I have pulled engines both with and without transmission and I will say that I much prefer to pull both out at the same time, pulling the engine out without the trans still requires you to unbolt everything transmissions wise.

Also leaving the transmission in while pulling the engine only requires a lot of wrestling with axle on passenger side and it's just a pita with linkage, wires, hoses etc in the way.

My $0.02.

ramsack said:

2 Ton Capacity Heavy Duty Load Leveler

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Sweet! Thanks! ... And out comes the credit card...

I actually have that exact same load leveller. Works nicely. And thanks for the imput. I will for sure just pull both at the same time. Just glad i dont have to worry about something being wrong with it or the transfer case. Now just needing to get it pulled to see how bad the damage is. ;-)

That's when the real fun starts and you can see money go so fast there's a sonic boom...

kccombs said:

1 hour? Are you serious. I could do that with my fwd. I dont think i could with my awd. But ive never done an awd engine pull either. After doing it a couple times i think i could. But hopefully i wont have to since im going with name brand high quality parts.

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Air tools make it very fast if it has been out before and you don't have any seized bolts to deal with. I didn't figure in the time it takes the rad to drain in that hour of course.

I don't even take the wheels off or pull the axles from the hubs. 3 bolts on each side to undo the lower control arms which give you just enough room to get the axles out of the tranny.

Yea, you can get away with that... I pull off the tires mainly for more space to crawl around without whackin myself on stuff.

H@xtGSX said:

Yea, you can get away with that... I pull off the tires mainly for more space to crawl around without whackin myself on stuff.

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Yes. Tires will be the 1st thing to come off then the front axles. Then transfer case and rear axle. It just looks like its going to be alot of work since the car is all stock and well take car of besides the fact that when the engine was rebuilt from the previous owner it wasnt broken in properly. I still to this day dont know why if you put that much wirk into a nice car that you dont fallow simple directions for breaken in a engine. Its as easy as 1 2 3. O well. Thats why it only cost me 500 to buy the car.

Well, hopefully you don't have to re-bore it. Another thing to think about is removing the balance shafts while the motor is out of the car. It's just about impossible to do with the motor in the engine bay. At least consider removing the front balance shaft so you don't have to worry about the B belt breaking and assassinating your timing belt on the way out. I'm going to be pulling the motor out of my GSX next week to put in a new clutch, a new set of axles up front, hammer out a dent in the oil pan, and remove the balance shafts too.

Get this.

Brady BMP 21 Label Printer in case | eBay

We have this at work to label all of our wires/cables, literally THOUSANDS of them. The vinyl labels stick to the wires in the most harsh conditions. This costs around $175 new but is currently at a $25 bid. It will make putting your engine back in MUCH easier.

H@xtGSX said:

Well, hopefully you don't have to re-bore it. Another thing to think about is removing the balance shafts while the motor is out of the car. It's just about impossible to do with the motor in the engine bay. At least consider removing the front balance shaft so you don't have to worry about the B belt breaking and assassinating your timing belt on the way out. I'm going to be pulling the motor out of my GSX next week to put in a new clutch, a new set of axles up front, hammer out a dent in the oil pan, and remove the balance shafts too.

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Is there anything i have to put in to conficate for removing the balance shaft? So therex 1 in front and back of a 7 bolt? Whats that ptos and cons if i do them.

laserspeeddemon said:

Get this.

Brady BMP 21 Label Printer in case | eBay

We have this at work to label all of our wires/cables, literally THOUSANDS of them. The vinyl labels stick to the wires in the most harsh conditions. This costs around $175 new but is currently at a $25 bid. It will make putting your engine back in MUCH easier.

Click to expand...

There is no need to label everything on these engines. Everything is so simple it almost put's itself together, .

kccombs said:

Is there anything i have to put in to conficate for removing the balance shaft? So therex 1 in front and back of a 7 bolt? Whats that ptos and cons if i do them.

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You will use the oem stubby shaft to replace the rear shaft and for the oil pump gear to ride on. The front shaft bearings will need to be rotated to block off the oil holes, and you will need to get the oem rubber coated plug for the hole in the oil pump case.

Main benefits include:

1. Less chance of timing belt failure.
2. Less rotating mass, thus faster acceleration.
3. Having a kickass motor.

Ok great guys. Thanks for the info. Ill have to go search for a kit. If it comes in a kit that is.

kccombs said:

Ok great guys. Thanks for the info. Ill have to go search for a kit. If it comes in a kit that is.

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I wouldn't buy the oem kit, just order the oem stubby shaft and case plug, the kits will have new oem bearings for the front to block off the oil holes. You can just remove the bearing that is in the block already and reinstall it rotated so that it blocks off the oil hole. The kit is usually around 50 dollars, you can get the stubby and plug for around 30. I would go to extreme psi for the parts.

+1 on the load leveler.

A couple small tips. You don't have to fully remove the axles to get the transmissions out. Just unbolt the lower control arms from the body, where the strut fork is bolted to the arm, and the outer tie rod end from the spindle and you will have enough swing from the spindle to get the axle out of the transmissions. Unbolt the A/C compressor from the bracket and leave it pushed in the back so you don't have to worry about charging the A/C. Same goes for the P/S pump, less fluid loss to deal with.

Another tip I would recommend is removing your hood. You'll get pissed at it after you smack your head on it 20 or 30 times during the lift.[/QUOTE]

Definitely recommend removing the hood or you will get pissed at it very quickly. Also removing it all together is a whole lot easier keeping it all together. Also if it is your first time it would be a good idea for you to remove the transfercase then take out engine and transmission. Save you from catching the tail shaft on anything. That would be the easiest for you i would think. But deff all in one is better than separating. Much easier that way for sure.

Had to do a bse after my bs shredded, wasnt that bad since the engine was already out, many vendors have the bse parts youll need. Label things if you arent sure where they go, doesnt hurt especially if your new to this stuff it can make a world of difference even if you use tape and a black marker.

H@xtGSX said:

That's when the real fun starts and you can see money go so fast there's a sonic boom...

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This is true. Out comes the engine from the car and out comes your money from your wallet/bankacoount.

Yes they get exspensive. I found that out on my nt/turbo conversion on my 92. Ive take the 4g63 engines out plenty of times. So im pretty familiar with the wiring and things like that. Thanks for the help. Ill def be doing the bse.

its a lot easier the motr and trans because you know they are bolted up tight together and done right

iugrad92turbo said:

Great thats why were here.

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First time Ive ever seen a positive response on tuners...