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AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

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Did everyone else enjoy the moment you changed your car to "9* Eclipse GST (AWD swap)" in your user profile. I felt victorious music playing.

I know i did, my car's future changed that day from taking a swin in the river or being sold hre locally, back to being something i wanted to keep. No matter how you cut it, a 430+hp FWD on the streets sucks when you need to get out in traffic fast and your first and 2nd gears are completely useless even with a good LSD behind them. they are more fun to drive though for those who enjoy the white knuckle experience in 3rd gear :) To me the one downfall of AWD is even a LOT of HP becomes a fairly easy to drive and some what boring affair untill you learn to play in 1st and 2nd and start using the AWD as a cornering aid and playing with a little wet weather drifting in old parking lots (plenty od these in the cities industrial areas for me anyway where everyone stunts bikes and such and the police often watch without bothering us as long as we aren't damaging proprty or drinking - as well as assuming the owner didn't call them then we get the boot)

Vss? Also when I put it into 4th and 5th gear it sounds like the right cv axle is making a chatting noise like its stalling out,would that be do to the car being on stands and not having the speed/momentum while in higher gears? Also I ment to say its the rpm that is acting funkey and giving me false readings

is it the actual RPM of the engine or is the the RPM reading on the tach that is wrong or acting funny?
 
Are you using a MSD box at all (didn't read your profile) but everyone i know using the MSD and tach adapter has some issues with their tach, the best cure is to remove the adapter from the MSD box and splice it into the crank angle sensor or that leg of the 1g cam/crank sensor output , everyone i've done this to has cured all tach issues.. otherwise it's the white wire on the ignitor module the most tap into and that isn't reliable either

if no MSD box or anything like tha ti would check for a bad connection where the dash plugs in or check for bad wires/connections from the ECU and power transistor (ignitor module whatever you want to call it, mitsu calls it power transistor)
 
No msd,I'm sure it's something simple just have to look into it more,also has anyone had the same experience I'm having with the driverside axel or trannie makeing a soundalike your stalling out in higher gears while one jack stands?i explained what its doing in a previous post,thanks guys for the help

I'm using the same bolt that I used before I did the swap when it was working

No one??
 
Vss? Also when I put it into 4th and 5th gear it sounds like the right cv axle is making a chatting noise like its stalling out,would that be do to the car being on stands and not having the speed/momentum while in higher gears? Also I ment to say its the rpm that is acting funkey and giving me false readings

No msd,I'm sure it's something simple just have to look into it more,also has anyone had the same experience I'm having with the driverside axel or trannie makeing a soundalike your stalling out in higher gears while one jack stands?i explained what its doing in a previous post,thanks guys for the help

I'm using the same bolt that I used before I did the swap when it was working

No one??
Which is it, driver side or passenger side because each post its a different side of your car?

Did you fill it with trans fluid?

:dsm:
 
I didn't notice I said drivers side sorry, it is the right side (passenger side)that is making the noise. yes I used redline all the way around .Everything is topped off with nothing leaking.all the suspension is on and torqued,the only thing that is not on are the rotors and brakes .nothing seems to be binding ,or grinding .the trans shifts good and smooth,I'm thinking once I get to drive it ,it won't make the noise I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced what I am.
 
Just drive it... If nothing is binding. My car makes more noise than I can possibly keep track of, drives fine, until I turn sharp. But thats a different story.

For the tach. Check the ECU wires. I had an issue where the tach started bouncing, all over. Jiggled the ECU and it stopped doing it.
 
No what about Rust? I am about to do the swap. Just waiting for e cables and tranny. One thing bugging me though. Has anyone checked for rust after closing up the floor? I mean there is bare metal after all the cutting and welding. Yes sure you paint what you can before you close up the floor, but what happens after closing up the floor and leaving it for the weather to get to?
 
Like inside the frame. Where the subframe bolts go

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

Did you see all the holes already drilled in the frame? That area has been open to water/dirt/salt since it drove off the lot.

But if your worried, use what Gofer said.
 
So i just did this swap this last weekend (took about 2 1/2 days to complete from start to finish), it was a lot of work but not very difficult. I do have one word of advice, watch your rear driver side brake line when drilling for the gas tank bolts from the inside. Ask me how i know haha. Now i just need to upgrade the center and rear diffs and i'll be happy.
 
So i just did this swap this last weekend (took about 2 1/2 days to complete from start to finish), it was a lot of work but not very difficult. I do have one word of advice, watch your rear driver side brake line when drilling for the gas tank bolts from the inside. Ask me how i know haha. Now i just need to upgrade the center and rear diffs and i'll be happy.

nice!

GJ Gus
 
Wasn't the whole body paint-dipped at the factory to avoid rust inside the frame rails? I seem to recall them all having a nice flat gray internally. Any cuts might rust a little bit without paint but that should be it.

Gus, what upgrades are you doing to the differentials? I hope the shop let you use the lifts to do your conversion. Beats the hell out of crawling around on the ground!
 
So I just finished my awd...took about 5 months longer than originally planned but whatever. Anyways, my transfer case is leaking and I really don't have a.clue where. The crack between the case and the trans bell housing underneath smells like fresh gear oil. So is it possible I don't have it on tight enough or leaking from elsewhere?
 
Mine is doing the same thing, its the half-shaft. I replaced the seal 2 times. OEM, once I did it, once the dealer did it, still leaks. The shaft will wear down at the seal after a couple hundred thousand miles, so it wont be a tight seal...
 
Looks like I'm taking off my t case tonight. Fun times.
 
Also, smell the fluid thats leaking, that will tell you real quick. Gear oil smells like shit.
 
Lol I know its something transmission related cause gear oil is quite smelly LOL. I'm trying to figure out where this leak is coming from and the t case is the likely culprit. Sucks. I just got this car back on the road after 7+ months of downtime

Edit: I'm on my phone so sorry in advance if I miss a word or whatnot. Anyways, lets say you are directly underneath the car looking at the t case. The side closest to the passengr side was virtually dry while the underside of the crossmember was covered in oil. I just filled my t case with oil a few days prior and the oil I saw and smelled was fresh. I also thought maybe it was leaking where its connected to the driveshaft, but that wasnt drenched in oil like the tcase was.
 
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