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does anyone on here do non eprom to eprom conversions

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turbojo

10+ Year Contributor
164
0
Oct 10, 2011
hazel green, Alabama
does anyone on here do non eprom to eprom conversions
 
Why not spend the money and get ecmlink?

I know a guy that burns eproms but, he only does mild ecu repairs like caps..I'm not sure If he would be able to do a conversion or not..

There is an eprom in the classifieds section that has already been socketed..
 
Why not spend the money and get ecmlink?

I know a guy that burns eproms but, he only does mild ecu repairs like caps..I'm not sure If he would be able to do a conversion or not..

There is an eprom in the classifieds section that has already been socketed..

1 i dont want dsmlink i plan to go aem ems 2 i just want a cheap eprom chip set up for now 3 i want to eprom my ecu so i know what i have
 
So you want to spend 100+ on getting the ecu converted and socketed, then buy an eprom chip?

Then spend 1200$ on aem ems, when dsmlink is about 500$ new..Is that what your trying to say?

It's your money, but I had to ask if that's what you were planning on doing?
 
So you want to spend 100+ on getting the ecu converted and socketed, then buy an eprom chip?

Then spend 1200$ on aem ems, when dsmlink is about 500$ new..Is that what your trying to say?

It's your money, but I had to ask if that's what you were planning on doing?

yes thats my plan i just want the eprom stuff to get it going so so i can save up for aem i just dont see putting 500 bucks in a 20 year old ecu:cool:
 
Well again its your money, and your car, i guess i dont get it when you look at the big picture. Then to tune aem unless you know how.
 
yes thats my plan i just want the eprom stuff to get it going so so i can save up for aem i just dont see putting 500 bucks in a 20 year old ecu:cool:

But if you get an ecu done at ecmlink..They will go over it so it works for another 20 years..

Whatever man it's your money..But ecmlink is the only one I know of that does conversions and fixes ecu's now..

But again there is a newely capped, rebuilt, and socketed eprom in the classifieds section...If you have any problems with it..The guy that did the work will most likely warrenty it..
 
who sell the parts to convert it i can do it my self if i can get the parts i build a ms3 ecu for my old 2.3 turbo mustang
 
who sell the parts to convert it
Nobody. That 1G non-EPROM conversion board is a custom design that took us about a year's worth of development to pull off. Nobody else really puts that kind of R&D into these ECUs anymore. So I doubt anyone else is going to have anything similar.

I'm with some of the guys above, though... It may be better to just find an EPROM ECU for sale somewhere. Maybe even sell your non-EPROM ECU to recoup some of the costs. Then you're not dealing with the non-EPROM conversion at all.

How much of a custom chip are you looking to have done? Maybe we can start offering something there. Surprisingly, I'm starting to get more and more requests for hard coded chips. It may be time to add that option to our site. We could even offer a credit back later if the customer decides to go with ECMLink down the road.

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.
 
EDIT: from your mods list an AFC would be plenty for you rightnow. ECMlink is your best choice but right now you've got a lot of moneyto spend to finsh becoming "fast", so something like reflahing a stock eprom will be your best bet if you really know what you're doing,if not, go ECMlink, and if you don't know about the first option or even if you could convert your ECMlink to speed density without some one walking you through it...well then DO NOT get any stand alone.. you'll do like manyother very smart car guys i've met that thought they could tackle it, itwill sit in the box untill you pay some one to do it or sell it.... engine management has to be something you have a love for if you really want to just jump into stand alones, or you better be really fast with a good budget and ready to pay a tuner/dealer to install and tune it for you and either teach you basics or that will follow with you at some track events or provide onoing support and tweaks and not at full shop rate labor.. (we never just teach our hard learned knowledge)

Either get AEM or GEt ECMlink with eprom conversion, wy do something twice, you won't get it don'e cheap unless you just sell the non-eprom and buy eprom used on here...we are here everyday we see, sell, buy, eat, sleep and know this and is why we say it..there's no consiracy to hold DIY eprom conversion parts back, and cheap = bad parts and could = blown engine which then = no money for aem cause you're rebuilding

you can get a lot better and cheaper ECU's used than an AEM, i call them nightmares in a box, or we use to say when they first came out "you can plug and play all day but i bet you're still not driving it this week" LOL but we were selling haltech units of olden days which were easier, cheaper, easier to undertand and did just as much, just not in pretty widows format back then (now we have win software)

Anyway... there's link (not ecmlink) there's autronic, motec many many other better options with more support than AEM units which are rebadged and reworked GEMS systems from europe (i've been in the EMS game over 14 years now, i seen them all and none is really that much greater than the other, most of it you're paying extra for is blinky lights and flashy shit that is named something complicated to make it seem extra intense/cool when it just akes it harder to tune

ECMlink i personally commend their efforts i'm a person that HATES piggy backing of anysort, but i'd seriousely endorese their units especially the new V3 with SD :) (damn haltech will take my dealer status for saying that LOL )

Next i'd go to a used haltech for around 600 or so that can do as much as an AEM in most cases but uses older software (remember i said used unit)

then about any brand but an AEM plug n play, and if you MUST go AEM, get the universal and wire it up yourself... dealing with ripping out un-needed stuff after a plug n play install is about as fun as tracing your entire under dash harness looking for a wire with a "4" printed somewhere on it LOL

Anyway.. just listen to what everyones saying. we're an educated bunch of DSMgeeks, fanatics, maniacs and geniuses (dependign onwhich of us you get)

but we know what's good and what's not

don't spend money twice, just save from NOW for that AEM you'll go grey by 25 over or get DSM/ECMlink and be on the road FAST with as many options as most need with some of the best logging i've witnessed personally

Or get an eprom and go with some re-flashing software setup like jackal or something , learn some code andhow to flash eproms and be uber tech savy and able to tune and configure a cheap almost free stock eprom ECU into a computer than can handle a 700hp + engine like anything mentioned above

its' all about thinking and spending smart, notrushing to spend uyour money to find out you can't operate the 1500 dollar cool AEM that is what "racers use" and the ONLY stand alone that can't handle high and low ohm injectors and makes you use a resistor pack... that makes me laugh my ass off as well as it does most anyone else well versed in stand alone engine management .. sure it's great to sell a customer stick it in their car, tune and collect my money, but if YOU want to learn it, and configure it and change it with your car as it progresses from street to track only, get ready to lern to hate yourself

i'l shut up and stop my GEMS *cough* i mean AEM bashing now :D

Buy ECMlink unless you are comfortable and KNOW about sensors, their output waves, rising and falling triggers and how to wire them (or spend some years learnign it and then get a real stand alone if you relaly want to do this yourself)
 
Ecmlink isn't a piggyback, it is just a conversion to the memory of the ecu so that it can be flashed. Piggybacks modify the signal going into the ecu.
 
Ecmlink isn't a piggyback, it is just a conversion to the memory of the ecu so that it can be flashed. Piggybacks modify the signal going into the ecu.

iIn a sesne you're correct, and i would some what agree, BUT..... techically "piggyback" to most of the tuning guys i know is the fact that attaches to and works with the OEM ECU and would not be able to function without the OEM ecu already funcioning correctly, it attaches to the ECU and modifies it;s code/memory via flashing as you stated, so it's not crap sensor trickery or anything but IMO by techical aspects i still say ECMlink is a piggyback unit, just as hondata, Chrome and many other units are..thing is ECMlink is pretty kick ass and the only DSM compatible piggyback i'd EVER condone using for power levels above what a small timer could do with an AFC

don'tget me wrong i actually love ECMlink, so i won't argue anything bad towards it but i still consider it a piggy back being that it needs the OEM ECU and OBD-II port to work... now if you could pop out the mitsu ECU, put it in the tool box, and hook in via USB or RS-232 port and go drive your car, then i'd say it was no longer a piggyback unit. Untill then it's just stuck in a ''category" and although a category often spoiled by inconsistantly performing cheap electronics, ECMlink is well worth it's cost for some one who has the stock wiring and all in place or is willing to or desired to work wth most of the stock components (again this is nothing bad) but it's a DSM specific piggybacking unit i would have to vote. But i love the system and it's great
(even taking an ECMlink equiped ECU and bulding your own harness to run a bare bones race car that makes 800+ HP shows how badd ass it is, but its still taking over another unit attaching it's self to that unit, going for (wait for it) a "piggyback ride" LOL sorry ..hope you can tell i'm being goofy and not a di(k)


But, something i LOVE about my system or most any true stand alone , but right now lets say the one in my car... i like that my system uses GM sesnors that were used for almost a decade or more on an entire maufacturers product line and due to the amount of cars/trucks sold under thier many differnt badges from chevy to buck, i can get most any sensor i need even in the most remote town parts stores for around 20 bucks (and if i can't get what i need or want i can make do with something else that may be available but may imit my overall ability to say see boost if i can't get a 3 bar MAP, but there's a 2 bar available... hell even a one bar would stil get me home or i could bypass it and run in TPS vs. RPM load sensing - versatility is what i love), and i can fire any coil, inition box and read about any cam/crank sensor combo and run anything from a lawn mower to a 16cylinder ferrari or whatever comes with a 16 cylinder engine on the same ONE simple box with no extras to buy, just gimme a soldering iron and some shrink wrap and my laptop, and i'll have it running on the same ECU running my car right now..that my friend is "stand alone engine management"
 
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