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MAF-T Wiring problem

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SpinningAll4

Probationary Member
15
0
Aug 18, 2011
Seaside, New_Jersey
Hey whats up everyone ? Had a quick question, tried to search here and the internet but found little information. I got a MAF-T with my GM MAF, the translator was a good deal, only because the plug on it (That plugs into the stock 1g wiring harness) Is cut. I have bare wires and just wondering the wiring diagram for a 1g so I can hardwire it.

It's the same issue found here, but just for a 1g.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/258097-maf-t-wiring.html

The seller told me to look here for some help, as that's what he did when he had to wire it. He lost the bookmarks for the help he used, just seeing if anyone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks for any help in advanced, I got my chip coming tomorrow afternoon and would like to wire this in to get my car going !

-Joe
 
So what are you exactly doing i wired mine but i had the plug for a 1g i cut the wires and spliced them into the factory, i sold it now i have link so its been gone.
 
1g wiring for the maf

1gy 2gl 3r 4gr
5none 6gb 7gy 8go

gy= green with yellow stripe
gl= green with blue stripe
r= red
gr= green with red
gb= green with black
g0= green with orange

1. Idle Position sensor
2. Airflow Sensor
3. MPI Control Relay
4. 5v power supply for sensors
5. none
6. Ground for sensors
7. Barometric Pressure sensor
8. Intake air temp sensor

Hope that helps. It is from the Max Performance 4g63 engines book.
I needed it for my 2g setup.
 
I'm not a wiring expert by any means that's why I'm asking for help. I have 5 wires coming off of the MAF-T with no plug on them just bare wires. I basically have to cut the factory plug to the MAF off and solder the wires together, just trying to match them up. It seems there are 7 wires in the factory harness (according to nitroazz's post). That's why I don't know which wires to connect. Thanks guys starting to go atleast in the right direction now.
 
Maft wiring

white - rpm signal ----- Cas sensor

yellow- maf freq signal
pink- +12 volts ----------- gm maf
black - ground

grey - barometric pressure signal
pink - 12 volts
black - ground -------------- stock maf
brown - air temp signal
green - translator freq signal

purple - not used

I am looking for my wiring sheet that I made, but someone will probably post it up before I get back from the garage.
 
Ok, thanks for the help so far. Just going to match them up and see which wires I have left over for now. Ughhh
 
A lot of fellows that run the translator mount it inside the car. that avoids having to get under the hood to make adjustments. It's a good idea. You can find another plug.
 
Ok, no idea what version because the sticker is peeled off. But here is where I got to so far. Colors are the MAF-T..
Gray (Barometric pressure signal) to #7 green/yellow wire
Pink (12 volts) to #3 red wire
Black (ground) to #6 Green/black wire
Brown (Air temp sensor) to #8 Green/orange wire

I have the green wire from the translator still not connected to anything, and wires 1,2, and 4 on the stock 1g harness disconnected. When I say wire numbers I am referring to the numbers nitroazz posted. I wish somebody just had a diagram what wires to hook up to each other. I can solder them and start my damn car allready.

Sorry if there's an attitude being taken here, I'm getting to the point where I'm going to just sell the car because I let my brother use my daily because his car blew up, and I'm tired of riding my motorcycle to work with temperatures here less than 40 degrees in the morning.

Thanks so far for any help, not too worried about fancy in cabin/extending wires now I just need the car to run right now.
 
I didn't find my paper last night.

Try This though.

EDIT:
Read through it for the 2g and it looks like the green wire from the maft is attached to the Airflow sensor wire. That is #2, Green and light blue.

:) Have fun
 
yup he is correct with that ^^^

Ok, no idea what version because the sticker is peeled off. But here is where I got to so far. Colors are the MAF-T..
Gray (Barometric pressure signal) to #7 green/yellow wire
Pink (12 volts) to #3 red wire
Black (ground) to #6 Green/black wire
Brown (Air temp sensor) to #8 Green/orange wire

I have the green wire from the translator still not connected to anything, and wires 1,2, and 4 on the stock 1g harness disconnected. When I say wire numbers I am referring to the numbers nitroazz posted. I wish somebody just had a diagram what wires to hook up to each other. I can solder them and start my damn car allready.

Sorry if there's an attitude being taken here, I'm getting to the point where I'm going to just sell the car because I let my brother use my daily because his car blew up, and I'm tired of riding my motorcycle to work with temperatures here less than 40 degrees in the morning.

Thanks so far for any help, not too worried about fancy in cabin/extending wires now I just need the car to run right now.

once you take that cap off to get to the knobs there should be something in there that says what version you have i actually think its etched into the mother board
 
Hey im sorry if this has already been covered but im having a problem with my 1g maf-t. I have had my tune set pretty good as of late even as the temp changes all the time here in upstate ny but everytime I turn my car off I seem to loose my settings. I find that if I turn my aux dial back one click my car will run but still hesitates under boost. Ive checked all my wiring, replaced my 3in maf, but still loose power? Im just wondering if theres anyway to fix this issue without removing my maf-t harness and again re-wiring the entire harness. The maf-t I purchased from a friend who was using it in his stealth rt tt. Any help would be great! And again im sorry if this has already been covered. (ive also went over the fullthrottletech guides but havent found anyone with with a similar issue) Thanks!
 
If its been in an engine bay for a long time I've noticed that water can get into the translator really easy and start to corrode the circuits. Mine was acting up and I took it out and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and an acid brush. Worked great and I then relocated it to the interior.
 
Well I made an extension for my harness and mounted it on a 16gauge steel plate covering the space where the radio woild be so its inside the cabin already. My friend thinks it might b a short in my ecu? Im currently working over everyones tips and trying to troubleshoot this but im running out of ideas :/
 
Well I made an extension for my harness and mounted it on a 16gauge steel plate covering the space where the radio woild be so its inside the cabin already. My friend thinks it might b a short in my ecu? Im currently working over everyones tips and trying to troubleshoot this but im running out of ideas :/

First check the wires where they run thru the firewall for any shorts. Then I would check the dip switches. There are 4 on a red box next to the dials. Make sure they didn't move or get jarred out of place. Sounds like u are having the same problem I did when I have mine set for the wrong ecu as it translated to a 1g but my ecu is chipped as a 2g.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
 
Alright. Ill go give her a once over at the firewall. Im almost positive I,wrapped em up good with electrical tape. I had just re-wired it last monday when the issue had gotten so bad I had become stuck an hour away from home waiting fpr it to cool down to attempt to start it again :X as for the dip switches, that was one of the first things I checked today along with the dials because ive had my base halfway between numbers before and experienced something similar with my first maf-t. Thanks for the replies. Ill post what I find shortly.
 
Im confused, why are you waiting for your Maf-t to cool down to restart it? It should not be getting hot like that. Hell I have mine bolted above my transmission right now on what looks like a stay bracket from the OEM air filter housing, and even after hard driving I can reach down and its not even warm to the touch. If yours is getting HOT, then I would guess you have a short somewhere, and your going to end up doing damage to your MAFT and possibly your ECU if something grounds out.
 
No. no direct heat to the maf-t. it only acts up when,my car is warm. If,the engines cold started it will work fine after the car reaches operating temperature. If turned off and back on my maf-t wont work. No led's, no power untill I move my aux dial back one click is it semi-driveable. Really weird problem?

No maf-t heating up. It just stops working after the engine warms up. Maf-t's good for sure. Almost brand new when I got it. I dont know any other things to look for at this point? Maybe my ecu's going?
 
Verify your wiring. Make sure you have everything hooked up to the right places. I know it may seem repetitive but check all your connections, make sure there is nothing grounding out and everything is insulated so it will not ground out. If its an engine temp issue, it very well could be the engine temp sensor for the ECU. There are 2 temp sending units on the Tstat housing. 1 is for your gauges and 1 is for the ECU. If the one for the ECU is bad, it will not tell your ECU the engine temp so the ECU can adjust the fuel into the engine accordingly. You could possibly start there too.

However if you have to move your aux dial it seems like something is not wired correctly as its supposed to be just that, an aux dial. Seems that something is off about it.
 
Hey repitition comes with the car. Always re-doing things previous owners messed up. but yeah ill go through the scematic again and make sure everythings 100% correct. Another thing I was curious about is the temp sensor by the filler neck. The 2 prong white plug melted on a bad engine detonation awhile back with the previous owner and i've been trying to find information reguarding which color wire goes on the left and right side of the plug. If its infact an incorrect signal to the ecu cluster could it be caused by those wires being connected backwards? I hope my description is understandable.?? Thanks!
 
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