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evo 3 16g or hta68?

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josh1095

Banned Member
453
5
Aug 27, 2009
st. jacob, Illinois
which one would suit my needs? eventually looking for close to 400whp. fully built bottom end, 1000cc, link, fmic, thinking of just going 2.5" turbo back catless(no need for 3" unless i want to go over 400 hp) i will have all the other goodies to go along w it. not a mindless bolt on, dont worry.
im planning on crower 264 or 272 cams... down the road. will the 68 bolt up w no mods? using stock o2 housing(ported of course) and internally gated?
prices are going up lately and im gonna grab one or the other very soon.
i want something streetable, never for the strip, just good roll ons.
im leaning toward the 68 right now but i found one place thats still selling the e3 16g for 600. same place is selling the 68 for 945. tough call

btw, if i dont abuse this thing, are they reliable? i dont run the hell out of my cars or trucks. FP supposedly has a good rep. but are MHIs built better?
 
Call the place advertising their prices that low. Chances are you just haven't gotten around to updating the price
 
Fp turbos are good so is the evo, got rid of mine, but there a a lot of threads on the mhi turbo, its a great turbo for the price. Prices now are doubled, now get one rebuilt from some freelancers here. Research on mods for your upgrades, wideband, fuel, tuning etc.
 
Just get the evo 3 16g unless you ganna run race gas or E85 for the hta68.It's way cheaper in price with the evo 3 compared to the hta unless you wanna make like 400whp with the hta on race gas or E85 otherwise there practicly the same thing.We call the hta68 a 16g on crack.Only get 272 cams don't waste getting the 264, especially if you want 400hp out of it, but that would kind of be maxing those turbo's to try and get 400hp out of them.FP is like the twin brother of mhi turbos imo.Also just go 3 inch exhaust.
 
Get what suits you, more than 400 you want look at something other than the evo, with mods mhi 18g, 20g, are other good ones. Fp prices have increased since the new year, so consider price with what your shooting for.
 
clipto: is it truly necessary for a full 3" exhaust? i would have to calculate the cfm with the extra .5 inch but could it really matter that much? i mean, my goals are only around 400 hp.
i will ge the 272s then too.
wideband will be innovative
i saw precision turbos for around a grand. they say they come with mitsu housings. wide variety of those. are they an option i should look in to? i dont want to get the e3 16 and only be able to make 320whp. ill prob want more later down the road.

cimotorsprts is the site btw. no knockoff bs there
 
clipto: is it truly necessary for a full 3" exhaust? i would have to calculate the cfm with the extra .5 inch but could it really matter that much? i mean, my goals are only around 400 hp.
i will ge the 272s then too.
wideband will be innovative
i saw precision turbos for around a grand. they say they come with mitsu housings. wide variety of those. are they an option i should look in to? i dont want to get the e3 16 and only be able to make 320whp. ill prob want more later down the road.

cimotorsprts is the site btw. no knockoff bs there

Yes, a 3" exhaust is truly necessary. Especially if your talking about wanting to make more than 300whp.

People make 350-375whp with a 16g all day. Its been known to make 400ish if your running E85/Meth Injection/High Octane fuel.

And as others have mentioned. I highly doubt those prices are actual prices. They've gone up EVERYWHERE.

Maybe look into an FP Green/Red. I don't have much experience with bolt on turbos that aren't MHI. But I know Green/Red = Proven.
 
You'll still probably have to spend another $200 at least if you have not yet have the 16G install kit...
 
ya when i get the full v3 version i hear theres multi modes for e85 applications. guess its solved then. will i need a evo3 o2 housing or can i port and polish my existing
 
ya when i get the full v3 version i hear theres multi modes for e85 applications. guess its solved then. will i need a evo3 o2 housing or can i port and polish my existing

"Need" ? No. Would you benefit from it ? Yes. If you have the money to do it all at once, its much easier to take care of it when the turbo is off the car.
 
clipto: is it truly necessary for a full 3" exhaust? i would have to calculate the cfm with the extra .5 inch but could it really matter that much? i mean, my goals are only around 400 hp.
i will ge the 272s then too.
wideband will be innovative
i saw precision turbos for around a grand. they say they come with mitsu housings. wide variety of those. are they an option i should look in to? i dont want to get the e3 16 and only be able to make 320whp. ill prob want more later down the road.

cimotorsprts is the site btw. no knockoff bs there

Just simpler to get the 3 inch exhaust like you said yourself its only .5 I doubt it cost you any more to get it you won't regret it.But if you really want 400hp I would look at something bigger then any of the 16g's, you would be mostly at max with the 16g at around the 350hp range.You might wanna look at a fp30 or something or cheap check out those holset turbo setups everyone is doing.Just remeber imo everything street turbo wise is ganna be alot laggier then the 16g and the 16g is the range of not worrying about if your motor will blow or not running 400hp.Its alot cheaper to maintance and build a 16g then the jump to 400hp.
 
only prob w 3" exhaust is where and who to get to do it? i can find the sections on ebay but most are 2.5". i shouldnt pay more than 400 for an exhaust at a shop. ive got atleast 4k to spend right now so money shouldnt be an issue. i live near stl, if i tow the car to a good exhaust shop and tell them its off road only, they should do a catless exhaust? sorry for the millions of questions but i think after all this time and money in the engine i very well may havea running car sat or sunday at the latest. (big thanks to rlacasse) after a break in, my wallet is wide open LOL
ive never owned a turbo, only really fast motorcycles. im sure 300 hp is gonna feel insane ina tiny car like an eclipse but i wanna go all the way right from the get go. no need taking shit apart twice
 
only prob w 3" exhaust is where and who to get to do it? i can find the sections on ebay but most are 2.5". i shouldnt pay more than 400 for an exhaust at a shop. ive got atleast 4k to spend right now so money shouldnt be an issue. i live near stl, if i tow the car to a good exhaust shop and tell them its off road only, they should do a catless exhaust? sorry for the millions of questions but i think after all this time and money in the engine i very well may havea running car sat or sunday at the latest. (big thanks to rlacasse) after a break in, my wallet is wide open LOL
ive never owned a turbo, only really fast motorcycles. im sure 300 hp is gonna feel insane ina tiny car like an eclipse but i wanna go all the way right from the get go. no need taking shit apart twice

You should be able to get a $400 exhaust online or venders or on classifiends most of wich all is $400 anyways.Get your maintanace done like timing and get something to tune with like ecmlink get 1000cc injectors 255 fuel pump afpr 3 inch exhaust and evo 3 16g or any thing bigger depending on your pocket book funds.
 
gotcha clipto: all maintenance is done. essentially a brand new engine with forged internals. 0 miles. CI has e3 16s for 600. prob grab it b4 price shoots up again. i reviewed some of my old posts and found a couple places thatll do 3" dsm exhausts. just wish i could buy a cheapo ebay unit instead. ah well. im a keyboard tuner right now, i will know so much more by tomorrow evening.
only thing i have on my side is i know how engines work. i dont know fluid dynamics or else i would debate you on whether a 2.5" exhaust would support 400. i think it will. thats alot of room, but ill have to search for comparisons.
thanks everyone for your answers, patience, and not being dicks. ive been reading here for quite awhile and know the exact path im taking aside from turbo selection.
 
gotcha clipto: all maintenance is done. essentially a brand new engine with forged internals. 0 miles. CI has e3 16s for 600. prob grab it b4 price shoots up again. i reviewed some of my old posts and found a couple places thatll do 3" dsm exhausts. just wish i could buy a cheapo ebay unit instead. ah well. im a keyboard tuner right now, i will know so much more by tomorrow evening.
only thing i have on my side is i know how engines work. i dont know fluid dynamics or else i would debate you on whether a 2.5" exhaust would support 400. i think it will. thats alot of room, but ill have to search for comparisons.
thanks everyone for your answers, patience, and not being dicks. ive been reading here for quite awhile and know the exact path im taking aside from turbo selection.

Well one thing you will win on debating is I don't argue especially on the .5 inches on the exhaust just a simplicity fact of just get a it's not that big of a deal for 3 inch exhaust it's only .5 more for air to be let out less chance of choke.But yes if you wanna do the 2.5 that's fine by me.
 
clipto, i plan on dynoing my car stock w t25, t25 w link and injectors and tune, and so on. i would love to have real numbers to compare for everyone. pipe dreams right now... just added up my parts cost: 3850 for everything i want. and thats the e3 16g instead of the ported hta. damn this is gonna be an expensive hobby. i will post tons of pics in the appropriate forum from tomorrows work. i bet on a stock 2" w cat, t25 with tons of play, wideband, link and my injectors i can turn out 235 whp. i may fall on my face an eat my words, but these dynos around here are only 75 an hour. im gonna run it thru several configs to either give credibility to the 3" exhaust or dispel. either way i cant wait!!!!! ####ing stoked guys.
oh ya, looked thru the dyno sheets, all 15 pages, the hta68 makes more power but not alot and i did see e3s over 400 on e85. ill let everyone know when the time3 comes
 
clipto, i plan on dynoing my car stock w t25, t25 w link and injectors and tune, and so on. i would love to have real numbers to compare for everyone. pipe dreams right now... just added up my parts cost: 3850 for everything i want. and thats the e3 16g instead of the ported hta. damn this is gonna be an expensive hobby. i will post tons of pics in the appropriate forum from tomorrows work. i bet on a stock 2" w cat, t25 with tons of play, wideband, link and my injectors i can turn out 235 whp. i may fall on my face an eat my words, but these dynos around here are only 75 an hour. im gonna run it thru several configs to either give credibility to the 3" exhaust or dispel. either way i cant wait!!!!! ####ing stoked guys.
oh ya, looked thru the dyno sheets, all 15 pages, the hta68 makes more power but not alot and i did see e3s over 400 on e85. ill let everyone know when the time3 comes

I made 240whp on 14psi on a 14b fwd auto trans.I ran a 14 second with a T25 and a front mount everything else stock.So that should give you some idea.Good luck you will love it just with the 16g the car shines enough for a daily driver imo.:thumb:
 
DAMN!!! on an auto nonetheless!! shit dude thats awesome.
if i can get a 3" fabbed up reasonably ill def do it. clipto, do you have a recommendation for engine break in? its stock comp. just all new. i was thinking running around 12 psi, alternating rpms and load and doing 500 mile oil changes for 3k miles. i was told this was complete overkill and my rings would seat in 100 miles. ive got time, no hurry just want a reliable vehicle.
btw, to all people who talk shit about auto trannys, its BS. if i had the perfect car and unlimited funds id def have a fully built auto. sure it loses 20 hp but who cares, even up, an auto smokes a MT even with the same HP. unless the other guy can shift clutchless and have practiced ALOT. i love auto dsms, but i had to go with the MT. less shit to break basically.
 
DAMN!!! on an auto nonetheless!! shit dude thats awesome.
if i can get a 3" fabbed up reasonably ill def do it. clipto, do you have a recommendation for engine break in? its stock comp. just all new. i was thinking running around 12 psi, alternating rpms and load and doing 500 mile oil changes for 3k miles. i was told this was complete overkill and my rings would seat in 100 miles. ive got time, no hurry just want a reliable vehicle.
btw, to all people who talk shit about auto trannys, its BS. if i had the perfect car and unlimited funds id def have a fully built auto. sure it loses 20 hp but who cares, even up, an auto smokes a MT even with the same HP. unless the other guy can shift clutchless and have practiced ALOT. i love auto dsms, but i had to go with the MT. less shit to break basically.

I personally feel auto trans are alot stronger doing the math when I got dynoed on my 14b it would only be a 10 hp increase if I was a 5 speed.Just try stay out of boost while your breaking it in and keep in different rpm ranges.Get that 3 inch exhaust done that should get you on your way.
 
thanks bro, will do on the 3", im here to learn just like all the other noobs. i believe in chrysler dsms, they CAN be reliable. i hate people ripping on them all the time. ive owned 3 and they ar ethe toughest cars ever, provided u do the maintenance. ill come back with photos, dynos and maybe post up a few wheelies on my 10r!! LOL i love this forum. constant knowledge
 
I personally feel auto trans are alot stronger doing the math when I got dynoed on my 14b it would only be a 10 hp increase if I was a 5 speed.Just try stay out of boost while your breaking it in and keep in different rpm ranges.Get that 3 inch exhaust done that should get you on your way.

If seen more then my fair share of engine break in threads on this forum. Forced induction motors must see boost to be broken in correctly. To the OP please use the search botton it does wonders.
 
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