ECM Link!
Wise choice on the 1g BOV
Also Forced Performance Exaust manifold is a nice choice also. They have a black friday sale.
Best of luck to you DSM'r

evan1170 said:

^gram light 57c's? correct me if I'm wrong. super clean though! I'm pulling for reflashing your stock ecu, you already have a 99, you can either buy the software or just get it tuned somewhere for around 200$ get a test pipe though

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Yep, they are 57c wheels. Good eye.

blazin_teg said:

I just installed a ported 68hta on my car a few days ago. I really like it. I'm still running wastegate boost so I'm only at 10 psi now. When I get an aem map sensor I'll turn it up as I will be using ecmlink for boost control along with their IR boost solenoid. I would definitely suggest ecmlink. That was the very first mod I got for my 99 gsx. So it will grow with your performance. Plus you get all the good stuff like antilag, no lift to shift, ecu inputs, and ability to disable commonly removed sensors like egr, and evap stuff. I went 68hta, extreme psi 16g install kit, FP cast manifold, Punishment Racing fmic and mild steel o2 housing, FP 4inch intake, FIC 850s, Fuel Lab afpr kit, and the free fuel pump FP is giving away with new turbo purchases. Still on stock clutch and exhaust for now. Tax return should take care of that. ecmlink all the way!

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Does that Punishment Racing FMIC fit without needing to trim the crash bar or fan? I couldn't find any info about that on their website.

jason_gsx said:

Yep, they are 57c wheels. Good eye.



Does that Punishment Racing FMIC fit without needing to trim the crash bar or fan? I couldn't find any info about that on their website.

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Fan should be fine Most fmics require trimming of the crash beam, I have been running with out a crash beam for years now. The bumper will need trimmed as well.

1997_GSX said:

Fan should be fine Most fmics require trimming of the crash beam, I have been running with out a crash beam for years now. The bumper will need trimmed as well.

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I'm only asking because the ETS 7" FMIC I found doesn't require any trimming of the crash beam. If there is a better one out there that doesn't need to trim the crash beam I'd like to know about it. I haven't been able to find much of anything searching on that topic.

FLASH IT! I put a 99 ECU in my 97 GST and ECUFlash is just as easy to learn as DSMLink.

FMIC: Haven't decided on a brand, would like to keep crash bar in place.- No, just get the cheap $300 giant ebay kit, remove the crash bar, the FMIC actually does a good job if you are in an accident

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I'm sorry but this is wrong.

An intercooler is not a substitute for a crash bar.

The first few milliseconds of a crash are the most important.

Removing the crash bar is a personal decision.

I don't usually point this out either but just as a qualifier....
Yes, I have a bachelors degree in mechanical engineering.

I dont know why so many people insist on having a 4" intake pipe on such a small turbo, but it will work. pretty sure 1000cc FIC's will be WAY to big for the 68hta unless your running E85. I have FIC 850cc's with my 68hta and I hit 400whp and both the turbo and injectors ran out of flow. my 2 cents

Nothing wrong with room to grow, we all know the mod bug we get. It's crazy that we can always want more, most will never need it but meh. Clean GSX.

For a DD.... hell no to coil overs. I had Tein's on my old 2g FWD and it was horrible. No matter how big the bump was you felt it, and if they were bad it sounded like the car wanted to fall apart. Lowering springs sure, but read up on em first.

For tuning, I'd just get a Tactrix 2.0 cable with the Mitsu flash plug which costs just under 200 bucks, download ECUFlash for free, then there's free datalogging software or pay 25 bucks for EVOScan. There's a couple threads on here about flashing a DSM ECU. Ceddy has done a lot of work on the ECU's. There's speed density available, launch control, NLTS, timing maps, fuel maps, injector scaling, Big timing and fuel maps, can delete sensors like O2 & evap so it won't throw codes... whatever you want basically.

There's also a video series on EVOm about using ECUFlash and it's really similar to what our cars have.

1. Maintenance
2. Exhaust
3. Intake
4. clutch. Maybe an ACT 2600 or equivalent.
5. Boost gauge
6. Wideband. I have an LC-1 I log in EVOScan. I just plug the USB into my laptop along with my Tactrix cable.
7. Tuning setup. See above.
8. MBC
9. ARP head studs
10. fuel pump & AFPR. A 255 and AFPR should suit you. Or get an EVO9 pump (~205lph) and your stock FPR should be fine.
11. injectors. 1000cc injectors should give you plenty of fuel.
12. FMIC and BOV. The 1g BOV can hold a lot of boost once the "Dodge Mod" is done. For the FMIC, I think you have a good idea with the ETS 7" kit or the Punishment kit. I think you can even keep the fog lights with the ETS 7" kit.
13. The HTA68 is a great turbo. Expensive, but great. Maybe look into an EVO316g depending on your goals.
14. Cams. if you plan to go with the HTA68, maybe some HKS272's or 264's would help it breathe.

The GSX threw a CEL today driving around so the tuning/logging is definitely top priority now. After doing some research on the DSMLink vs ECUFlash it looks like the only advantage to DSMLink is that there is more support available and you can tune on the fly. I'm going with ECUFlash for now, it seems like the logical choice. The Tactrix 2.0 tool does mention RGB status LEDs in the Technical Details, but it doesn't say what they do. No luck finding an answer searching the forums. Does anyone know?

For a 16g setup is so simple to setup and should put you in the low 300hp mark.A 3 inch exhuast, intake, tuning software, fuel pump and injectors will get you there. I can almost guarantee you will want more horsepower, everyone does.On that note best thing to do is shop smark why buy 750cc injectors when you can get 1000cc?Why not get a 255 fuel pump instead of a evo pump?Why get a fpr and not use stock?Sure money plays a factor but do the math a few chanes will not only save you time and money in future...BUT it will give you room to grow for later and will get more out of it in the long run.Anyways back to the main topic your setup looks good and should get you where you want, That should put you right around the 350whp mark with a good tune.

Maintenance=horsepower / Tune=horsepower / Do it once to it right, shop smart and keep boosting!

Everything sounds good except the K&N. Personally i like the Injen. Im not so convinced on K&N products

I did not see cams on your list, did you do any insight into getting some?

clipto said:

I did not see cams on your list, did you do any insight into getting some?

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Since I'm in CA I'm trying to make sure that any mods that would have to be put back to stock to pass smog are fairly simple. I already plan on switching the intake back to stock to pass the visual inspection. I doubt aftermarket cams would pass smog and it seems like that would be a fair amount of work to change, otherwise I would definitely be considering which cams to buy too.

If your car threw a code, i know EVOScan lets you see what the code is and lets you clear it. Or go to Autozone and they'll scan it.

clipto said:

why buy 750cc injectors when you can get 1000cc?Why not get a 255 fuel pump instead of a evo pump?Why get a fpr and not use stock?
:

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I'm pretty sure he said he wanted 1000cc injectors. Getting an EVO9 pump will allow him to use the stock FPR so he doesn't have to change it back. I'm not sure if he would for emissions, but I figure the more stock it looks and the less you have to change, the better. Plus the EVO9 pump will flow enough fuel for the HTA68 so why spend the money on stuff you don't need...? The setup I have planned for my 99 is a budget build sleeper setup.

1. RVR/ EVO3 intake manifold
2. EVO9 pump
3. Probably a Turbo Lab TD05 bastard 20g
4. stock 1g piping
5. 1g BOV with the Dodge Mod
6. Supra sidemount
7. 3" downpipe with an electronic cutout into a stock catback
8. cams (haven't decided but probably 272 regrinds)
9. Boost and Oil pressure gauges in the Bezel and wideband on the steering column (don't want a pillar pod)
10. 2g head
11. 6 bolt with stock rods on Wossner pistons and BSE, ARP rod bolts & head studs
12. 880cc injectors (might go with 1000cc for E85)
13. ECUFlash and EVOScan for tuning
14. Lightweight flywheel and Exedy clutch

That's all I can think of right now. With the stock catback, the car will be quiet with the cutout closed and appear stock to the average person even if you pop the hood. I don't see why it wouldn't also put down 325-350whp.

FLASH1970 said:

7. 3" downpipe with an electronic cutout into a stock catback
...
That's all I can think of right now. With the stock catback, the car will be quiet with the cutout closed and appear stock to the average person even if you pop the hood. I don't see why it wouldn't also put down 325-350whp.

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That is an interesting idea. Are you planning on reflashing the ECU when you open the exhaust cutout or running the same tune? I'm thinking you'd probably also need an external wastegate because of boost creep when the cutout is closed. Would it run ok with very little back pressure with the exhaust cutout open?