im installing my turbo, it has a 4 inch inlet and i need to drive 300 miles to get a tune from english. how should i run this, i will have just put in 1000CC injectors (replacing 450s) and this huge turbo obviously would not fit on the 2g MAF which is a 2 inch, how would i be able to drive with no MAF or if it was unplugged??? i do have DSMLink but im not to good with it. obviously thats why im going to get the tune. help would be appreciated!

oh, and i was planning on just running a filter over the turbo until i had a custom 4 inch intake made. tuning will be speed density once i am there.

Get a reducer coupler and put your old intake on??And i wouldn't put the injectors in unless your gonna atleast compensate for them.The car wont even run.

urbansmoker1 said:

im installing my turbo, it has a 4 inch inlet and i need to drive 300 miles to get a tune from english. how should i run this, i will have just put in 1000CC injectors (replacing 450s) and this huge turbo obviously would not fit on the 2g MAF which is a 2 inch, how would i be able to drive with no MAF or if it was unplugged??? i do have DSMLink but im not to good with it. obviously thats why im going to get the tune. help would be appreciated!

oh, and i was planning on just running a filter over the turbo until i had a custom 4 inch intake made. tuning will be speed density once i am there.

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Have you done any reading on speed density/ have everything needed to run speed density installed? If not just buy a reducer coupler to fit up your previous intake like stated bove. If everything is installed you should start reading reading reading and just setup a very basic tune to get you to English. There is alot of useful information on ecmlinks site and forum. Good luck

2G MAS's are not 2", they're a 4" oval.

Buy a FP intake...it's 4" round at the turbo end, 4" oval at the MAS end.

JusMX141 said:

2G MAS's are not 2", they're a 4" oval.

Buy a FP intake...it's 4" round at the turbo end, 4" oval at the MAS end.

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im going to speed density as soon as i go to english, so i wanted to know how i would get there on no FP intake.... wasnt looking to spend money on an intake i wont need, cause i wanted a custom 4 inch circular intake... or do i just have to suck it up? oh and i ment 2 inch inlet on the stock intake but i need the MAF obviously til i am at english

spooling 1g said:

Get a reducer coupler and put your old intake on??And i wouldn't put the injectors in unless your gonna atleast compensate for them.The car wont even run.

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ECMLink has sugguested deadtimes and global fule % that i can put in to have the injectors run fine. so i dont think that should be a problem. and yeah im pretty sure i have everything for SD, i have a 4 bar OEM MAP sensor, and i have IAT as well... that should be the only sensors i need?

i plan to weld a bung for the IAT right after my BOV on the TB wlbow (VRSF TB elbow is kinda long)

You could rig something up or like Justin said, The FP intake fits perfect for your setup.

Or you could buy a cheap one from ebay for like 55 bucks.

white92talontsi said:

You could rig something up or like Justin said, The FP intake fits perfect for your setup.

Or you could buy a cheap one from ebay for like 55 bucks.

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FP intake is 75 if i was gonna do anything.... am i stuck with this being my only option... other then putting my baby on a flat bed and towing her down

just found out my damn oil pan is leaking.... the RTV must not have been quite thick enough in some areas...

You could always throw the SD stuff on the car and do a initial tune to run the car there and let them do it.

white92talontsi said:

You could always throw the SD stuff on the car and do a initial tune to run the car there and let them do it.

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better start reading then...... my car wont even go into closed loop right now and i cant figure it out! i have logs!!!?!?! and i posted on the ECM site but uh maybe i can post one here.

mod could move this to a tuning section if desired?

I responded to your thread on the link board earlier , I am sultan.of.swing on there.

From your log I am betting your wideband o2 sensor is going out.

Also read this. It says for a 1g but applies to a 2g as well.

white92talontsi said:

I responded to your thread on the link board earlier , I am sultan.of.swing on there.

From your log I am betting your wideband o2 sensor is going out.

Also read this. It says for a 1g but applies to a 2g as well.

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the wideband isnt even a month old, but it is mounted on the front o2 port.... it couldent go bad that quick?

urbansmoker1 said:

the wideband isnt even a month old, but it is mounted on the front o2 port.... it couldent go bad that quick?

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AS I am sure you know the wideband usually needs to be 12-14" past the turbo.

I run mine just behind the engine at the 2 o clock position.

If you know that the sensor has worked before. and assuming the car is not running too rich then I would try another sensor.

I know when I first looked at your log you CombinedFt was like 28% which means the ECU was adding 28% to the mixture because it was too lean. check for any vacuum leaks and boost leaks. If there are none then I would make sure your global setting is correct for the size injectors that you have.

If the global is correct you may have to add some deadtime to richen up the mixture.

It's very possible that you are so lean that the WB is correct.


I am looking at your log and your settings. Is there a reason why you have not messed with your global?

white92talontsi said:

AS I am sure you know the wideband usually needs to be 12-14" past the turbo.

I run mine just behind the engine at the 2 o clock position.

If you know that the sensor has worked before. and assuming the car is not running too rich then I would try another sensor.

I know when I first looked at your log you CombinedFt was like 28% which means the ECU was adding 28% to the mixture because it was too lean. check for any vacuum leaks and boost leaks. If there are none then I would make sure your global setting is correct for the size injectors that you have.

If the global is correct you may have to add some deadtime to richen up the mixture.

It's very possible that you are so lean that the WB is correct.


I am looking at your log and your settings. Is there a reason why you have not messed with your global?

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according to ECMlink. a 0% global and 0% deadtime is recomended for the stock 450s (this is on stock 450s and the T-25)

when i cruise the WB shows a good 14-15:1 and at WOT it riches out at 10:1... im pretty sure i run rediculesly rich on WOT and LEAN on idle... i could try adding dead time. i played with it a little bit but up to 150usecs it didnt look like it changed the combFT.i think that im going to take out the WB sensor and take a look and see if its caked in carbon cause i am running rich. if you saw the other logs. cruise is just right.

ill take another idle log when i put the big turbo on and the 1000CC injectors but im not sure how things will look when i dont have an intake that fits the turbo at the moment.. the only thing im waiting for the turbo install at this point is my DNP manifold which is 30 miles away and suposed to arrive on monday

You say your sensor is mounted in the front o2 location but you have it assigned in the rear 02 location. Fix that and post another idle log.

Imback said:

You say your sensor is mounted in the front o2 location but you have it assigned in the rear 02 location. Fix that and post another idle log.

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its pinned in the ECU to the rear 02.. its at the same settings that it was when it was working before..
rear 02 has actually been cut... so i dont even have a rear sensor attached. if i assign it to the front on the PC side pin out it doesnt log, if i change it to front o2 on the ecu side it switches vrom .20v to .80v and holds steady not cycling at either of those volts.

urbansmoker1 said:

FP intake is 75

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Actually $79 brand new on FP's website....and the cheapest I've ever seen a used one sell for is $65. They don't lose value. Why the hell wouldn't you buy one for $79, use it for however long you need it, then sell it for $65 when you're done?

I swear sometimes you guys fail to look at the big picture.

JusMX141 said:

Actually $79 brand new on FP's website....and the cheapest I've ever seen a used one sell for is $65. They don't lose value. Why the hell wouldn't you buy one for $79, use it for however long you need it, then sell it for $65 when you're done?

I swear sometimes you guys fail to look at the big picture.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

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wellllllll id have to wait for that crap to ship and im trying to get to english sooner..

You didn't hear this from me, but someone I know would use 4" dryer or HVAC ducting and duct tape. Not the flimsy stuff, the semi-rigid or rigid type.

ol

knochgoon24 said:

You didn't hear this from me, but someone I know would use 4" dryer or HVAC ducting and duct tape. Not the flimsy stuff, the semi-rigid or rigid type.

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to attach the maf to the turbo?!?! wouldent that suck in the honeycombs???

How is it any different than using the FP pipe or stock intake pipe? Neither of those any anything to stop the honeycombs.

knochgoon24 said:

How is it any different than using the FP pipe or stock intake pipe? Neither of those any anything to stop the honeycombs.

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true, i thought distance from the turbine would be a factor...

and this could also be a contributing problem, anyone know how to properly clean one of these without damaging it? i would think alternator cleaner stuff? this is the result of 300 miles in 1 month on the sensor

Wow, your tune sucks. Better change the oil while you're at it- I'm willing to bet your crankcase is full of raw fuel.

You can't effectively clean an o2 sensor. Think of them much like a spark plug- you can clean the area that is directly exposed, but more often than not it doesn't help at all and the sensor should just be replaced.

If it's that new and it's still reading OK, I'd just leave it in. Once the car is tuned better the sensor will clean itself.

That sensor ain't bad. I have seem seem that have a actual caking of them and are still good.

yeah it still reads fine during cruise, i did an oil change not even 100 miles ago and im doing another one in 100 miles this time switching to 20W50 valvoline VR1 race oil right before i go to english

raw fuel.. i think thats a little excessive. most likely not the case. and this is a new motor with 420 miles on it.. and it hasnt had a tune at all. it is being broke in on the T-25 and 450s with as stock of a tune as possible

i looked under my car and it looks like this thing is squirting oil all over my sub frame and onto my radiator.. its not alot but i dont think something is right about this... does it look right to you?