I have no idea how to test that. So no i do not. It also has done this on both my 35 and 52 setup. The only thing i havent changed was the wires.

There's a few ways to test this..

one way is to tap like you would for an EGT proble and run a copper line from a compression coupler out to either a 2-3 bar map sensor (more if you have that much pressure to measure) or you can simply run the copped line out a foot or two in the samemanner and then use a double ended compression coupler and tie the end of an oil presure or boost gauge to it.. The only important thing is to keep the heat off the MAP sensor or pressure gauge so it doesn't ruin them..

Glen, something is/was wrong. I've seen the old DOG BOX's talon running 9.0 and 9.1 @160+ with high boost and NO2 with stock ignition.

Magnecore 10.5 wires with bpr7's gapped at .024 and stock ignition at 28psi on pumpgas. I get occasional breakup at around 4200RPM but didn't for a very long time. My plug wires are also almost 10 years old, so I would be the surprised if I need new wires. Been thinking about just making myself a intrepid cop ignition and eventually getting a cdi.

Actually the time to test what works and what doesnt is when you actually have a misfire problem. IE a hard to fire mixture that tests your ignition to its limits.

Of the wires I have tried from best to worst. MSD super conductor. factory mitsu. NGK , Taylor 10mm, Accell, magnecore (good wire but break easy) and a few others I cant remember. I had some misfires last year. installed some new factory mitsu wires and the misfire got much worse. reinstalled the old MSD and lowered the gap a tad. They are expensive and worth every penny.

best plug hands down is BPR7EIX. better than BR8 and a few other plugs I tried.

MSD with BPR7EIX is best combo period for reliable strong spark with stock coils.

What is the "EIX" designating at the endd of the plug #? I'll never run bPr's again just because of the inherrant hot spot they have built into them and that i've seen the results on expensive aftermarket knock monitoring device i run. Not that there's anything else wrong with the protruded electrode as they do make for a better ignition of the gas/air mix, but i'd rather side gap the plugs and not have the standing out hot spot.

Side gapping has worked well for me on the DSM when i actaully take the time and feel like cutting them to the right gap and then cleanin em off to make sure there's no metal in the engine when i install them.

I should just toss my MSD back in, but after removing it and cleaning up the wiring I don't want to un-loom it all and add the harness back in unless absolutely necessary. I've been trying to decide wether i'm going to benefit more from running sequential injection as far as milage goes compared to if i ran sequential ignition with a good COP setup using some GSXR/CBR coils or something, but if i do that then i need to get a 4 channel J&S ssytem and then were talking a bunch more money again

I've actaully done great by sealing my magnecores back up with a fresh coat of silicone where the boots for teh coil pack plug in go, no arcing since

And like i said, i've had the same magnecores for probably near 10 years now, that's what i call worth the money!

EIX on the bottom, EG in the middle, ES on top

1SLOW93TURBO said:

I've said it a million times... Do not run the BPR plugs run the BR plugs! The center electrode on the BPR plug sticks out further and it causes spark blow out. Every single DSM I have worked on that had this issue, I switched the plugs and it was fixed.

Good for 800awhp:

- Stock coil pack
- Taylor 77232 wires
- NGK BR8ES gapped .019-.022 will work for 95% of all dsmers

I now have a COP setup I'm gonna try but I'm not convinced whereas I've seen too many problems with almost every aftermarket ignition module.

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For anyone interested, I took this advice and switched from BPR7ES to BR6ES (running stock boost ATM) to see if it would help resolve recurring misfires and motor running a little rough. I didn't expect too much from just a change in plugs but it made a very noticeable difference. No misfires at all (that I can detect) and motor runs much smoother. I can't say how much of this improvement is due to the non-projected tip vs the move to a hotter plug but either way I'm very happy with the results.

NOSLO2PT0 said:

Autolites? Man, you really are a cheap bastard!

I ran regular NGK blue wires, and an NGK BUE surface gap plug to 34psi. Good enough for 135mph on my car.

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Autolite 63's are equivalent to NGK's plain jane copper series that DSMers love so much.

Wiseman approved, even.

We use a spark tech cop setup with bkr8eix (iridium) gapped to .16 at 39psi on e98 and works like a charm