I know ill get flammed for this but i always use the cheapest filter i can find. I put a mobil 1 filter on my car and it started lifter ticking like crazy. Tried it for a week went and changed filter to a cheap one (valucraft) tick went away instantly. I think the good filter had to much restricrion for idle.

No K&N is certainly not the best. Go to Napa and get one of these Wix 51381, or NAPA 21381 like Calan said. Yes it's for a 6-bolt, but it will work find on 2g's also.

what bad can come out of higher oil pressure than normal?

brngrhd said:

not knocking the test but is one test the end all be all of oils and 4g's?

Click to expand...

It is when it's from Forced Performance.

There are other documents and tests floating around on the subject as well. But you only have to read the labels on the oil these days for verification of what they found.

brian102 said:

I think the good filter had to much restricrion for idle.

Click to expand...

Yep... because it is filtering out less crap (less surface area), the cheap filter has less restriction.

Fix the lifter tick at the source instead of running a cheap filter. Run a Wix...they are proven.

90 Talon AWD said:

what bad can come out of higher oil pressure than normal?

Click to expand...

Blowing oil out seals such as the main seals, turbo seals, camshaft seals, etc.

wow that FP article was very intresting and helpful. My new todo list is:
1.try new gauge (analog)
2.Definatly switch to race oil
3.port the relief asap

Thanks so much for all that info guys.

Porting the ofh is deffinately the way to go. Just need a good vacume, dremmel, and a new ofh gasket. Pretty simple in my book and beats pulling the head for the feed location porting. Great article link also on the oils!

Considering this article is still pretty recent, I figured I would post up with a before and after of porting my oil relief valve on my freshly built 6 bolt. Following the build, I would see around 105 psi upon cold start-up, and between 50 and 60 psi warmed up idling high around 2500 rpms (drive belts and harmonic balancer were off, and of course my balance shafts are gone. I am using an AEM digital 0-150 psi oil pressure gauge. I do not however have oil pressures at driving conditions because I had parts of the car tore down when I installed my oil pressure gauge that prevented me from driving it. I do have a feeling that high oil pressure is causing a slight puff of smoke immediately after getting into 3 or 4 lbs of boost that I have been experiencing.

I have just removed the OFH, and hopefully in a few days will have everything ported, cleaned, and nearly reinstalled to check the results.

Once completing the port job, I was not totally satisfied with the results. I was no longer getting a puff of smoke from the exhaust after hitting 3 or 4 lbs of boost, but I would still go over 100 psi around 5000 rpms or so. I believe I saw as much as 110 psi. So I tore down everything and ported once again, I took a lot more material off this time, of course being careful not to open it up too much in the direction of the relief piston. Everything is back together after porting for a second time, but I am not quite ready to start driving it yet, I will have driving results along with a few pictures posted sometime next weekend.

We're you able to figure out your high oil pressure issue? I am having the same problem with my new engine (50 miles). 1k Idle I'm at around 35psi, cruising is at 90psi. It actually holds at 90psi from 3k-5.5k, so the porting job I did on the OFH seems to be working somewhat. Not sure what else I can try besides porting the OFH more.

6 bolt swap, BS Elimination, moderate port to the OFH, all new gaskets, copper spray on the oil pump and OFH gaskets, thread sealant on the OFH plugs and AN Adapters, B&M external oil cooler, electronic autometer oil pressure gauge with remote mounted oil pressure sender. I only used permatex gasket maker on the turbo oil return line gaskets.

Same deal here, new engine, all stock, mains and rods plastiguaged great, BSE kit, revised lifters. I see 90-100 psi on cold start, settling to 25-30 at warm idle. Is that 25-30 psi at idle going to hurt anything? I know porting the OFH will take care of the high pressure at higher rpms but that wont affect the idle pressure right? My engine will probably never see high boost (15psi max) or make big HP numbers so im not going to go for the race oils, although i know about them, its not necessary for my build. can anyone tell me whether 25-30 psi is too much for idle and also what should i shoot for for a max pressure?

No I havent fixed the problem yet. im still expeirencing high oil pressure. i ported a little bit because im nervouse ill port to much. And at full operating temp im seeing 35-40psi and cruising at 2200 rpms im seeing 68-70. So porting the relief did help a little bit. And im still running 10w-30 oil.