Yes its normal, its the nature of the beast...so is the humming noise coming from the trans on decel.

Yes this is normal but for me was in-tolorable. I now run a quaife LSD and an 100% happy with the result.

I had it welded on my 1g and it had no PS, it sucked real bad in parking lots and at low speed turns it would kind hop or jerk, it was not very enjoyable. But, it did hook a lot better at the track

Great, I haven't done any hard launching yet just normal driving. I did have my ps deleted but that really sucks too so I put the ps back on and was a little better for turning. It just seems like if the e-brake is up while driving or coming to a stop and I do have a humming noise in the bell housing.
Sometime when shift gear, the rpm would want to stay up then falls down after 1-2 sec. But after driving a while then it doesn't do that anymore.
Thanks guys.

There shouldn't be any hanging up, or dragging feeling when you are going in a straight line, forward or back. Only on sharp turns. If your welded center diff is giving you problems in a straight line then something else is wrong.

Colt4G63 also said:

There shouldn't be any hanging up, or dragging feeling when you are going in a straight line, forward or back. Only on sharp turns. If your welded center diff is giving you problems in a straight line then something else is wrong.

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...such as a mismatch between the tranny and transfer case.

jtmcinder said:

...such as a mismatch between the tranny and transfer case.

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...or the rear diff, or tire sizes.

Tire pressure matters a lot too. I run 36 up front and 32 in the back. Skipping on tight corners is normal and be prepared to change out front axles. I've been through 2 driverside fronts and one passenger side front. Launching is smooth and you can tell a huge difference at the track. I picked up a tenth on my 60ft.

The car rolls easily without the steering turned, but, like you've noticed, the car feels like the e-brake on when doing parking lot manuvers.

Thanks for the input. just jerk alot going straight and scraping noise from inside the bellhousing. I haven't even notice any chirp while doing sharp turns or getting out of a parking lot.

99 gst spyder said:

Thanks for the input. just jerk alot going straight and scraping noise from inside the bellhousing. I haven't even notice any chirp while doing sharp turns or getting out of a parking lot.

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That is NOT normal. There is something else wrong with your car. Just as Colt4g63 said, when going in a straight line you should not feel or hear any abnormalities. I suspect your front and rear final ratios are different. A 95-96 transmission MUST be used with a 95-96 x-fer case, same with 97-99. They should not be interchanged. Doing so will cause a difference in front to rear drive ratios. Normally this will cause premature wear of the centre viscous coupling, but since you have welded yours, everything else would wear out instead.. and in a hurry.

eclipsegsx1736 said:

That is NOT normal. There is something else wrong with your car. Just as Colt4g63 said, when going in a straight line you should not feel or hear any abnormalities. I suspect your front and rear final ratios are different. A 95-96 transmission MUST be used with a 95-96 x-fer case, same with 97-99. They should not be interchanged. Doing so will cause a difference in front to rear drive ratios. Normally this will cause premature wear of the centre viscous coupling, but since you have welded yours, everything else would wear out instead.. and in a hurry.

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Well, I had bought the car fully stock. Nothing like that jerking ever did happen when I first bought it. Then comes to clutch upgrade ect.., and with a bad act pressure plate killed my first gear, and now I have order a stage 1.2 economy build from jack transmission with welded center differential, now I'm have this jerk thing, I don't know if it has anything to do with suspension like bad ball joint or bad tie rod or even the drive shaft to the rear.

I'm pretty sure the tranny, transfer and rear are the same as for years.

What's the difference between transfer cases. I know tranny's are 22 spline vs 23.

First off, I have a 91 talon tsi, with 23 spline on the stock tranny, then I order the new tranny with 23 spline also, I couldn't have mismatch the tranny and transfer case.

Alsowhen the e-brake is down, the brake light in the dash is always on, not sure why.

The brake light in the dash stays on because the sensor at the handle isn't fully pushed in. Some adjustment may be required.

It should definitely roll easily in a straight line. Make sure all your tires are the same make/size and even WEAR with a welded center diff. Tire pressures are also very important for smooth shifting.

99 gst spyder said:

Well, I had bought the car fully stock. Nothing like that jerking ever did happen when I first bought it. Then comes to clutch upgrade ect.., and with a bad act pressure plate killed my first gear, and now I have order a stage 1.2 economy build from jack transmission with welded center differential, now I'm have this jerk thing, I don't know if it has anything to do with suspension like bad ball joint or bad tie rod or even the drive shaft to the rear.

I'm pretty sure the tranny, transfer and rear are the same as for years.

What's the difference between transfer cases. I know tranny's are 22 spline vs 23.

First off, I have a 91 talon tsi, with 23 spline on the stock tranny, then I order the new tranny with 23 spline also, I couldn't have mismatch the tranny and transfer case.

Alsowhen the e-brake is down, the brake light in the dash is always on, not sure why.

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My mistake, I saw the 2g Spyder in your avatar and assumed you performed an AWD swap on it, hence the possibility for the incorrect combination of transmission parts. You shouldn't have that issue on a 1g. The different transfer cases in the 1g's will not bolt up as you mentioned, due to the spline count differences.

Also, the brake light will stay illuminated if the brake fluid reservoir is low. The brake light serves as a dual function light (e-brake and low fluid indicator). It could of course also be a malfunction with the e-brake position sensor as mentioned above.

eclipsegsx1736 said:

My mistake, I saw the 2g Spyder in your avatar and assumed you performed an AWD swap on it, hence the possibility for the incorrect combination of transmission parts. You shouldn't have that issue on a 1g. The different transfer cases in the 1g's will not bolt up as you mentioned, due to the spline count differences.

Also, the brake light will stay illuminated if the brake fluid reservoir is low. The brake light serves as a dual function light (e-brake and low fluid indicator). It could of course also be a malfunction with the e-brake position sensor as mentioned above.

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Sorry about the picture avatar. I try changing it but couldn't for some reasons.

I'm not so worried about the brake light, but will try to figure out what's up.

Hello everyone, I had this problem and it turned out to be my front brake calipers were frozen. When I let the car sit over night I guess the pressure would bleed off but after going for a spin they would slowly start to get tighter and tighter... I hope this helps you out.... Check the rears as well..

njdaewoo said:

Hello everyone, I had this problem and it turned out to be my front brake calipers were frozen. When I let the car sit over night I guess the pressure would bleed off but after going for a spin they would slowly start to get tighter and tighter... I hope this helps you out.... Check the rears as well..

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I haven't check the caliper's yet since it's cold outside. I check the brake fluid and it's very low, added some more and that took care of the brake light, but why and how did it get that low all of a sudden?

Drove the car last night and found a weird problem though, going straight, I can feel the car is swirling left to right like the tire's are about to come loose like swirling on icy roads. Last time I install the axels, the end ring doesn't lock itself in and can come out easily enough, can that be the problem.

I can control the jerking problem by balancing my gas pedal but it's still there.

99 gst spyder said:

I haven't check the caliper's yet since it's cold outside. I check the brake fluid and it's very low, added some more and that took care of the brake light, but why and how did it get that low all of a sudden?

Drove the car last night and found a weird problem though, going straight, I can feel the car is swirling left to right like the tire's are about to come loose like swirling on icy roads. Last time I install the axels, the end ring doesn't lock itself in and can come out easily enough, can that be the problem.

I can control the jerking problem by balancing my gas pedal but it's still there.

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Why didn't you get a new lock clips for the axle if you know that there is a problem with it?

99 gst spyder said:

I'm pretty sure the tranny, transfer and rear are the same as for years.

What's the difference between transfer cases. I know tranny's are 22 spline vs 23.

First off, I have a 91 talon tsi, with 23 spline on the stock tranny, then I order the new tranny with 23 spline also, I couldn't have mismatch the tranny and transfer case.

Alsowhen the e-brake is down, the brake light in the dash is always on, not sure why.

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I don't believe a 91 is 23 spline, only some 90 or at least the early 90s are 23 spline. There maybe alignment pin missing if not that's the way a welded center differential work along lack of traction making it into a 4x4, all four wheels spinning at the same time, instead of a AWD, shorter turn radius, etc...

Better to go with a 4 spider center differential.

1gDSM4g63 said:

I don't believe a 91 is 23 spline, only some 90 or at least the early 90s are 23 spline. There maybe alignment pin missing if not that's the way a welded center differential work along lack of traction making it into a 4x4, all four wheels spinning at the same time, instead of a AWD, shorter turn radius, etc...

Better to go with a 4 spider center differential.

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90 and very early 91's came with the 22 spline output shaft, 91+ all came with a 23 spline output shaft.

This is getting confusing. We are talking about the center diff not the front diff right? Or do you have both of them welded?

Mine is a 6 bolt block and I'm guessing its a early 91 b/c late 91 comes with 7 bolt right? So does that make it 22 or 23 spline for my early 6bolt.

When I order my transmission from jack, I ask for 23 spline output shaft. That's what I counted on my stock tranny output shaft before I order. Unless I counted wrong.

I've know all the input shaft from 90-99 has 20 spline on the input shaft, only the output shaft changes, 90's have 22 spline and 91-99 have 23 spline. Correct me if i'm wrong.

So I just got home and check the spline on the stock tranny, it's 23 spline on the output shaft and 20 on the input shaft. I know the only thing left is to check the splines on the new tranny.