The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Car sputters and ive changed everything!!! Someone please help!!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

concept4g63

10+ Year Contributor
184
0
Jul 23, 2010
Queens, New_York
Okay so let me say what happened in the beggining, car was perfectly fine and nothing wrong. then it started sputtering on me or misfireing, whatever it was. I would drive and it would drive fine then feel like I hit a freaking brick wall if I push it, it I let off the throttle and open again itll drive, it would get worse here and there, on the highway ill drive and I would drive amd itll sputter and it just keeps popping amd sometimes fire comes out the exhaust. Then out of no wherw it didnt start 3 times, I gave it time amd it started after a while, or after some cranking. Then finally it never started and gave up on me for a whileeeeeee, i changed my coils, spark plugs, I put a new 255 pump, and re wired it, put on a fpr set to 37.5, bought new intercooler piping and fixed all boost leaks, put a new t.b, and tried a new ecu. After all that it starts again. got an oil pressure gauge and is around 2.0 at idle, seems okay, got an aem wideband gauge and reads 10 or just blank because it goes past. car is so damn rich amd i think there might be a light tint of blue in it, idk if its me, im scared its a blown h.g. if I open throttle itll rev fine or sometimes sounds like itll sound like it chokes. I drove it and dives okay but till feel like it hits fuel cut or something around 2 or 3 thousand, please someone tell me what it can beeeeeeeeeeeeee, many dsmers cant seem to help
 
Okay so let me say what happened in the beggining, car was perfectly fine and nothing wrong. then it started sputtering on me or misfireing, whatever it was. I would drive and it would drive fine then feel like I hit a freaking brick wall if I push it, it I let off the throttle and open again itll drive, it would get worse here and there, on the highway ill drive and I would drive amd itll sputter and it just keeps popping amd sometimes fire comes out the exhaust. Then out of no wherw it didnt start 3 times, I gave it time amd it started after a while, or after some cranking. Then finally it never started and gave up on me for a whileeeeeee, i changed my coils, spark plugs, I put a new 255 pump, and re wired it, put on a fpr set to 37.5, bought new intercooler piping and fixed all boost leaks, put a new t.b, and tried a new ecu. After all that it starts again. got an oil pressure gauge and is around 2.0 at idle, seems okay, got an aem wideband gauge and reads 10 or just blank because it goes past. car is so damn rich amd i think there might be a light tint of blue in it, idk if its me, im scared its a blown h.g. if I open throttle itll rev fine or sometimes sounds like itll sound like it chokes. I drove it and dives okay but till feel like it hits fuel cut or something around 2 or 3 thousand, please someone tell me what it can beeeeeeeeeeeeee, many dsmers cant seem to help


I didn't see you mention if you changed your spark plug wires.

I had the same thing happen with my gst, but try the spark plug wires because it would cause the same type of sputtering anytime I tried to push it.

Also do you have any tuning software?

I had the same thing happen , and if it was a blown HG there would be loss in coolant and your oil and coolant would mix. Also do you have signs of over heating?
 
Check the compression, takes 20 min tops.

What size injectors are you running? If they are larger than stock what are you using to compensate for them? Im assuming your on a stock maf if so are you recirculating your BOV?

Boost leak test?

This too^^^^^
 
Try plugs, but make sure you gap them down some. What turbo are you running, how many pounds, injecctors, etc.
 
Do another boost leak test and be really thorough with it.

What wires, plugs, and gap are you running?

And when you set the base pressure with your new regulator did you set it with the vacuum line off?

And why do you only have 2psi of oil pressure?
 
If you can log it, check your coolant temp as well. If it seems way off or is reading -40 it is bad and can cause you to run incredibly rich to the point of a no-start.

This does sound like one bad boost leak too. The 'hitting a brick wall' thing sounds to me like fuel cut. This will happen for many reasons but as stated above do a boost leak test, ohm test your wires and check your spark plug gap.
 
I have a 2g mass on it, non recirc bov, and I have no boost leaks at alllllll guys :(, i have a 650 fic injectors, im using this hks computer software typr yhing that connects to the ecu and its suppose to compenaate the air and fuel mixture to make it run as close as I can to 14.7 but its not happening because that problem, oh amd my spark plugs are some msd wires, I got them from a friend and they were partially used bit I didnt change it because he said it shouldnt be that because they were like new. What spark plugs do you guys recomend

Oh and my plug gap is .026

Oh and my plug gap is .026, also before I put in all these things it was still running the same and hitting that damn wall or sputtereddddd

I have a e3 16g with a boost controller but i turned it all the way down to stock for now.

And alsooooooo sometimes I would try to hold the throttle to like 3 or more and itll just sputter and sounds like i have a subaru
 
Mostly likely its your injectors that are not being compensated for whatever your using to tune which is probably crap. Get an SAFC or invest in DSMlink/ECMlink if you plan to run larger injectors than what you stated. Do not run the car like that unless you feel like dumping more money into it.... Also did you physically do a boost leak check or did you just eye it up? Pressure test the system to 15 or 20 psi. It should drop a 1 psi every minute. My advice to you is to put the stock injectors back on and wait till you have a proper tuning device.
 
Mostly likely its your injectors that are not being compensated for whatever your using to tune which is probably crap. Get an SAFC or invest in DSMlink/ECMlink if you plan to run larger injectors than what you stated. Do not run the car like that unless you feel like dumping more money into it.... Also did you physically do a boost leak check or did you just eye it up? Pressure test the system to 15 or 20 psi. It should drop a 1 psi every minute. My advice to you is to put the stock injectors back on and wait till you have a proper tuning device.

+1^^ also the proper size injectors for a 2g mas on a 1g is 550cc-560cc correct me if i'm wrong guys.Also recirculate your BOV unless you get maf translator you can't go past 3000 rpm because your ecu is freaking out:confused:
 
How many psi did it hold during this boost leak test, and for how long? Also you said that you were tuning for a 14.7, is this at idle and cruise or are you tuning for that at wot also?
 
my 91 talon poped sometimes ran low power like cloged cat then sudenly power! then back to lower power and rich if this sounds the same swap your ignition module this instantly fixed all my problems.
 
So my sputtering problen was my spark plugs, it drives now and not 100% because ill get somd little sputters at times but ill see what it is later, also reason why the car wasnt turning on before was because my injectors werent spraying. Thanks guys for the help

So my sputtering problen was my spark plugs, it drives now and not 100% because ill get somd little sputters at times but ill see what it is later, also reason why the car wasnt turning on before was because my injectors werent spraying. Thanks guys for the help
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So my sputtering problen was my spark plugs, it drives now and not 100% because ill get somd little sputters at times but ill see what it is later, also reason why the car wasnt turning on before was because my injectors werent spraying. Thanks guys for the help

So my sputtering problen was my spark plugs, it drives now and not 100% because ill get somd little sputters at times but ill see what it is later, also reason why the car wasnt turning on before was because my injectors werent spraying. Thanks guys for the help

your small sputtering problem is the vented BOV. with a mass air sensor you need to recirculate the BOV otherwise your losing metered air.
 
your small sputtering problem is the vented BOV. with a mass air sensor you need to recirculate the BOV otherwise your losing metered air.

would this work the same if your slightly on the pedal(cruise) and every once in a while it (sputters) hiccups. Not if i floor it though or a steady increase. Mine was fine till i swapped the plugs( 0.029 crappy autozone coin). def. some puttering at idle...bpr ngk plugs
 
check your coolant temp sensor its the lower one on the fill neck with spade connectors one is vertical and other horizontal if this sensor is join bad/ unplugged can mess with car starting i had one that wire broke it would start and when it did it had weak spark and wouldn't rev over 4k when it hit 4k sounded like launch control eventually it wouldn't rev past idle at all

never mind just read it was ## plugs
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top