I donk think its ## clutch.. i wood check the fuel presurre and the injectors..i had a commend problem like this.. i upgrade my injectors and fix all of my vaccum leaks and the problem went away..

Problem is all that worked fine before the bearing replacement. My car idles fine (a little idle surge) and builds boost fine. I'm not sure if there is a boost leak still because I haven't had time to check. It's just weird that it happens when I push the clutch in it does this even though crankwalk is not happening. I'm praying to god its just a leak somewhere I'd be happy like a fat kid with chocolate cake.

Not saying your wrong, just highly unlikely. What exactly was your car doing?

Also to add to this the car ran perfect at one point with everything that is on it. No upgrades since then. The ecu got burnt up from a shorting bcs wire. That was fixed along with some sensors but other then that it was fine. Sat for a while though. Like I said I'm pretty lost!

Same here my injectors where working great before i replace my rods.. it was sitting for about one month then when i started the engine it started making the same symptoms..

my cars symptons where its was hard to start, it had idle surge, had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldnt die, and sometimes it was hard to accerlate once it got to operating temp..

jhonny5 said:

Problem is all that worked fine before the bearing replacement. My car idles fine (a little idle surge) and builds boost fine. I'm not sure if there is a boost leak still because I haven't had time to check. It's just weird that it happens when I push the clutch in it does this even though crankwalk is not happening. I'm praying to god its just a leak somewhere I'd be happy like a fat kid with chocolate cake.

Not saying your wrong, just highly unlikely. What exactly was your car doing?

Also to add to this the car ran perfect at one point with everything that is on it. No upgrades since then. The ecu got burnt up from a shorting bcs wire. That was fixed along with some sensors but other then that it was fine. Sat for a while though. Like I said I'm pretty lost!

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What are your A/F ratios when you let off? you are either getting too much fuel and it is flooding or your AFC has been messed with....too much fuel could be from a few things....leak somewhere, bad ICS, bad TPS...if it is electrical, swap a working part with a friend, if you can, and see if that fixes it. Check your A/F with a meter and see if it is running rich due to leaks or something electrical. Post results when you have them.

hypergenesis said:

Incorrect its left turns not right.


Listen go and drive when you shift and change from your gear to neutral don't use the clutch just slowly let off the gas and slowly pull it to neutral if your car still dies its not clutch related.

If it doesn't die start checking for play in your harmonic balanced you may have crank walk. Same thing just happened to my 2g.


The information for testing it was not created by me someone posted a link I can't find since I'm on my phone. Credits given where its due.


Armin

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I agree with hypergenesis i would try this first especially since you are saying that everything worked fine before the thrust bearing replacement.

@ suprasalas my car starts fine, has a little idle surge, but doesn't have acceleration problems. Only symptoms are idle surge, Rpms lower with clutch in, and Rpms drop (like you turned the key off) in between shifts. So I'm doubting injectors are to blame.

@ Cliffkemp
I will let you know as soon as I can. Mechanic still has it at this point. When I checked last time a/f was fine untill I hit about 4grand then the numbers went crazy like 40's I think my meters ####ed up because it would die at that rich haha

jhonny5 said:

@ suprasalas my car starts fine, has a little idle surge, but doesn't have acceleration problems. Only symptoms are idle surge, Rpms lower with clutch in, and Rpms drop (like you turned the key off) in between shifts. So I'm doubting injectors are to blame.

@ Cliffkemp
I will let you know as soon as I can. Mechanic still has it at this point. When I checked last time a/f was fine untill I hit about 4grand then the numbers went crazy like 40's I think my meters ####ed up because it would die at that rich haha

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Try the Clutch thing as well before you start taking things apart.

But its weird for the car to drown the engine in fuel after 4k. And 40 means it ran RIDICULOUSLY RICH if thats the AFR your talking about. Also Take a sharp left turn and see if the car dies.

Oh one more thing I noticed when my car started to crankwalk. Does it take more throttle to make your car go at the same speed?

Armin

Will do.

My meters messed up I'm pretty sure it's not running that rich at all your car wouldn't run haha

I'm going to try those things next week I just took vacation today and am leaving Florida for a few days.

I would say start off with a boost leak test

Ok, so I am back from vacation and have driven car. @ hypergenesis: car dies when in boost and I shift. I tried pulling it out of gear with no clutch and it did not die although a couple times it did which kind of threw my theory off. Crank walk is still not likely to be the case because the end play is minimal as the bearing was replaced. The crankshaft had minimal wear on it but mechanic said he doesn't believe it to be causing such hard symptoms. Although it is not totally ruled out. That I want to be the lasstttt thing I have to replace. I'm looking for some possible sensors and their respective tests that would have anything to do with this problem.

Thanks,
Again guys I really really appreciate all the advice.

P.s. Still have not completed boost leak test will try it tomorrow.

so did you ever find out what was wrong??

Have you check to see if your BOV is bad, leaking, or stuck open? A little idle surge is something that needs to be addressed. Theses cars can be vary touchy with boost leaks when they have a MAF.

Since you already checked for leaks, I'd start by resetting the base idle to stock plus a few hundred RPM's to compensate for the lightened flywheel. I have mine set to around 950, as it used to want to die out between shifts. I'm running a Cromoly flywheel....so yours is even lighter.

The idle surge also should be addressed. Check the IAC out. With a surge like that the computer is always searching and trying to hit a target idle speed.

Double check for vacuum leaks. Sometimes those can be difficult to find.

Shockracer is right, MAF cars are incredibly sensitive to the slightest changes.... which is why Speed Density on a boosted car is so ideal.

I will try all the things you guys are suggesting, thanks. The thing about the idle surge is that it comes and goes . It's there sometimes hot or cold. It's really messing with me! The same with dying between shifts, sometimes the car catches and holds the idle and sometimes not.

What is the test for the iac? The iac is that 6 pin connected black thing kinda under the throttle body right? If I remember right it's the resistance checks on the pins. Should be around 30-35 ? Correct me if I'm wrong

Thanks!

jhonny5 said:

What is the test for the iac? The iac is that 6 pin connected black thing kinda under the throttle body right? If I remember right it's the resistance checks on the pins. Should be around 30-35 ? Correct me if I'm wrong

Thanks!

Click to expand...

You are correct.

Thanks I will test that tonight

Is it 1-2 2-3 3-4 4-5 & 5-6 or what is the testing order exactly?

Iac & tps sensors both good. I'm lost

1+2, 2+3,4+5, 5+6

you can also check the transmission bolts that hold the tranny to the motor. I know i got my car back and at one point while doing a couple odds and ends in my garage while trying to pull it out it would stall with just engauging the clutch. Hope this helps you out

sounds like that bearing is sticking especially since you didnt have the problem till you replaced it . other wise its something you didnt hook back up .

so did u ever find out what it was?

Not yet unfortunately. I tightened up all my couplers and that made my spool time quicker but didn't fix the other problems. I have a shitty coupler on my intercooler that needs replaced. Doesn't look to be the culprit tho. Also idk if this has anything to do with it but the hose going from the intake to the valve cover was coming unsealed so I re did it. Need to check for proper seal later today.

What is the proper operation of the isc if I were to turn the key and watch the plunger? Vibrate and move a little or how exactly should it go? The ohms look ok 40 give or take 1-2 ohms across the coils. I read that ohms can be ok but the plunger action may be off.

Thanks again guys hopefully I come across a quick fix.

If possible, could someone remove theirs and see what it does when the key is switched on and off to acc. That would be a great help!

Again, thanks

####! I have crank walk.. I can see the crank move like a bi***! I am heartbroken.

There is a shop that will put a new crank and bearing in for a little under 600$. IF I take the engine out #### me thanks anyways guys..

How hard is it to take the engine out?

####! I have crank walk.. I can see the crank move like a bi***! I am heartbroken.

There is a shop that will put a new crank and bearing in for a little under 600$. IF I take the engine out #### me thanks anyways guys..

How hard is it to take the engine out? As far as tools needed and time wise?

dont take it so hard man if you do everything your self youll learn alot man.. and save alot money to man..
well tools most that i use was a 10mm 12mm 14mm and mybe a 16mm.. its not alot of time if you put your mine to it ill say about 5 to 7 hour(not to sure) if its your first time taking it out.. theres a guy on youtube that show you how pull your 7 bolt out..

Is there any thing special I need to remember when taking the engine out/ putting new crank in? My crank was undersized probably because of previous wear and the same stock bearing was put in when I had to get it replaced which may be part of the reason why it moves so much idk. I know bearing placement is difficult (so I've heard) whats the whole deal with that ? also, is around 600$ a lot for new crank bearing, honing and labor?

ide find you a 6 bolt motor out of a 1g ,they dont have that problem. im not sure if there is a way to stop it from happening again besides trying not to mash on the clutch as hard. im sure it can be shimmed or a problem solver bearing may be available. p.s .do it yourself you'll be glad you gained the know how. get the haynes manual,you tube videos whatever it takes we are here to help btw so just take it slow and steady you'll be fine.