So I borrowed a computer and found out it was my engine coolant sensor. One side of the wire had broken off the connector. Solder some wires. Cleared the code and the car started right up and purrs. Still not getting power to the solenoid wire , have to run the one i made to the ignition. Thank for all your help knew it was something simple

DSM1G90 said:

Don't worry on the CEL light right now.

have you tried to shoot some starter fluid in the INT to see if it catches momentarilly that way? If it does, then we got a fuel delivery issue.

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x2


And check the battery as well. Just because your lights and radio may come on doesn't mean that your battery is good. Ive had it happen to me on a few occasions, lights come on, radio turns on, seat belts go forward when the door opens and comes back when I close it, then I turn the key and nothing, or it cranks but still won't turn over. Makes sure positive and negative cables are tight and clean from any battery acid.

Remember start with the simplest and easiest stuff first, then work your way to the other stuff.

If your not getting a CEL momentary when you put the key in the run position then your ECU is not getting power or is not getting a signal. When this happened to my buddies Subaru RS2.5 we just replaced the MPI fuse.

chadjoe said:

Check the power transistor plug on top left of intake manifold. Mine comes loose all the time and does the same thing you described above.

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Is that the plug that sits on the front of the TB? kinda behind the CAS?

Lavery said:

If your not getting a CEL momentary when you put the key in the run position then your ECU is not getting power or is not getting a signal. When this happened to my buddies Subaru RS2.5 we just replaced the MPI fuse.

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This... A CEL coming on with key on engine off is basically telling you the ECU has power and is operational, checking its inputs and outputs blah blah blah... If it does not come on at all its probably not getting power. I would start with checking the main fuse. Should be in the fuse bus under your hood. Take a volt meter to either side and see if you are getting power to it, or a test light would work as well.

Check the coolant temp. sensor

Talon IV said:

This... A CEL coming on with key on engine off is basically telling you the ECU has power and is operational, checking its inputs and outputs blah blah blah... If it does not come on at all its probably not getting power. I would start with checking the main fuse. Should be in the fuse bus under your hood. Take a volt meter to either side and see if you are getting power to it, or a test light would work as well.

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NAILED IT!! after thats done, then go explore the rest of the sugestions above..

Yelwarc- said:

So a little update, I tried starting the car yesterday as it was a little warmer. Clutch acted fine and car idling went from 1400-2300, then after 5-10 sat perfectly at 900, no flutter. Everything drove fine, but now it feels like 5th gear is mush and a serious pain in the ass to get into. Seems like ~ -35c is the cars trouble area. I talked to my step dad and he's a fan of the coals said they worked great on the farm for the tractors. I have a garage as of the first so i think the car will make it or ill be busting out the coals and a pic

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When i lived in Calgary, my DSM saw temps of -45 degC with wind chill... Would not start, it did help a little when i starting running 0w40 engine oil

See how easy a scanner is to make your life simpler? It never hurts to make your own circuit to the solenoid if you know how to do it, so you might as well wire it in and figure it out later. Glad to hear you found it, good job troubleshooting and tracking down the cause. Your going to be a good mechanic since you can follow directions and use the right tool for the job. Please close this thread if it fixed your problem, hopefully someone will run across this post with same problem you had and now they know how to fix it. Wish you best best of luck in your automotive career, you will do just fine.

Thanks for the replies guys.

I checked the coolant temp sensor and I got 3040 ohms. Ambient temperature was high 60s today so it seems a little high considering the 2200 - 2700 I've seen quoted here in the forums.

Also I checked the voltage going to the coolant temp sensor connector and I was unable to get any voltage reading with the key in the ON position I hear it is supposed to be around 4.5v?

Fuse checked it is good, power is good, Battery is good.

The big Gold Relay clicks once when the key is turned to the on without pressing the clutch so I am assuming it is ok.

I am starting to think it is the ECU unless the 3000+ ohms the temp sensor reading can keep the CEL light from illuminating?

Alright everybody this is my first time posting on this fourm. I bought a 93 gsx not running, the car turns over but will not start, but when i spray starter fluid in the intake manifold it starts but dies once i stop spraying it. so far i have changed the fuel pump and fuel fliter and the coil pack since 1 and 4 weren't sparking. i know the rail is getting gas because i pull the In fuel line from the rail and put it in a bucket and gas started flowing(so gas in the rail). So i am running out of opinons on what to check next. if Y'all could give me any ideas on why its not starting or something to check next will gladly help. I will be doing a fuel pressure check this friday and maybe a compression check.

I have also read and checked some of the things on this post.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

are you getting spark?..check for spark

Is the CEL light coming on when you put the key in the On position?

I will check tomorrow when i get someone else over here to crank it over while i check. But wouldn't it be getting spark if it runs off starter fluid?

Yes the CEL come on when putting the key in the on postion.

If it runs when starter fluid is sprayed in then yes you have spark. You definitely have a fuel issue. Could be clogged injectors, bad fuel pressure regulator, or possibly an electrical problem. You know the pump works as you stated above. I would pull the injectors and clean them and use a noid light on the injector harness to make sure the ecu is telling them to fire. You are on the right track just keep going down the line.

pull the cas off and spin it with the key in the on possition you should hear the injectors clicking, if it doesn't sound like all of them are clicking then have a friend turn the cas and with a screw driver listen to each injector.

cel should come on and then shut off after about 5sec and the stock boost guage should come up to zero, if it doesn't then chances are you have a ecu problem, but you are getting spark so i would think not but mabee.

It can be the ECU.

Mine died in the middle of town, and if I remember, I also had no CEL light .. had to tow it home, pulled the ECU out, sent it to Motoguys for an exchange/rebuilt unit and got back on the road again after install.

That was 3 yrs ago with the ECU being the original unit and the vehicle had 173k miles on it and almost 20 yrs old.

Now I have 187K miles on the vehicle.

-DSM

All of my spark plugs have spark. My CEL just stays on does not shut off and my boost gauge doesnt not zero out just stays down. Is there anyway to check if the ECU is bad?

It sounds like bad injectors to me. If you can open the ecu you could check the resistors to see if any burned out.

Get a set of noid lights to see if the injectors are firing. I had the same problem after I got Dsmlink. It was caused by a problem with the ecu that occurred while socketing my ecu and my injectors weren't firing

Alright I will do that. Ill have time to get to in about an hour ill let you guys know if its the injectors.

Well got time to see if the injectors were spraying and not of them shot out any fuel at all. i know the injectors are good ### i borrow them from a buddy who took them off his running car. I pulled out the EFI(little gold relay under the passager side) could that relay be why the injectors arent spraying?

with the key in the on possition, not cranking just on if the boost guage doesn't go to 0 and the check light never goes off then chances are the ecu is bad pull it out, take off the cover and look at the board check for chem. burn around the caps.

Chimchar1 said:

It sounds like bad injectors to me. If you can open the ecu you could check the resistors to see if any burned out.

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all the injectors going out at the same time. unlikely

since your friend has a running car barrow his ecu and test. but also make shure you check you cas.

doayamaha said:

with the key in the on possition, not cranking just on if the boost guage doesn't go to 0 and the check light never goes off then chances are the ecu is bad pull it out, take off the cover and look at the board check for chem. burn around the caps.


since your friend has a running car barrow his ecu and test. but also make shure you check you cas.

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Alright he has a VR-4 so im pretty sure his ecu wont work. but ill get one and try that. thanks.
By the way what is the Cas? not use to the Forum terms yet.

smokeywater102 said:

Alright he has a VR-4 so im pretty sure his ecu wont work. but ill get one and try that. thanks.
By the way what is the Cas? not use to the Forum terms yet.

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Crank Angle Sensor