The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

clutch problems

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Abe'sGST

10+ Year Contributor
734
2
Aug 27, 2011
Goldsboro, North_Carolina
on my 95 gst, every since i got it there has been quite a bit more clutch play than it should have, and when i shifted it went into gear pretty good, not as smooth as it could though. Now that it has been getting colder, (for some reason) it gets harder to shift and i have to sometimes press the clutch 2 times. I have bleed the clutch 2 times and had very little to no air in the lines. What gets me is that in the morning when its much colder it get harder to shift but once i go to lunch around midday it shifts pretty good:banghead:...any solutions as to what i should look for would be really appreciated
 
I would start with a tranny fluid drain and refill with new. IMO if it was the clutch it would be constant. Because its a mechanical part if its broke or worn out when its cold it would still be broke and worn out when its warm. How olds the clutch??? Whats the pedal feel like and where does the clutch fully engage??? :laser:
 
If you keep getting air in the lines, it's going to be causing problems.
 
I would start with a tranny fluid drain and refill with new. IMO if it was the clutch it would be constant. Because its a mechanical part if its broke or worn out when its cold it would still be broke and worn out when its warm. How olds the clutch??? Whats the pedal feel like and where does the clutch fully engage??? :laser:

i know, that's whats weird about it LOL...when i bought the car the delaer gave me the previous owner's phone number, when i talked to him he told me that the clutch was replaced back in march, if he wasn't blowing smoke imma say the clutch is 9 months old

If you keep getting air in the lines, it's going to be causing problems.

i know, it feels like it has air in it since there is more clutch play than it should have, but i bled the lines out twice, it seemed to help but still not good enough
 
You may know this already, but when you bleed the clutch, have someone else pump the pedal while you keep the reservoir full. If bubbles sneak in itll cause problems with the different temps (having diff pressures n density) but air didn't be in there anyway. (i could be wrong about everything... But I have read about using a partner to help LOL)

But now that I think about it... Check your master and slave cylinders. If you have to "double clutch" to get engagement, one of those isn't doing its job correctly if you have "very little to no"air in the system. I hope it fixes up for ya.
 
You may know this already, but when you bleed the clutch, have someone else pump the pedal while you keep the reservoir full. If bubbles sneak in itll cause problems with the different temps (having diff pressures n density) but air didn't be in there anyway. (i could be wrong about everything... But I have read about using a partner to help LOL)

But now that I think about it... Check your master and slave cylinders. If you have to "double clutch" to get engagement, one of those isn't doing its job correctly if you have "very little to no"air in the system. I hope it fixes up for ya.

yea bro, i had my friend help me out both times, and it did feel better but still when it gets really cold it seems to be a pain in the a** to just drive to work :banghead:...i made the thread to see if anyone else has had this problem so i can know where to start
 
Is the pedal height and freeplay correct? If not, adjust it. If so, I would try to gravity bleed it. Pull the cap off the clutch master cylinder, open the bleeder on the slave cylinder, and add fluid to the master cylinder as needed to keep it full. Then just close off the bleeder and top off the fluid. Good luck.:)
 
Did you properly adjust your clutch at the master cylinder?

hmm no bro, how would i do that?

Is the pedal height and freeplay correct? If not, adjust it. If so, I would try to gravity bleed it. Pull the cap off the clutch master cylinder, open the bleeder on the slave cylinder, and add fluid to the master cylinder as needed to keep it full. Then just close off the bleeder and top off the fluid. Good luck.:)

the pedal height seems a little high but not too much, and the play is a little more the the excessive side. ill try to adjust, how though? LOL
 
ok, im going to adjust it next time i get a chance...also i didn't drive my car for 2 days and i just took it out, it's real cold tonight, the clutch felt hard to press for some reason, after like 10 min. of driving it went back to normal? LOL any thoughts?
 
You've gotta realize that the fluid in the hydraulic system is affected by temperature, too. My clutch acts 'stiff' until it's been driven a bit after a cold start.
 
I had a similar problem with my car. for a few days it was becoming hard to shift. then the other morning the arm for the throwout bearing snapped in half. so the previous days when it was becoming hard to shift the arm was slowly starting to bend.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top