I'm not sure if it is a control arm or trailing arm. Basically it is Rusted and need to know if a shop could and would fix this. It is on drivers side rear on awd 2g.

It'll take some serious patch work but if you can find a reputable shop that can take care of that if you're not a welder I wouldn't recommend starting on something like that. Gotta grind the rust away and make a new mount and weld it in place.

OH damn thats not good im sure it can be done but might take some serious cash money to do it also

That's definetly a structural problem. I wouldn't drive on it if I was you that could end horribly.

Yea I'm not driving it. Any idea of what kind of money we are looking at? I'm going to get an estimate but if anyone has a ballpark answer that would be helpful. It's sad when this happens when the car only has 92k miles

Depending on how bad the metal is at the mounting points, it's easily anywhere from 500 to 1500 as my best guess. I suggest you make friends with someone that can weld.

I am going to go take it somewhere to get an estimate here soon. Thanks for the replies ill post what I find.

it's time to let her go... soo sad

Got quoted $300. We will see how that turns out. And no, it's not time.

goodbuds said:

it's time to let her go... soo sad

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Gee, I wonder why I haven't been able to find a clean AWD 2g.

Makes me sad when people give up on DSMs so quickly.

Is this a black 96 Talon automatic?

Reason I ask is you're local and it looks like my old car...

housegsx said:

Reason I ask is you're local and it looks like my old car...

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My 95 Tsi AWD came from Pennsylvania....and the rust on her isnt pretty Im in San Antonio so its pretty rare to have a rusted car here

Instead of spending all that money patching up a rust bucket,why dont you look for a clean rolling shell and start swapping everything over?

We could also tell you to sell your N/T and get a GST or GSX. To some people, their cars are worth more in gold repaired than at a junkyard.

crimsondragon said:

We could also tell you to sell your N/T and get a GST or GSX. To some people, their cars are worth more in gold repaired than at a junkyard.

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This.

My car almost ended up in the crusher, and instead I did a full resto on it. My car holds a ton of sentimental value. To some people, they feel the same way about theirs.

AK Maniak said:

Gee, I wonder why I haven't been able to find a clean AWD 2g.

Makes me sad when people give up on DSMs so quickly.

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I hear you, bud.

@ Chrispy0530
Tell me about it! My 1G has frame damage and rust but I still love the car even though I cant drive it because its not plate able till its fixed, I'm having trouble deciding whether to pick up the 1G talon shell I've been offered for free and swaping to a n/t AWD.

As long as their's good metal some where neat that spot it can be fixed. not sure many auto shops would take it on for liability reasons but it'ssomethign i wouldn't be affraid to tacklet but would certainly put on the bill that the fab was for off road use only and not for use on public streets and make the owner sign it and give him a copy before the car left my place period. but i'm overly paranoid about the stuff and put that on recipts for all kinds of suspension and frame work on both cars and bikes to cover my ass.. but like i said, i good metal guy can do it, it' just if there's decent enough metal near by to make it worht the amount of hours (or make it not be too many hours anyway) in order to fix it

when i worked at a local shop that restored old hemi and real track cars with records I rebuilt all sorts of pieces with raw metals because aftermarket panels kill resale value especially at auction where as soe how (and i dont know why) rebuilding the same part with chucks of raw material is acceptable

when I AWD swapped my 2g, from it's long life in the snowy salt covered state of nerbaska i noticed the rear frame strength channel where the rear tank strap mounts go when going AWD was almost gon from rust.. i ground and cut untill i had good thick clean metal and then built it back up from there..keeping track of the oem holes was the only isse but using the old cut out metal as a template i got it good and solid again with the holes in the right spots

Dont be stuped you cant weld that the rust is everywhere get a new subfraim or listen to all the cheep dsmers on here and kill your self and who ever is riding with you its your life not mine

Yea it's black and auto. I'm kind of bummed I bought this, my red gst timing tensioner failed so I was carless, found this and thinking low miles it's got to be decent. I looked it over but it was night and even tho I know to never buy a car at night this one seemed to be somewhat clean. Got it home started checking over everything and came across this...

The original plan was to drive this through the winter while I build the gst then pull this one and build it.

woooop said:

Dont be stuped you cant weld that the rust is everywhere get a new subfraim or listen to all the cheep dsmers on here and kill your self and who ever is riding with you its your life not mine

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I said it could be replaced if there was good metal near by..the further you have to go replacing metal the more expensive. I also just told him why most shops probably wouldn't do it.. I'm well into my 30's for age andhave been wrenching, restoring cars and doing metal fab since high shcool. When done right there's nothing wrong with building/restoring parts with fresh raw steel

if don'e wrong yea it's a death trap, if dorne right it will likely be an improvement over OEM.. it's the difference between having a skilled articifer and a backyard hack doing your work.. Also, it's hardly the "cheap" way out.. it may cost more than a new subframe if the rust is spread too far, may be a lot less if it hasn't. so since i'm the only one saying it's fixable i'll assume you meant me and tell you that yes there's right and wrong ways to do this..apparently you've never seen it done right

woooop said:

Dont be stuped you cant weld that the rust is everywhere get a new subfraim or listen to all the cheep dsmers on here and kill your self and who ever is riding with you its your life not mine

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The trailing arm does not attach to the rear subframe. The trailing arm attaches to the knuckle from the unibody itself. It would be a lot of work but doable. Like Glenn said, he needs to find bare metal under all that rust.

beihl304 said:

Yea it's black and auto.

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Yep... Guarantee it's my old car then. Dude I sold it to was a mute but his brother said he worked at a body shop and was going to fix that before driving it. Guess that didn't happen.

I loved the car, it ran great and was very reliable. I put a lot of maintenance into it when I got it. Unfortunately I sold the car when I found out how bad the suspension was getting. I didn't notice it until I tried to fix the rusty rocker panel.

Good luck with it, the rust definitely needs a lot of attention.