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Clutch advice and information

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j_biggz

10+ Year Contributor
287
2
Feb 6, 2011
Vancouver, Washington
Seems like everything I search isnt bringing up what Im looking for. My personal car is a 95 tsi awd but my wifes car is a 420a eclipse. I know a lot about the 4g63 platform but not so much with the 420a. My question is would her 420a be a 7 bolt? Or is it completely different? Her clutch is ready to be replaced and I would like to do the shift fork and pivot ball as well. Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
 
The 420a's don't follow the same modding steps as the 4G63 with the 6-bolt or 7-bolt parts. They are a completely different engine all together.

I do know that the 420a 5-speed transmissions are touchy to what gear oil you use. I would go to a Chrysler or Mitsu dealer and buy the proper fluid to prolong the life of the transmission.
 
Peromance wise I'm keeping it stock but a new clutch is in order and I would like to go a little better than oem. Gets a little grind on second and so I want to replace the shift fork and pivot ball also. I know it helps with the turbo models. So where can I find a good clutch for a 420a?
 
The dealership should have the clutch fork and pivot ball. I was not talking about performance for the fluid. I'm talking about how some people get issues with good transmissions in the NT 2G's from not using the specified fluid. As for the power and torque of the 420a a stock clutch and pressure plate is all you will need for a long lasting setup.

Grinding in the trans when you are shifting could be from poor clutch engagement. Have you inspected the master cyl and the slave cyl. When you replace the clutch make sure you replace and fully bleed the clutch hydraulic system. If your new clutch is installed correctly and the hydraulic system is perfect and you still have a grind then its possibly an issue that could be internal damage.
 
The N/T DSM's (420A motors) have a modular clutch setup, meaning the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are all riveted together as one part and don't bolt directly to the crank. The F1 Racing clutch (eBay 2100 equivalent) is a modular clutch so it will go directly in place of the stock one without changing anything in your setup. If you decide you want to go with the ACT 2100 for quality/proven parts then you'll have to change things up a bit because its a non-modular clutch. You'll have to get a separate flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and (8) flywheel bolts part # 6503464.

Here's another good read that I found when doing some research on the N/T clutch setup.
The F1 Racing clutch comes with a replacement TOB too, which is one last thing you'll have to worry about getting. I used this tech article when I replaced my N/T modular clutch and everything worked out fine, surprisingly, even though I was "winging" it. :D
Its also a bit frustrating wrenching on the N/T because the bolt sizes that we're used to with our 4g63 equipped DSM's are 10/12/14/17mm, where as I was running into 10/13/15/18mm sizes on the N/T so a COMPLETE set of combo wrenches/sockets are necessary.

:dsm:
 
Grinding in the trans when you are shifting could be from poor clutch engagement. Have you inspected the master cyl and the slave cyl. When you replace the clutch make sure you replace and fully bleed the clutch hydraulic system. If your new clutch is installed correctly and the hydraulic system is perfect and you still have a grind then its possibly an issue that could be internal damage.

I haven't checked the master and slave but I will make that a priority tomorrow after work and will get back to you on that. I plan on using everything new that way I know it will last and it will be oem so I can count on it. Thank you for your info.

The N/T DSM's (420A motors) have a modular clutch setup, meaning the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are all riveted together as one part and don't bolt directly to the crank. The F1 Racing clutch (eBay 2100 equivalent) is a modular clutch so it will go directly in place of the stock one without changing anything in your setup. If you decide you want to go with the ACT 2100 for quality/proven parts then you'll have to change things up a bit because its a non-modular clutch. You'll have to get a separate flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and (8) flywheel bolts part # 6503464.

Here's another good read that I found when doing some research on the N/T clutch setup.
The F1 Racing clutch comes with a replacement TOB too, which is one last thing you'll have to worry about getting. I used this tech article when I replaced my N/T modular clutch and everything worked out fine, surprisingly, even though I was "winging" it. :D
Its also a bit frustrating wrenching on the N/T because the bolt sizes that we're used to with our 4g63 equipped DSM's are 10/12/14/17mm, where as I was running into 10/13/15/18mm sizes on the N/T so a COMPLETE set of combo wrenches/sockets are necessary.

:dsm:

Thank you for all the good info and it was very helpful. I am more geared toward our 4g63s but I still love all DSM's and will learn about these now. I think for her stock besides cosmetic mods I will stick with a modular clutch setup and probably go with the f1 although I will look into stock replacement. I appreciate all the info guys.
 
The deciding factor for me to go with the modular clutch, vise the non-modular, was cost and ease of installation. Running a non-modular clutch (like our 4g63 DSMs have) requires you to buy a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and the longer flywheel bolts. A modular setup is a one stop shop because everything is riveted together which makes it cheaper and an easier removal/install.

It wasn't too hard of a decision to make deciding between the F1 ebay setup and an OE replacement from the local auto parts store either. Surprisingly, all the N/T DSMers had nothing but good things to say about that F1 clutch and it was cheaper than the Auto Zone special, that and its blue which adds a few WHP. ;)

Take the removal and installation one bolt at a time and if you run into any issues just post up, I just did this a few months ago and it wasn't that bad. The hardest part was dropping/installing the trans since it just drops off the block once its completely un-bolted, definitely need a few jacks under there or a DSM buddy helping.

:dsm:
 
As an FYI, here are the part numbers for the clutch fork, and clutch fork pivot ball for the NV T350 transmission.

1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS/GS 420A FWD Non-Turbo 5-speed with New Venture NV-T350 trans:

Clutch fork w/ clip and pivot ball:
M04796665 (mitsubishi part number) or 4796665 (MOPAR part number).

Throwout Bearing:
M04670026AB (mitsubishi part number) or 4670026AB (MOPAR part number).

The clutch fork is around $15.00 cheaper from a MOPAR dealer ($~$42 @ Mits vs. $28 @ MOPAR).
The throwout bearing is around $16.00 cheaper from a MOPAR dealer ($~$48 @ Mits vs. $34 @ MOPAR).

Also, there is no way I can come close to matching this guys pricing on a modular clutch; especially for a no-name Ebay clutch, but holy cow is it cheap! $219.99 shipped! ECLIPSE TALON LASER NEON 420A STAGE 1 RACING CLUTCH KIT | eBay

Most of my performance level clutches with a 2200# pressure plate and custom disk on a modular setup are around $520 and up, but mine are also rated for around 400ft/lb torque and higher.

As for other options, you could always look into finding a PT cruiser high-capacity modular clutch (old version was self adjusting - 4668555AH/ new version is non-self adjusting - 05106023AA), or use a modular unit from a 2003 2.7 Dodge Stratus R/T with matching throwout bearing (if it is included in the kit). These range from $250-350 depending on the PT cruiser hi-cap vs. the Stratus R/T unit. The Stratus unit is a non-self adjusting modular clutch assembly. These units are rated for at least 200 ft/lbs torque as the Stratus R/T motor makes 190TQ in stock trim.

Here is a link with further details of what I am talking about:
www.neons.org • View topic - Which PT Clutch Part numbers
www.neons.org • View topic - Pt Clutch / "Mopar High Torque"

The stock 420A found in the 2G Eclipse is the ECC platform, and its ratings are below:
Specifications:
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Camshaft Configuration: DOHC
Displacement: 1996 cc (121.8 CID)
Power: 150 hp (110 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 130 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
Rev-Limiter: 7200 RPM


So, any of the aformentioned clutches (the two high capacity OEM ones I posted for the PT Cruiser or the Stratus 2.7L R/T are rated for over 200TQ), or the stock clutch Part Number # 4670116AB is ~$313.00 from MOPAR (cheaper price than Mitsu), are other quality options if you don't want a race clutch or an Ebay clutch.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The deciding factor for me to go with the modular clutch, vise the non-modular, was cost and ease of installation. Running a non-modular clutch (like our 4g63 DSMs have) requires you to buy a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and the longer flywheel bolts. A modular setup is a one stop shop because everything is riveted together which makes it cheaper and an easier removal/install.

It wasn't too hard of a decision to make deciding between the F1 ebay setup and an OE replacement from the local auto parts store either. Surprisingly, all the N/T DSMers had nothing but good things to say about that F1 clutch and it was cheaper than the Auto Zone special, that and its blue which adds a few WHP. ;)

Take the removal and installation one bolt at a time and if you run into any issues just post up, I just did this a few months ago and it wasn't that bad. The hardest part was dropping/installing the trans since it just drops off the block once its completely un-bolted, definitely need a few jacks under there or a DSM buddy helping.

:dsm:

If i read correctly, you can use a 4g63 clutch kit on a 420a platform by using a 4g63 flywheel, pressure plate, an longer bolts?
 
If i read correctly, you can use a 4g63 clutch kit on a 420a platform by using a 4g63 flywheel, pressure plate, an longer bolts?
No, absolutely not. The crank is completely different, and the transmission is designed to fit a modular clutch assembly specifically for a 420A application.
 
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