Planned on it. This isn't my first rodeo just being stationed this far away from my shop in Missouri doesn't help

Just wanted to say thanks for all the great help and advice. Hope I get this thing running soon

Cars at modified import repair in Clarksville, TN. Hope I get my new baby on the road again.

so i know your cars at the shop now but i wanted to ask if you ever tried swapping injectors to see if they wernt working right? I have seen injectors that click and act like they are working but really weren't. instlled new and fixed the problem. unlikely its your problem though. Tell me if they figure it out. I'd like to know the answer.

Don't think it's my injectors. The injectors on those cylinders aren't receiving signal and neither is the coil for those cylinders. The coil has power but isn't arcing. Something is telling them not to fire or give fuel. Any insight would be greatly appreciated

Now I have tried everything. I need a good shop around TN

Shop right by my house the orange one I was telling you about. The guy their knows his stuff you can have him take look at it.

Doug at extreme performance does very good work. He's in Murfreesboro though. Worth the drive if you can get it there.

Who wants to come by and give it a look. I'll be here rest of the day but back to work tomorrow

That sounds so close to what happened with my 95, its nearly identical. I changed the coils, the crank sensor, and that retarded 95 CAS several times over and I never got that stupid CAS to work right. The major problem is that to do anything with that CAS, you have to redo the timing... Everytime. I did it 8 times trying to fix mine. I am real fast at doing a timing belt now, but I gave up trying to get that finicky 95 ignition to do anything right. I swapped in a 1g CAS and pot modded it and haven't had a single issue since PLUS I can adjust my ignition timing now too. I already had an SAFC2, so no problems with the pot mod... Though it did lean it out a LOT because of the altitude here. I had to add 22% even with my 550cc injectors to get my trims zero'd. It is MUCH nicer than screwing around with that POS CAS behind the intake cam sprocket though, by a lot.

Maybe I should ask a shop about doing this

If you aren't equiped or inclined to do that kind of work, you probably should...

If you have had any basic experience working on an engine, have the basic tools needed, and are willing to take a few hard knocks, do it yourself. Victory won through honest, hard work and diligent study is a thousand times sweeter than any problem solved for you by someone else. This is WHY we own these cars. If it is a daily driven and required car, you can't afford the down time if you are wrong, and don't have the tools needed... Take it in.

I'm a little lost. A couple posts ago you said the car was at a shop, yet you are still asking for someone to come and look at it.....
Have you bothered to check wiring from the ecu to the ICM? If the ecu lost an internal ground, you won't get spark on one of the coils.
With key on, check pin #2 and #7 at the ICM. These are the grounds that allow the coils to saturate. When the ecu recieves signal from the CAS it will break the ground and the coil will release.
If there is ground at both pins then a CAS issue would be the most likely component to test.
You should be able to use a test light connected to power and have someone crank the engine. You want to see the test light blink slowly while cranking.
If both pins test good, that would indicate that the ecu and cas are functional.
Not telling you that there is nothing else wrong, but testing circuits and wiring is cheaper than continuing to replace parts until the car runs correctly.....

I had it at a shop and he wouldn't work on my car anymore when he noticed my timing belt was worn. So before he went any further and charged me a ton more money I brought it home and replaced the belt myself. I will check that thank you for the imput

Situation. Car running. Wire 2 on ICM is constant and 7 blinks rapidly. Does this mean I need to look at the cam sensor some more. Seriously considering a 1g cam sensor swap

Personally, I have no regrets about swapping to a 1g. I am using one of the older green tops, but it was all that I could find quickly. If you do the swap, a black top sensor is thought to be best because it's a hall sensor like the 95 CAS. It is supposed to be slightly more accurate, though I have had no issues with my green top EXCEPT the random misfire p0300 issue that nearly everyone gets with the 1g CAS swap. I used the potentiometer (ie. Pot mod) on the barometric pressure sensor wire to keep the ECU from looking for misfire at cruise. It is less than optimal, as it leans out the A/F ratio because the computer thinks it's driving around on top of Mt. Everest and there's less air due to the potentiometer changing the baro reading. I compensated with an SAFC2 since I had one and had to add quite a bit to it even with 550cc injectors. The RIGHT way to fix it is with ECULink or similar, which also will prevent you from having to re-wire the ignition coils and injector firing order, which you will have to do to make it run correctly without ECU management. It's not terribly complicated, but it is a bit of a pain changing all the injector pins around in the ECU harness.

That said, I would say it's a world of difference better than the 95 stock ignition, simply because you don't have to redo the timing belt if anything is wrong with the CAS, which is a finicky POS from my experience. Being able to back the timing off a bit from the advance caused by the pot mod is good too, because its adjustable, unlike the 95 sensors. Personally, I would quit messing around with the 95 CAS and do the swap. It has been one of the better EMS changes I've done to my 95. It's just easier to maintain once everything is changed and running right with the 1g CAS.

That's my $0.02 + tax.

dsm4superman said:

Situation. Car running. Wire 2 on ICM is constant and 7 blinks rapidly. Does this mean I need to look at the cam sensor some more. Seriously considering a 1g cam sensor swap

Click to expand...

So you now have no spark from the 2&3 coil?

Check the power transistor to make sure it isn't bad.

With the engine off:
Connect a 1.5V battery, negative to pin 3 and positive to pin 2, if that creates continuity between pin 1 and pin 3 the output to the 2&3 coil is good.
Connect a 1.5V battery, negative to pin 3 and positive to pin 7, if there is continuity created between pin 3 and 8 the output to the 1&4 coil is good.

If the PT checks out, you likely do have a bad signal from the CAS or CPS, but there still may be an issue with the signal going from the ECU to the PT, a bad coil or a bad plug wire.

No I still have spark on the 2+3 cylinders

If pin 2 is showing constant ground without blinking, I would say that the ecu and wiring to the ICM is ok. I believe the CAS output would be suspect now. The CKP is more of a TDC sensor, as it outputs once per revolution and doesn't have any waveform variation. This lets the ecu know where TDC is and the cam sensor provides cylinder identification.
Being that the CAS signal is supplied to the ecu on one wire, and with out going all 'lab scope would show the problem' on you. It is time to swap out the CAS and inspect the intake sprocket while you are there...
Good luck !

Sounding like its an ecu problem. Like the driver circuit for them has a bad ground or shorted out. THats really only whats left. If you were close enough I'd let you borrow my extra ecu to test. If you want i might could find the pin out for the computer.
Edit: Didn't see those posts. was on page one

Replaced cas and still no change. So far if your just gettin involved. No fire on #1-4 cylinders. Replaced coil,cas, used icm, checked all wires. Pulled ecu and repaired it. Checked timing and while I had it up replaced the timing belt. I'm getting pretty frustrated as hell with this darn car

This might be crazy but check on your firewall if you see a plug with 2wires going into it.

What does the plug look like

Has a known good power transistor/igniter/ignition control module, etc etc been swapped? I've had 2 bad ones in a row with the same set of outputs failed that sent me chasing my tail before...

Worst comes to worst you can swap the trigger wires(black w/blue stripe for coil 1&4 and brown w/red stripe for coil 2&3) in the harness plug going to the power transistor and see if the problem either follows the swapped wires or if the same coil still fires. That should narrow it down to either the ECU output or the PT input and/or broken wire somewhere in between.

The coil can be taken out if the equation if you swap the ring terminals around on each coil. I have yet to see an ignition coil fail for what it's worth.

Also, since you said it's idling low(which it will firing on 2 cylinders anyway) it sounds like the power transistor is only sending a single rpm signal to the tachometer. This will cause the tach to read half of the actual engine rpm since it usually sees 2 output signals coming from the PT, one for each coil.

I have a really big hunch that it's the power transistor...

Mr Peepers said:

I have a really big hunch that it's the power transistor...

Click to expand...

I agree Matt, it does have all the symptoms. I'm kinda leaning slightly towards a ECU>PT wiring harness issue/short though.

OP, have you checked the PT/ICM/whatchamacallit like I described in post #42 yet? Or are you just assuming that it's good because you swapped it with another one and the symptoms didn't change?

If we find that both PTs have the same diagnostic symptoms, you will need to swap wires around like Matt suggested to verify that both PTs are in fact good before you tear into anything else.

Mr peepers. I'm going to try this since I have only swapped the one icm in. I'm going swap the wires before I get another icm to put in.

Delta 448. I have not yet since the weather has been cold and have been busy with training but I deffinately have some more direction. Also I swapped the coils around with no change so it isn't the problem