Dave Brode Performance what about this plus 1g Eclipse BOV Talon DSM turbo 4g63 Honda civic blow off valve bypass 2g gsx gst | eBay what else would i need?

dsm03 said:

Classified(s) Section.

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This might be a little difficult for him since he's a new member and can't use the classifieds.

mbc? what exactly is this abberviation?

Censley said:

mbc? what exactly is this abberviation?

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Manual boost controller...


He's a noob guys..You need to tell him the abbreviations..

FMIC cheap!
Mitsubishi Eclipse Intercooler/Pipes Turbo

Best route is sell it and get a faster car out of the box. You'll save lots of money and be smog legal.

If I were to do it all over again I would just make sure all your maintainance is done then get a wet nitrous kit for like 300 bucks, then a wideband and ecmlink. then a full exhaust. Keep the stock boost and spray a 75 shot on it and that baby will fly. Then when your really ready to upgrade go with the bigger turbo and an a whole setup fuel system and all the other little bolt on like an intercooler. but seriously I still cant wait to put nitrous on all my dsm's theres no point not to have atleast a 50 shot on race days

dude i live in colorado nobody cares about smog. theres douche bags driving around in chipped Cummins that leave a black cloud for a block just for fun. haha, and you think i should buy an eclipse huh?

If you just want to be faster than your buddies' Hondas, put in a good air intake, get an exhaust and put in a manual boost controller. Turn the boost to 15 and drive the hell out of it.


Greg

I find it funny that everyone is recommending turning up the boost, throwing on a 14b with a 3" turboback which will creep, and nobody has mentioned a FUEL PUMP!

Jon91TSi said:

I find it funny that everyone is recommending turning up the boost, throwing on a 14b with a 3" turboback which will creep, and nobody has mentioned a FUEL PUMP!

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Exactly, like i said, he needs to wait on the 14b. Exhaust is still a good early mod though.



Fuel pump isnt needed yet either. A stock 2g fuel pump with rewire flows 156lph.

Theres a basic equation to decide fuel pump size. You can multiply HP x 0.42 to get lph.

Lets say the t25 makes 250hp max. You still would only need 105lph of fuel pump flow.

Also keep in mind that the OP's fuel pump is probably the OEM unit and 17 years old. Running it at the ragged edge of it's capabilities probably isn't the wisest choice. $80 is cheap insurance. I like to allow some buffer, but that's just my .02. My comment wasn't necessarily directed towards you either.

Ask shortdtp. His doing 10.5 on a t25!!

olddsmer said:

If you just want to be faster than your buddies' Hondas, put in a good air intake, get an exhaust and put in a manual boost controller. Turn the boost to 15 and drive the hell out of it.


Greg

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haha thats what i want right now! but seriously i guess thats where i should start! okay well i guesss its time to start saving up!

big 16g, best bang for the buck.

okay so educate me a little guys....16g and 14b are bigger/better bolt on turbos? i understand most of what your saying as i have been around cars my whole life but i really really want to learn as much as i can from all you guys.

Censley said:

okay so educate me a little guys....16g and 14b are bigger/better bolt on turbos? i understand most of what your saying as i have been around cars my whole life but i really really want to learn as much as i can from all you guys.

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Yes, they are both a pretty substantial improvement over the t25 in power and reliability. But...you cant just bolt a larger turbo on and make anymore power. You will make near the same power but with more lag.

Im the "if it aint broke..." type. Max your current set up first that way you can upgrade slowly later on. If you go straight to the larger turbo then you will need every single supporting mod to properly use your new turbo.

Without those supporting mods you will most likely be slower and could possibly cause harm to your engine.

supermario300hp said:

big 16g, best bang for the buck.

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Not on a stock car its not.

Pwrtrip75 said:

... Buy a base model vette and turbo that... you'll end up spending the same and have twice the car...

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.... So true

Wow this thread is full of hp crazed people! You shouldn't do anything without a wideband and boost gauge. I don't have ECMlink but there are several other threads where respectable members had wished they'd started there.

Do all the free mods then get back at me bruh.

Maintenance then
1000cc injectors
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 400LPH pump
Punishment Front mount kit with TiAL Bov
FP 68hta with an external TiAL MVS Gate
FP 4" Intake pipe with a K&N Filter
3" Downpipe
Thermal R&D Catback with the restriction cut out
Hallman Boost controller
ACT 2100
ACT Chromoly Flywheel
Transmission Differential Upgrade
ECMLink V3 with SD
Innovate MTX-L Wideband

Maybe ARP rod bolts, ARP L19 studs, and an OEM head gasket

Now this will be a fun street car

Sence your awd it is easy to rip on people off the line this should get you started on your base for your set also included estimated pricing.
Maintenance-can't go fast if your car is on a flat bed.Full tune up with timing belt and everything should be around $500 dollars.
Boost gauge and wideband gauge is a must. Price around $100
AWD 3 inch exhaust with 4 inch muffler and no cat if no emissions. Price is around $400
Intake doesn't really matter what one imo.Price from $20-$100
Evo3 16-will spool fast and haul you with about 300whp at about 20psi assuming you have supporting mods.Price around $500
Front mount intercooler with a blow off valve of your choice to support the 16g.Price is about $200-$400 for intercooler kit w/ piping.Bov pricing if you find someone give you a free 1g bov or around $30-$100
Something to tune with like ecm(dsm)link Pricing about $500
Anywhere from 750-1000cc injectors will support.Pricing from $150-$350
Fuel pump- I would recomend just going for the walbro 255 you may need a fuel pressure regulator they are about $200 for the kit, but the fuel pumps are all the same price of about $90.
You can make more power with this setup if you choose different fuel types like E85 or race gas.
And all other extra stuff cams, head studs, weight reduction, b/s delete, and a/c delete all extra stuff depending on what your goals are and how much money you wanna spend and horsepower you wanna make.Trust me 300hp is alot and a good base start off with.I would make sure your motor is good shape before trying to go for more, such as forged internals.I hope everyone gets a peice of mind from this as what parts to get and what to exspect.

ECMlink lite, then bov. Two best first mods.

rEclipserGST said:

As much as you would spend on a complete exhaust setup, you could have a nice 14b with a 1g bov kicking you back.

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^^ FOR SURE i got a magnaflow welded on the back and it sounds great not riced out but can hear it

SOADweskey said:

If I was starting all over again I would say the best upgrade is to sell the car and get a used Z06. It will save you money in the long run.

Either that or get the 1G blow off valve or do all the proper maintenance.

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I think this is very untrue! Tender love is the best thing for them! But after that I would get a e3 16g turbo. Best bolt on and thing I did to the car other than the standalone ecm.

SOADweskey said:

If I was starting all over again I would say the best upgrade is to sell the car and get a used Z06. It will save you money in the long run.

Either that or get the 1G blow off valve or do all the proper maintenance.

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I think its more fun to beat a $80,000 z06 in my crapbox 1g.The look on there face is priceless.