuit breaker I'm about to order (2 x 150A).

QUESTIONS

1) I just bought a re-manufactured OEM 1g alternator (75A) with a lifetime warranty. Are the fuse/circuit breaker thresholds of 150A still correct in my case?

2) There is a stock wire from the stock alternator fuse that went to the positive battery terminal.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Is this the correct wire that goes into the distribution block? (like in the diagram)

3) I have a stock wire that went to the negative side of the battery and a stock wire that went to the positive side of the battery and both connect to a big wire that goes to the starter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm assuming I cut the negative wire and connect the positive wire to the other port of the distribution block? (like in the diagram). I'm trying to avoid pulling off the wire loom, I'd rather just cut the wire at the base.

4) This wire was going to the positive side of the battery.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Do I just leave it alone and bolt it somewhere?

5) Would it be a lot easier to put the distribution block in the engine bay and just run one wire from the distribution block through the firewall to the battery? (then I could just trim these stock wires and stuff them in the distribution block which makes things a bit easier)


Whew ok that's all the questions I have for now. I would feel a lot better with feedback from you guys. Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You'll at least need some kind of distribution block seeing as power from the battery goes to a few different locations in the engine bay.

Ideally you'd want to have a circuit breaker and/or fuse in case something goes wrong.

But I think that would be a fine starting point.

Thanks snowborder. So if I was to get this kit, a distribution block, and a circuit breaker, would that be enough for the relocation? Or are there more parts I'd need? I figured the distribution block's purpose is to distribute power to different locations (duh) but don't know what purpose a circuit breaker serves to do.

AskDrStupid (above me) provided a link to an ANL fuse holder. Would that be necessary as well snowborder? I don't think you mentioned that in your post so I assumed it's not really something needed.

Do you have any specific distribution blocks, circuit breakers, or fuses that you'd recommend and can provide links of? I can't tell the difference between a good quality one and bad quality one.
 
Askdrstupid-
Fuses and breakers are more directly designated to wire size. You must have proper fuses and breakers for wire size. You can find a chart online somewhere. I am mobile and at work so Im trying my best to answer this for you. NEVER connect positive wires to ground or "just bolting them somewhere". Deloom it and do it right or dont do it at all. This is a serious thing and can and will wreck your whole car if you go about it non-shalantly. If you want to keep the car NHRA legal which my writeup complies to you will need to disconnect the power wire from the alternator and the battery terminal like you have pictured. Its easy to deloom and reloom so its not that big of a deal. You dont want this wire from the alt connected to the fusebox like it is for two reasons after you relocate. The first one is because if you throw the killswitch, the alt is still generating power by the engine, so the car can still run after the battery disconnect is thrown. Two is because you may have battery charging issues cause it has to go almost backward through the harness if you relocate. Battery distribution blocks are just an easy way to not run 7 different wires to the back of the car. You run one big one and then use the block to distribute power. That being said everything looks fine that you bought. You might as well set your car up with a killswitch if youre doing it the professional way anyways. Its safer and will charge your battery better. You can run the dist block in the bay if youd like as well. The last picture you have is where the old battery terminal went. That metal bracket sees power always. You ADD a wire from that to the dist block.


Ishnish. Try taking a look at local car audio places. They usually have all this stuff. I dont mean bestbuy though.
 
Ok, I deloomed some wire last night and I think I am on the right track now.

I see what you are saying about that wire going to the alternator fuse. That's part of the old stock setup (I didn't see the other cable connected to the other side of the fuse that goes to the alternator).

Incorporating your feedback and making some decision regarding wire size, I made this new diagram showing what I'm about to implement.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


These articles I found were EXTREMELY useful in helping me understand what the hell I'm doing.
Fuse Info
Circuit Breaker Info
Wire Info
The explanation of how you can set your car (and possibly yourself) on fire if you don't use proper fuses, circuit breakers, and implementation really motivates.

Does my setup make sense? I'm gonna go pick up parts at Car Toys and Napa soon. If I made any mistakes in my set up let me know. I won't apply power until I'm absolutely sure everything is correct.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So I'm in the middle of my relocation (and a million and one other things as well) and I have everything but the lugs and circuit breakers which I'm still not sure what I should be getting. I will be running a saturn 160 amp alternator and I cant seem to find anything other than 150a and 200a circuit breakers. Can some one please point me in the right direction? Also with the lugs, is there a good place to buy them in person or online? I have 2 gauge and 4 gauge wires.
I will be doing my relocation exactly as lofty did.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html
Thanks!
 
Thanks snowborder. So if I was to get this kit, a distribution block, and a circuit breaker, would that be enough for the relocation? Or are there more parts I'd need? I figured the distribution block's purpose is to distribute power to different locations (duh) but don't know what purpose a circuit breaker serves to do.

AskDrStupid (above me) provided a link to an ANL fuse holder. Would that be necessary as well snowborder? I don't think you mentioned that in your post so I assumed it's not really something needed.

Do you have any specific distribution blocks, circuit breakers, or fuses that you'd recommend and can provide links of? I can't tell the difference between a good quality one and bad quality one.

I honestly don't know if it will have every single part you'd need. I'd have to sit down and draw everything out to see what crimp fittings and such you'd need.

Circuit breaker is kind of the same as a fuse - if a surge of power goes through it that's higher than the rating, it'll pop. A fuse will probably be you better way to go but just keep in mind if you don't have spares, it can leave you on the side of the road. A circuit breaker won't act quite as fast as a fuse. Neither are needed, but highly recommended. All depends on your budget.

I'd check out all the parts my brother used (which are pretty much the same as what AskDrStupid is using).
 
I honestly don't know if it will have every single part you'd need. I'd have to sit down and draw everything out to see what crimp fittings and such you'd need.

Circuit breaker is kind of the same as a fuse - if a surge of power goes through it that's higher than the rating, it'll pop. A fuse will probably be you better way to go but just keep in mind if you don't have spares, it can leave you on the side of the road. A circuit breaker won't act quite as fast as a fuse. Neither are needed, but highly recommended. All depends on your budget.

I'd check out all the parts my brother used (which are pretty much the same as what AskDrStupid is using).

I was actually gonna use the diagram and supply list that gofer posted up on page 14. I just dont know if there are any changes I'd have to make only cause his diagram shows a 97 vr4 alternator as opposed to my stock alternator for my car. I got the budget to cover for it so that's not a problem.
 
So I'm in the middle of my relocation (and a million and one other things as well) and I have everything but the lugs and circuit breakers which I'm still not sure what I should be getting. I will be running a saturn 160 amp alternator and I cant seem to find anything other than 150a and 200a circuit breakers. Can some one please point me in the right direction? Also with the lugs, is there a good place to buy them in person or online?
Thanks!

Kurt,

I bought my circuit breakers from Half Price Car Audio as gofer suggests on page 14. They have a way better selection that local car audio shops and (you guessed it) they cost half as much. They have all kinds of circuit breaker options.

My local NAPA has lugs and terminals. I don't want to have to plan EVERY F*&%ING DETAIL so I'll just buy a few and come back for more or return the extras when I'm done.

I was actually gonna use the diagram and supply list that gofer posted up on page 14. I just dont know if there are any changes I'd have to make only cause his diagram shows a 97 vr4 alternator as opposed to my stock alternator for my car. I got the budget to cover for it so that's not a problem.

One thing you may want to modify is the size of the wire. Depending on who you are 1/0 gauge might be a bit overkill/unnecessarily expensive. To each their own though.

Also, fuses/CB's might not be necessary for the relocation to work, but its relatively cheap insurance for your car and its safer for you. For those of us that are excessively paranoid, a fuse & CB combination just means more safety.
 
Quick question. I have my battery relocated but kept the stock alternator to the fuse box wire, and stock fuse box wire to my distribution block. From the block I have 1 ga wire running to the kill switch. Can I replace the alternator wire to the fuse box, then fuse box wire to the distribution block with lets say a 4ga wire?
 
Quick question. I have my battery relocated but kept the stock alternator to the fuse box wire, and stock fuse box wire to my distribution block. From the block I have 1 ga wire running to the kill switch. Can I replace the alternator wire to the fuse box, then fuse box wire to the distribution block with lets say a 4ga wire?

Sure you can replace a wire whats wrong with that? But keeping your current configuration of running the alternator to the fusebox and then to the battery could cause some problems. Here is a link to a thread where two guys talk about the two different setups. Your setup is shown in post #42.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/350806-2g-battery-relocation-2.html
 
But that is how I have my current setup now is at the bottom of post 42. Is that way correct? I have a 1 ga wire from the splitter to the kill switch then to battery. So if I keep the existing setup just replace the small stock wires with bigger wires, it's all fine and dandy?
 
But that is how I have my current setup now is at the bottom of post 42. Is that way correct? I have a 1 ga wire from the splitter to the kill switch then to battery. So if I keep the existing setup just replace the small stock wires with bigger wires, it's all fine and dandy?

As Lofty says above, you may have charging issues and the kill switch may allow the car to continue running.

Bigger wire has less resistance so you may need a bigger fuse rather than the stock 80A alternator fuse in the fuse box. I posted a link earlier to some articles about fuses and wire size. Also, you could find someone with a similar setup to yours to make sure the changes you want to do will work. I haven't even finished my initial battery relocation so I don't want to answer your question definitively. Hopefully that info at least helps.
 
Back to this thread, I'm not sure what I should be doing with the mpi, abs, ign fuse box in the ways of where to mount it/ power in-out and I see lofty has 2 wires going out of this box to the fuse box in his diagram, why? Any help where to mount It I appreciate.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top