Scratch that irdium spark plugs and get the ngks bpr6es for stock boost, but is i can tell you going to need the ngks bpr7es, you have the flash able ecu or can get dsmlink they bost cost around the same price

For exhaust i would go Ported 2g o2 housing or a 2.5 Megan o2 housing. Megan dp cat eliminating, with a Thermal R&D cat-back exhaust. That is exactly what i have planed for mine.

+1 on that Fp 68hta
You might want to get a Wide band sensor and gauge, and get V3 for engine management, and tuning.

And most important All maintenance.

MBC: Hallman Pro RX - too expensive, build you own. Here's why: building your own boost controller will help you understand how the car works. If you are not able to build your own MBC, get a honda.

Intake: FP AIP /w BOV Return Flange - OK

Air Filter: K&N (/w MAF mount) - OK

BOV: 1g OEM - OK, they can whistle, but they hold boost well. if you buy an aftermarket one make sure to plumb it right, some are set up differently then the 1G stock one, failure to do so will ruin your turbo.

Fuel Pump: Walbro 255 HP - No, get the non HP version

AFPR: Aeromotive "A1000" Complete Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit w/ Gauge - Cheaper ones will work.

Fuel Injectors: 1000 cc (haven't decided on a brand) - FIC

Turbo: FP 68HTA (/w porting) - Excellent.

FMIC: Haven't decided on a brand, would like to keep crash bar in place.- No, just get the cheap $300 giant ebay kit, remove the crash bar, the FMIC actually does a good job if you are in an accident.


Turbo back exhaust: Going with 3" ......... DSM. - Support your local muffler and exhaust shop, have it done locally.


Spark Plugs and Wires: NGK Iridium IX plugs and NGK wires- WRONG, you CANNOT use iridium spark plugs in our cars, this has been gone over a million times in other posts, you need the copper plugs, gap them to .27 and replace them often. Wires are wires

Good input so far. I'm wrapping up all of my maintenance before spending any money on mods, definitely on top of that. Just updated my spark plugs on my list, good to know. Why no to the hp version of the fuel pump? I'll go do some research on DSMlink for the management / tuning now. Please let me know if I'm forgetting any of the bolt-ons.

What kind of boost levels would be reasonable with this setup on 91 octane? I was thinking low 20s but I don't want to push it too hard with stock internals. Thanks guys.

Iceminion is giving horrible advice. You by the sounds of it have a beautiful car if its a 99 and 100% stock. Dont put anything but the best in that thing. Your list looks awesome to me, Probably gotta throw a clutch in there somewhere though!

I have read great things about south bend clutches. They seem to work better than Act. You might want to compare those two with your personal preference,setup and goals.

Alan11 said:

For exhaust i would go Ported 2g o2 housing or a 2.5 Megan o2 housing. Megan dp cat eliminating, with a Thermal R&D cat-back exhaust. That is exactly what i have planed for mine.

+1 on that Fp 68hta
You might want to get a Wide band sensor and gauge, and get V3 for engine management, and tuning.

And most important maintenance.

Click to expand...

Well if you do that remember we live in Cali and need a Cat to pass smog. Call our sponsors and see what they can do I called Mike at S.I.M. and they are building me a 3" down pipe which does not eliminate the cat and the put in a 3" high flow cat. Sometimes you have to think if you want to be installing your stock system just to pass smog People need to remember where the person is located

Glad I don't Emissions... That being said, Ebay exhaust are actually very nice, and sound amazing. NGK coppers, cheap, but our cars LOVE them. MAPerformance has a Fuellab kit for the AFPR, and I like FIC's for Injectors. VRSF has a nice FMIC kit, I would look at Ebay ones again(CXRacing). As far as tuning goes, you should have a flashable ECU like your EVO, but it requires the openport 2.0 cable, not the 1.3(or any variation), though you can log with a 1.3. EVOScan and Ecuflash are used, Ceddy has awesome flashes.

Also make sure that you change all the fluids out incluiding the transfer case and rear end. Making sure all the maintenance is done will make for a more reliable car especially once you add stuff on. You might also want to put new breaks and pads on

One thing is for sure, gauges would do you good if you're changing boost and tuning. So just remember that you'll need something to monitor your engine (Boost Gauge/Wideband O2 gauge/Oil Pressure gauge)

Definitely change spark plugs to Bpr7s and i would also go with a better bov so it won't leak at high boost levels.

potHead4sur said:

Definitely change spark plugs to Bpr7s and i would also go with a better bov so it won't leak at high boost levels.

Click to expand...

Engine management

Guess I'm the only one who's gonna ask but, any pics of this 99 GSX beauty you got?

Also for fuel management, DSMLink V3 hands down.

Chrispy0530 said:

Also for fuel management, DSMLink V3 hands down.

Click to expand...

He has a '99, why not flash it for under $250?

I had the same questions you did when I bought my bone stock 99 GX several years ago, so take a look at my profile to see the path I took based on information gleaned from this site. I have been very pleased with the results. The only thing I would have done different would be to get DSMLink, but that will be done in the near future. I ran a 1G BOV for awhile, but it seemed to leak at over 17 or 18 lbs of boost, so I replaced it. For plugs, just stay with stock NGK BPR6ES. They're fine unless you plan to be running full boost all the time, and who the hell does that? You will also need a boost gauge and a wide band O2 sensor along with DSMLink. Someone else mentioned a clutch upgrade, so factor that in and select a clutch that is consistent with your power goals and how you drive. Do your homework, purchase good quality parts, do it right the first time, be safe, and enjoy your ride.

jb2zero0six5 said:

He has a '99, why not flash it for under $250?

Click to expand...

Everybody likes different cups of tea. Mine happens to be DSMlink. Easy to use and learn, easy to log info, great support from their forums. Great growth too if he ever wants to switch to SD. In my opinion, I think it's better in the long run.

Just my opinion.

mitsukid82 said:

Well if you do that remember we live in Cali and need a Cat to pass smog. Call our sponsors and see what they can do I called Mike at S.I.M. and they are building me a 3" down pipe which does not eliminate the cat and the put in a 3" high flow cat. Sometimes you have to think if you want to be installing your stock system just to pass smog People need to remember where the person is located

Click to expand...

We have inspections here in texas too. Smog test's and all that stupid stuff.
Do i care about them. NO. My car wont pass the emissions test being stock, anyway theres always other ways to pass those tests .

IceMinion said:

Spark Plugs and Wires: NGK Iridium IX plugs and NGK wires- WRONG, you CANNOT use iridium spark plugs in our cars

Click to expand...

You seem to be confusing Iridium with Platinum.

Some fun facts about Iridium:

• Most corrosion-resistant metal known.
  
  
• Densest element on earth.
  
  
• Requires less voltage to achieve the same spark.

One of the downsides to the Iridium plugs is the fine-wire electrode....this makes them foul easier if your tuning is shitty because there is less surface area to the electrode. If you're down for trying $10 plugs and your tune is spot-on, try the Iridiums...but for 99% of us, the standard copper-core plugs at $2.50 a piece are just fine.

Pictures as requested. It was raining the other day and I gave the AWD a thorough testing so it's pretty dirty but the paint is in good shape when it's clean. It does have Gram Lights wheels and upgraded front rotors but no HP mods.

I am getting a boost gauge, probably one of the Autometer 35 psi ones. I'm planning on upgrading the clutch shortly after the HP mods are in. I'll probably go with an aftermarket BOV as well since I'm hearing the 1g can whistle and will have issues if I'm going to be around 20 psi. How much boost would make sense with this set up? Of course I'll have to tune it and make sure it isn't knocking, just looking for a general idea of what range I should be in.

^gram light 57c's? correct me if I'm wrong. super clean though! I'm pulling for reflashing your stock ecu, you already have a 99, you can either buy the software or just get it tuned somewhere for around 200$ get a test pipe though

Wow, she's pretty much a virgin. Not even a drop in suspension. I would just love to find one of those and store it. In a few years, they will barely exist.

Super clean, great find.

nice ride/

Do not think I saw it mentioned anywhere.... but unless you are SURE that it has been done, do a timing belt change. Just so you can have peace of mind. If you dont do it now, you might possibly kiss some upgrade money goodbye in repairs. just a suggestion.

Also, of course along with timing belt change, all other maintenance is up to date.

Car looks great BTW.

Yep, I was pretty excited to find one in such good/stock condition. I am finishing up all of the maintenance this weekend, including changing the timing belt. I'm also ordering the first batch of parts today, starting off with the FP AIP, K&N FIPK, Auto Meter C2 Boost/Vac Gauge 30 In Hg.-Vac./30 psi, Auto Meter Gauge Cup, and Hallman PRO RX MBC.

Next up will be the exhaust system. I think I've decided on going with the Megan SS O2 Housing, Megan Downpipe, RRE High Flow Cat, and Megan CBE. After that will be the fuel system upgrades (including wide band o2) and then finally the ETS 7" FMIC, TiAL 50mm Q Recir BOV, and 68HTA. I'm still trying to decide between the DSMLink vs ECU Flash but I have a month or two before I need to make up my mind on that point, it will probably be done along with the 68HTA install.

I just installed a ported 68hta on my car a few days ago. I really like it. I'm still running wastegate boost so I'm only at 10 psi now. When I get an aem map sensor I'll turn it up as I will be using ecmlink for boost control along with their IR boost solenoid. I would definitely suggest ecmlink. That was the very first mod I got for my 99 gsx. So it will grow with your performance. Plus you get all the good stuff like antilag, no lift to shift, ecu inputs, and ability to disable commonly removed sensors like egr, and evap stuff. I went 68hta, extreme psi 16g install kit, FP cast manifold, Punishment Racing fmic and mild steel o2 housing, FP 4inch intake, FIC 850s, Fuel Lab afpr kit, and the free fuel pump FP is giving away with new turbo purchases. Still on stock clutch and exhaust for now. Tax return should take care of that. ecmlink all the way!