Injector 2&3 not working help!!

1992_Talon_tsi · Jan 26, 2012

I have a problem on my 1g, for some reason injector 2&3 are not working i switch them around and even test them and theyr good. Now i checked to see if there was any short between resistor and injector but signal appears constant. The other thing i could think off its either a short between the wire that grounds on the ECU and the injector or a bad ECU. My problem started this day i was on my way to work and the car just randomly started to sound like if it was running on 2cyl after that day iv replaced spark plugs, wires, coil pack but then notice injector 2&3 were not working, i dont have any check engine light on and im going to provide some pictures of my ECU.

mindset · Jan 26, 2012

Well if it occurred after the ignition parts replacements, did you gap the plugs correctly? What kind are you using? It could be misfiring, and as well check your timing and ignition timing!

eatsleepboostin · Jan 26, 2012

I agree with checking your spark plugs first. You said it started after you changed the plugs. I know for sure one of my buddy dropped one of his spark plug. Seems nothing wrong with it and it wasn't even a bad drop so he put it in. Found out he had a bad mis on that same plug after installing it. Replaced that plug and it went away. Now I'm not saying you drop your plugs, but possible you got bad plugs from the store.

jpmxrider489 · Jan 26, 2012

Have you tried replacing resistor pack behind the intake mani. I had the same problem.

bryanwheat · Jan 26, 2012

You can pull the cam angle sensor and turn the shaft with the ignition on to test the injector's. You can also diagnose the spark like this. When you turn the cam angle sensor the injectors will fire. You an unplug them and check them one by one. If they are all clicking than they all have good signal ground from the ecu. If they aren't all working than it is relatively easy to figure out why. First you will test for power to the injector plug with the key on. IF power is present than you know that everything on the resistor side is fine and that the fault is in the ground that goes to the ecu or in the ecu itself. To test the wire to the ecu you will need a multimeter, digital or analog will work. You will need to find the wire on the ecu side for the non working injector and disconnect the plug that the wire is in from the ecu. From there you will need to make a jumper wire that goes from the wire on the injector plug to the inside of the car. Now set the multimeter to read continuity and check for continuity between the jumper wire and the other end of the wire in the ecu plug. If continuity is found than i would also check the wire for continuity to ground. This would indicate a short to ground. If none is found than and you have continuity from the injector to ecu than the ecu is at fault.

jpmxrider489 said:
Have you tried replacing resistor pack behind the intake mani. I had the same problem.

The resistor pack is easy to check. You can use a multimeter. It is just a big resistor. Also the voltage coming out will be off or non existent if the pack is bad. Replacing parts to diagnose a simple problem is never a good idea. A 5 dollar multimeter is all you need in situations like this.

1992_Talon_tsi · Jan 26, 2012

bryanwheat said:
You can pull the cam angle sensor and turn the shaft with the ignition on to test the injector's. You can also diagnose the spark like this. When you turn the cam angle sensor the injectors will fire. You an unplug them and check them one by one. If they are all clicking than they all have good signal ground from the ecu. If they aren't all working than it is relatively easy to figure out why. First you will test for power to the injector plug with the key on. IF power is present than you know that everything on the resistor side is fine and that the fault is in the ground that goes to the ecu or in the ecu itself. To test the wire to the ecu you will need a multimeter, digital or analog will work. You will need to find the wire on the ecu side for the non working injector and disconnect the plug that the wire is in from the ecu. From there you will need to make a jumper wire that goes from the wire on the injector plug to the inside of the car. Now set the multimeter to read continuity and check for continuity between the jumper wire and the other end of the wire in the ecu plug. If continuity is found than i would also check the wire for continuity to ground. This would indicate a short to ground. If none is found than and you have continuity from the injector to ecu than the ecu is at fault.

The resistor pack is easy to check. You can use a multimeter. It is just a big resistor. Also the voltage coming out will be off or non existent if the pack is bad. Replacing parts to diagnose a simple problem is never a good idea. A 5 dollar multimeter is all you need in situations like this.

Before posting here i tested and went through all of the above, The problem started randomly then i replaced all of these parts. I turned on the car unplug injector#1 shut off, then went to #2 dint make a difference, unplug #3 and no difference, unplug #4 car shut off. I know my problem its either in ECU or injector cable that grounds on ECU heaving a short somewhere...

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Injector 2&3 not working help!!

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