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I got bored and made a subframe.

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You need provisions for different rack options. Id really like to run a mustang 2 manual rack (really like the prices) finding decent priced manual racks is hard when you cant devote a million hours to searching ebay and the classified for cheap ones (I know they pop up from time to time but i only find them for around 250)
 
You need provisions for different rack options. Id really like to run a mustang 2 manual rack (really like the prices) finding decent priced manual racks is hard when you cant devote a million hours to searching ebay and the classified for cheap ones (I know they pop up from time to time but i only find them for around 250)

You do realize this is a rear subframe, right?
 
You need provisions for different rack options. Id really like to run a mustang 2 manual rack (really like the prices) finding decent priced manual racks is hard when you cant devote a million hours to searching ebay and the classified for cheap ones (I know they pop up from time to time but i only find them for around 250)

2gs have a rear rack now? :p
 
Hahahaha. Alright so goal for the 1g and 2g front subframe will have provisions for either a pinto or mustang rack. But I would rather not discuss the details in that as its an area that we have yet to cover. The 2g has a tricky geometry up front that may make things a little difficult!
 
You must have missed this post.

No, you're right. The guy didn't quote anyone. Also would help if that was towards him at all. Seeing this thread is about a rear subframe, where he mentioned the front subframe with no updates on that. Thanks though :thumb:
 
No, you're right. The guy didn't quote anyone. Also would help if that was towards him at all. Seeing this thread is about a rear subframe, where he mentioned the front subframe with no updates on that. Thanks though :thumb:

We are all a little slow sometimes ROFL But for real man, get me that car so its ready to be worked on after I recover from surgery! Gotta get you in the 8's ;)
 
We are all a little slow sometimes ROFL But for real man, get me that car so its ready to be worked on after I recover from surgery! Gotta get you in the 8's ;)

Bro, I'm waiting on you! It's ready to go when your shop is ready for it.
 
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Alright so we got the lower control arms somewhat figured out as far as mounting points. There is more bracing and whatnot to come but here is what its looking like!
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Did you anneal it? There's a reason why you don't hear of many people running tubular subframes, they often break. All those welds have internal stresses now that you need to get rid of if you want it to last, otherwise, through the harmonics of driving, the welds will fatigue and crack. Especially now that you have no dampers to absorb any harmonics in the subframe, you'll reduce the fatigue life of the frame, since it has to take all those vibrations.

They work well if the necessary steps are taken in manufacturing, but most places that try to make these, don't have the equipment (oven) to properly do after treatment.

There's a reason why most manufacturers use folded mild steel. It can handle road harmonics, and that's worth sacrificing the added mass for. :thumb:

With that being mild steel, I see no reason to get all huffy about anealing it. The oem subframes in these cars are absolute junk, IMHO. They are made of very very thin material, and crack from fatigue often. Not to mention how much strength is missing from 20 years of corrosion.

I didn't see what the op was using for material, but as long as its 0.1" wall, I see no cause for concern.


machine design 2 classes for you all, because frankly it would be over your heads w/o the leading courses.

Lol, I teach Machine Design II
 
Screw all this computer testing. I am going to put 800 wheel through it and see how it does. If it holds up to that It will hold up to almost anything.
 
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Here is a little update showing stock control/ toe arms in place! We are making tubulars but this shows you CAN use stock if you so choose too!
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Well it has been a while since I have updated because I got banned for a while. Anyways we have no determined a final design for the subframe. We changed up tubing sizes a little bit and changed a few angles that we did not like. It did gain two and a half pounds. However it is still approx a 40 lb drop. Anyways next week I am throwing one together and shipping it to STM where they are going to do some pretty serious testing on it. Here are some pictures that show the design and changes we have made!

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Notice how in the picture below the cross bar that would go over the top of the diff is not triangulated.
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Notice how the two below photos show full triangulation. Literally every way you look at this it is triangulate in one way or another in EVERY piece. I am sure its VERY strong. But only time will tell!
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Is you toe arm inboard pickup really going to be attach as seen in the picture?

Kevin

No it is not. We changed the design a little bit because of the fact using a stock toe arm would be pointless as there is no way to adjust it. Granted the one that was pictured would work just fine because it would have been boxed in and gusseted in the final design.
 
very interested to see where this goes with the 1g platform, for the rwd application in particular. i'll be tackling the front k-member project over the next few months as time allows. subscribed, and keep up the nice work
 
While I agree with boost98 to a point I dont think that you can just go around saying things can fail based on harmonics. As a Mech E I full understand the point you are trying to making but absoultely no one looks at every design established and challenges it based on harmonics.
If you have seen these designs fail due to those conditions then it makes sense to challenge it and not one person can say it wont fail untill its been tested. Ansys will give you an idea but its never perfect.
Plus the harmonics from road conditions are much less constant then a wind frequency across a bridge.
 
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